1/96 Project 1710 Beluga

[HardRock]

Thanks. I'm on it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Free translation of a russian publication:

quote " it was possible to determine the ways of reducing hydrodynamic interference to the work of the SAC at high speeds, as well as to test new methods for calculating propellers (at different times, propellers of different designs were installed on the submarine) " unquote

and if we look at the below scetch it's not so unrealistic me think.

What I don't know is if they were tandem or contra-rotating props.

When built she was provided with a single 7 blade prop with actuator (It was not a highly skewed propellor).

So maybe she had different props during here lifetime but when she was scraped her original (or lookalike) prop was in place, see picture below.


Grtz,
Bart

Well, on that sketch we see a right hand propeller forward, and a left-hand propeller aft. Counter-rotating, not tandem turning. Net torque on the boat: zero!

David

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

So I spent most of yesterday casting up stern planes. What a mess. Each of those things is an individual casting and it took forever to get four sets of the dammed things done. Today I couldn't face going on with all that again so I decided to have a go at casting the entire rear end in one bit (like I should have done in the first place!!!)
This nis the plug.

Its not finished yet but everything is in line and its fits nicely on the back of the boat. Advice on the best way to cast this thing would be appreciated. My initial thoughts are to cast the internal plug first, then cast the bottom half up to the forward edge of the control surfaces, then the top half. Three pieces in all.

Exactly so, sir:
























David

[HardRock]

So I spent most of yesterday casting up stern planes. What a mess. Each of those things is an individual casting and it took forever to get four sets of the dammed things done. Today I couldn't face going on with all that again so I decided to have a go at casting the entire rear end in one bit (like I should have done in the first place!!!)
This nis the plug.

Its not finished yet but everything is in line and its fits nicely on the back of the boat. Advice on the best way to cast this thing would be appreciated. My initial thoughts are to cast the internal plug first, then cast the bottom half up to the forward edge of the control surfaces, then the top half. Three pieces in all.

[HardRock]

Free translation of a russian publication:

quote " it was possible to determine the ways of reducing hydrodynamic interference to the work of the SAC at high speeds, as well as to test new methods for calculating propellers (at different times, propellers of different designs were installed on the submarine) " unquote

and if we look at the below scetch it's not so unrealistic me think.

What I don't know is if they were tandem or contra-rotating props.

When built she was provided with a single 7 blade prop with actuator (It was not a highly skewed propellor).

So maybe she had different props during here lifetime but when she was scraped her original (or lookalike) prop was in place, see picture below.


Grtz,
Bart

Thanks Mate. I have several different prop designs shown on the plans that I have and also several different photographs. This all makes more sense now.

[trout]

I'll have that Peacock pie please.....

[bwi 971]

Sure does. I'm thinking of fitting a contra rotating prop system. Its not scale but can you imagine who fast that thing will go with TWO props?

I think without the contra-rotating props it will be an adrenaline rush! After making this accurate, your going to add an unrealistic detail? Why make things more difficult?
I know it is your party and you can do what you want to.

I read, or saw a picture where this boat investigated the counter-rotating propellers.

As this is the Ruski ALBACORE, and pretty much followed the same testing in phases protocol, I find it difficult to believe that at some point in this experimental boats career, it did not have the 'mix-master' at the ass-end.

David

Free translation of a russian publication:

quote " it was possible to determine the ways of reducing hydrodynamic interference to the work of the SAC at high speeds, as well as to test new methods for calculating propellers (at different times, propellers of different designs were installed on the submarine) " unquote

and if we look at the below scetch it's not so unrealistic me think.

What I don't know is if they were tandem or contra-rotating props.

When built she was provided with a single 7 blade prop with actuator (It was not a highly skewed propellor).

So maybe she had different props during here lifetime but when she was scraped her original (or lookalike) prop was in place, see picture below.


Grtz,
Bart

[HardRock]

good Job sir.....interesting to see that you use peacock’s to keep you workspace tidy......are they barbie proof?

grtz,
Bart

They are - mainly because they taste like ****. The standard recipe for peacock is to place the whole bird in a large pot of boiling water with a large rock. Boil until the rock gets soft. Then discard the bird and eat the rock.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hi Mate. Hope you are feeling better. I'm not sure about the SD yet. The shape of the hull is almost crying out for a hybrid 2"/2.5" set up. I'm thinking of a fat little 2.5" ballast tank in the middle with two sections of 2" at either end for the battery and electronics. On second thought, I'm going to send you set of hulls and you can work it out!

Well, how can I say no to such a generous offer, sir. This way I'll work out the exact floodable volume of the ballast tank before freezing the design.

Yes, Bob Martin has been trying to steer me in the direction of making 2.5/2-inch reducers for just the reason you suggested. This might be the project that makes that type SubDriver a reality. We'll see. And I'll forward along, in the same box, your ZULU SD.

David

[HardRock]

Hi Mate. Hope you are feeling better. I'm not sure about the SD yet. The shape of the hull is almost crying out for a hybrid 2"/2.5" set up. I'm thinking of a fat little 2.5" ballast tank in the middle with two sections of 2" at either end for the battery and electronics. On second thought, I'm going to send you set of hulls and you can work it out!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I was going to say something about how tight it is back there .... but decorum dictates otherwise.

Good looking work back there, pal. Will this thing take a 2.5 cylinder, and if so how long can it be to be practical -- want to produce as much ballast tank as is possible as these boats had a stupidly high freeboard in surface trim.

David

[HardRock]

I ordered four 1.6mm ID wheel collars a few days ago. This is them. Making the yokes for the stern planes and upper and lower rudders.



Rear end madness!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I read, or saw a picture where this boat investigated the counter-rotating propellers.

As this is the Ruski ALBACORE, and pretty much followed the same testing in phases protocol, I find it difficult to believe that at some point in this experimental boats career, it did not have the 'mix-master' at the ass-end.

But, right now, don't get fancy. Go with the single wheel and get this dude into the drink.

David

[trout]

I think without the contra-rotating props it will be an adrenaline rush! After making this accurate, your going to add an unrealistic detail? Why make things more difficult?
I know it is your party and you can do what you want to.

[HardRock]

Sure does. I'm thinking of fitting a contra rotating prop system. Its not scale but can you imagine who fast that thing will go with TWO props?