Moebius Skipjack

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  • trout
    replied
    Glad you got a solution.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Seems replacing the older Futaba receiver with a newer Hitec receiver solved the problem. This is with the FPV BEC connected.

    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 05-19-2021, 02:57 PM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    RB-I think that's way too big (for home use) and bulky for a sub model and IMO too expensive the ones I am talking about are under a buck (pardon the pun) and if you want the voltage readout-they're under $5



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  • Das Boot
    replied
    May try one of these.
    Amazon.com: Buck Converter 12v to 5v, DROK Voltage Regulator Board DC 6.5-36V 24v Step Down to DC 1.2V-32V 12 v Volt Transformer Reducer 4.5A 75W CC CV Power Supply Module: Home Audio & Theater

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Thanks Bob. Was playing around with things this morning. Might have a fix. Will get back later about it.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Probably just one thing -a new ESC but if you want to try a buck converter, PM me your address-I'll mail you one

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Gato
    Great video-tells all! If you are still on the hunt for a UBEC, I wonder if you could use a buck converter-I use them for accessories]
    Yea thought about those, they have some micro or mini ones. Just wondering how many different things I'd have to buy before I find the one that works, and how many of them will end up in my 'spare parts box'


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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Man I am sorry-when you said you " burnt up two ESCs" my head jumped to twin motors-the diodes wouldn't come into play on a single-it really sounds like it might be a "big Prop" mismatch with the motor or very long leads from the battery to the ESC.(Ron van Sommeren from over in RCG has done a lot of writing on the water hammer type effect of long supply leads and the slow death of model ESCs)

    Please feel free to PM me if you want as not to hijack Ken's thread.
    Last edited by Bob Gato; 05-18-2021, 08:10 AM.

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  • Das Boot
    replied
    Thanks, Bob. What I don't get is I was using a 15 amp ESC then a 40. Both would work, get hot, stop and work again. I imagine it's the thermal SCRAM, but I don't know why. I never ran it full bore. Read your post. I've used diodes countless times to incur voltage drops in ham radio gear, especially the old Heathkit stuff. That's all we used until the surface mount stuff came out.
    Last edited by Das Boot; 05-17-2021, 09:45 PM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Casey-this might help- I use it on my Mark V and I can access 10 amps combined from both ESCs at the same time. I came up with this a few years back-it also keeps my radio running if one side fuse blows. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-Diodes-anyone

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  • Das Boot
    replied
    Originally posted by SubHuman
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qrXxNlTTYKI

    this video outlines what a BEC is and why a lot of people like them versus using the built-in BEC in many speed controllers.

    Bob
    Well hell, that may be why I've burned up 2 ESC's in that fishing boat. That's probably the only one of your video's I haven't watched.
    Last edited by Das Boot; 05-17-2021, 08:09 PM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    LOL Sorry man!!

    Great video-tells all! If you are still on the hunt for a UBEC, I wonder if you could use a buck converter-I use them for accessories-they'll take up to 40 volts and hold it at your setting at least 1.3 volts below the input voltage regardless of changes in input voltage-they are quite cheap...and small. I've bought them for as low as 10 units for $7...dial in the voltage and it just stays and it doesn't waste power as heat. These are 3amps at $4 each-but if you shop around you can do better . https://www.amazon.com/LM2596-Conver...a-754523673785


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    Last edited by Bob Gato; 05-18-2021, 07:08 AM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Good thought Bob. Tried your suggestion, it was actually worse.

    Made a video to show everyone the problem. The stuttering may not be a big deal, I don't like it. I may just not use a BEC and stick to the ESC BEC. As you can see at the end of the video, the current draw is 230ma which the ESC BEC can handle.

    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 05-19-2021, 02:38 PM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Ken just for s's and g's... Try disconnecting the black wire to your ESC from the radio also.. and just leave the signal wire connected you could be getting something trying to find a ground/back feed through the m-tronics ESC... The ESC and radio already have power and ground without that black wire... So they should not need it anyway-just a thought-BG
    Last edited by Bob Gato; 05-17-2021, 04:30 PM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Casey, Bob covers everything as to why using one in the video. The ESC I am using has an output of 1.2 amps. In my testing, with as many things working, running that I could, I measured 0.5 - 0.7 amps drawn from the BEC. So adding a BEC with an output of 3 amps ensures I wouldn't be overtaxing the ESC BEC.

    But, in my setup, the ESC-motor is getting noise from the two BEC's that I tried so far. According to Mtroniks I need to use a opto-isolater that they sell. Can't find it in the US and it's costly to ship it across the pond. This week I'll be trying to add additional caps to the motor to see if the problem clears up. If that doesn't work then may go back to the ESC BEC and not use a dedicated BEC. Or will have to go for another ESC.

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