1/96 Project 1710 Beluga

[HardRock]

Free translation of a russian publication:

quote " it was possible to determine the ways of reducing hydrodynamic interference to the work of the SAC at high speeds, as well as to test new methods for calculating propellers (at different times, propellers of different designs were installed on the submarine) " unquote

and if we look at the below scetch it's not so unrealistic me think.

What I don't know is if they were tandem or contra-rotating props.

When built she was provided with a single 7 blade prop with actuator (It was not a highly skewed propellor).

So maybe she had different props during here lifetime but when she was scraped her original (or lookalike) prop was in place, see picture below.


Grtz,
Bart

Thanks Mate. I have several different prop designs shown on the plans that I have and also several different photographs. This all makes more sense now.

[HardRock]

So I spent most of yesterday casting up stern planes. What a mess. Each of those things is an individual casting and it took forever to get four sets of the dammed things done. Today I couldn't face going on with all that again so I decided to have a go at casting the entire rear end in one bit (like I should have done in the first place!!!)
This nis the plug.

Its not finished yet but everything is in line and its fits nicely on the back of the boat. Advice on the best way to cast this thing would be appreciated. My initial thoughts are to cast the internal plug first, then cast the bottom half up to the forward edge of the control surfaces, then the top half. Three pieces in all.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

So I spent most of yesterday casting up stern planes. What a mess. Each of those things is an individual casting and it took forever to get four sets of the dammed things done. Today I couldn't face going on with all that again so I decided to have a go at casting the entire rear end in one bit (like I should have done in the first place!!!)
This nis the plug.

Its not finished yet but everything is in line and its fits nicely on the back of the boat. Advice on the best way to cast this thing would be appreciated. My initial thoughts are to cast the internal plug first, then cast the bottom half up to the forward edge of the control surfaces, then the top half. Three pieces in all.

Exactly so, sir:
























David

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Free translation of a russian publication:

quote " it was possible to determine the ways of reducing hydrodynamic interference to the work of the SAC at high speeds, as well as to test new methods for calculating propellers (at different times, propellers of different designs were installed on the submarine) " unquote

and if we look at the below scetch it's not so unrealistic me think.

What I don't know is if they were tandem or contra-rotating props.

When built she was provided with a single 7 blade prop with actuator (It was not a highly skewed propellor).

So maybe she had different props during here lifetime but when she was scraped her original (or lookalike) prop was in place, see picture below.


Grtz,
Bart

Well, on that sketch we see a right hand propeller forward, and a left-hand propeller aft. Counter-rotating, not tandem turning. Net torque on the boat: zero!

David

[HardRock]

Thanks. I'm on it.

[HardRock]

I just realised that the photograph didn't appear for some reason. Here it is.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I just realised that the photograph didn't appear for some reason. Here it is.

No need for the stern control surface operating shafts to be so big in diameter. As the rudders and stern planes are protected by the fixed stabilizers, you can get away with control surface operating shafts of .062" or so.





The bigger diameter operating shafts weaken the tips of the stabilizers.

[HardRock]

They are actually a bit smaller than that. 1.5 mm. Its a pretty small tail. I've made up some brass inserts to go in the stabiliser tips. They have a hole for the operating shalf and should end up fully enclosed in resin.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

They are actually a bit smaller than that. 1.5 mm. Its a pretty small tail. I've made up some brass inserts to go in the stabiliser tips. They have a hole for the operating shalf and should end up fully enclosed in resin.

Very well.

David

[HardRock]

The lower mould for the tail section is drying today so I decided to get on with painting my own boat.








The tail on this one won't be as good as the new, all in one job but its OK.

[HardRock]

This rubber mould is taking forever to dry. In the mean time I amusing myself with with an airbrush.

[HardRock]

The lower mould has finally set hard. Thus:

Meanwhile the painting goes on.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You lazy ****! sand off those 3D artifacts off the control surfaces!

You people: I buy you books, send you to school, and what do you do? .... you eat the teacher!

David
The Horrible

[HardRock]

Ha ha. I actually cast a full set of control surfaces to send you because I knew you'd go ape-**** over the 3D items. I usually do sand them off but I like the look of them on this model. Lots of texture.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ha ha. I actually cast a full set of control surfaces to send you because I knew you'd go ape-**** over the 3D items. I usually do sand them off but I like the look of them on this model. Lots of texture.

Don't hand me that crap - a turd festooned with corn has 'texture' as well. But I don't want that hanging off the ass-end of my model submarine!

What's wrong with you people!

David