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Hi Bart,
Some time ago wile talking to Dave, we talked about what boats were (my words) "attractive" looking subjects (his words) "SEXY". The Victor III came to the top of the list. I started collecting research on the class. Since you will be collaborating with Dave on this subject I will turn over a copy of my research file to Dave in the next few days so he can look through it and fill in what you may not have found yet. Looking forward to seeing this project develop.
I'm back......yes we have the same plans David.
I'm coming back on the dimensions soon.
Had a to deal with family wise.
Grtz,
Bart
I fully understand the family thing, Bart. First things, first.
You like those drawings? Once we are in accord I'll scale my drawings to the size of yours. (Thanks again, Will).
Standing by (I got plenty of stuff on my plate anyway). Kevin's got a ton of good stuff on this boat -- this guys like you: a complete nut-job when it comes to details.
You like those drawings? Once we are in accord I'll scale my drawings to the size of yours. (Thanks again, Will).
Standing by (I got plenty of stuff on my plate anyway). Kevin's got a ton of good stuff on this boat -- this guys like you: a complete nut-job when it comes to details.
David
General the drawings match the sub shape damn good IMO.....however the details do not match the sub we want to make (hello everybody my name is Bart and I'm a detail nut).
Btw check your inbox I sent you an e-mail yesterday
grtz,
bart
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience. "Samuel Smiles"
General the drawings match the sub shape damn good IMO.....however the details do not match the sub we want to make (hello everybody my name is Bart and I'm a detail nut).
Btw check your inbox I sent you an e-mail yesterday
grtz,
bart
Yes, we can get started on basic structures -- details down the road. Glad we're on the same page (the drawings).
Got your e-mail. I'll blast you comments later today (the shop is calling my name, I must obey!).
I need to make my copies of the loaned VICTOR-3 drawing so I can return them to Will. Give me identified datum lines on a specific profile drawing and how many inches between the datum points, Bart. That way we're working to the exact same size. That done I'll have to-scale drawings in hand and I can start work.
Kevin Rimrodt down-loaded his file on the VICTOR-3 to my machine. I'll blast you that info today -- some might be new to you.
I'll start in on the tandem propellers (and while I'm at it, why not also task me with the single skew-back wheel we see on some of those boats?) I assume that the Hogner-stem stern transitioned at its after end from a curve to a cylindrical form, resulting in a propeller hub with no taper (the only tapper would be in the removable dunce-cap vortex attenuator). That would permit two identical propellers to be mounted in tandem along the same shaft, such as seen on the 414 boat.
I need to make my copies of the loaned VICTOR-3 drawing so I can return them to Will. Give me identified datum lines on a specific profile drawing and how many inches between the datum points, Bart. That way we're working to the exact same size. That done I'll have to-scale drawings in hand and I can start work.
Damn, you will be that distressing little voice in my head the whole build won't you
Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
Kevin Rimrodt down-loaded his file on the VICTOR-3 to my machine. I'll blast you that info today -- some might be new to you.
Perfect
Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
I'll start in on the tandem propellers (and while I'm at it, why not also task me with the single skew-back wheel we see on some of those boats?) I assume that the Hogner-stem stern transitioned at its after end from a curve to a cylindrical form, resulting in a propeller hub with no taper (the only tapper would be in the removable dunce-cap vortex attenuator). That would permit two identical propellers to be mounted in tandem along the same shaft, such as seen on the 414 boat.
Show off
Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
This is going to be fun!
Yes it will
grtz,
Bart (AKA captain slow)
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience. "Samuel Smiles"
As I didn't want to hack Tim's Golf build any longer so I started a new Topic
Gents, the development of a 1/96 VICTOR III has started.
Streaming the WWW for pictures and information about the sub for two weeks, got what I required so first step is has been taken.
Going to finish the AKULA first before I start crafting the VICTOR III.
In between I will process what I got on information.
Ok deal....suggest you jump in when I start laying up those hulls.
Rudders and planes are mine, the root of them will be part of the tail piece.
If you need pictures of the props or other parts just jell, I gathered a few now.
Grtz,
Bart
OK, you're lead-man on this, Bart. I follow.
Yeah. Finish that AKULA, pal!
What can I do to help with lay-up, advice? I've never been short on that.
Other than pie-fights and hissy-fits between the two of us lets work to keep our activity on the forum so these other poor slobs can suffer along with us. By the way: I have no heart-burn on how many forums you submit this stuff to; the more, the merrier.
OK, do your control surfaces first and send me parts so I can match your control surfaces to the tail-piece vertical and horizontal stabilizers I do here. Are you going to articulate (variable camber) the bow planes? And send me a length between perpendiculars (datum lines) so I can make my working copies of the plans.
I'm working (drawing) on the rear planes.
We have the main and the stabilizer.
I’m drawing them as one (the stabilizer will be part of the main);
We have two options:
Yellow line on picture; Pivot the whole around the stabilizer (semi balanced, will result in flow restrictions over the main)
Red line on picture, Pivot the whole around the main plane (balanced, when angled the trim plane will look like an extension to the main, at 0° angle it will appear like a real trim plane)
Think the last will be most effective (that means the radius of the leading edge will be opposite between the stabilizer and main).
Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
Are you going to articulate (variable camber) the bow planes?
David
You mean we make the "flap plane" work. Are you trying to kill me mr Horrible?
Pulling my strings aren’t you. I hate you,
I think I can draw a workable flap plane, and sent you all the required dimensions regarding the povot points. We need to work with a fixed bushing/guide on with we can fix the pivot arm for the flap. We can pull this off.
(Please remember I'm the detail nut here).
grtz,
Bart
Attached Files
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience. "Samuel Smiles"
How about option-3? We don't make the stabilizer (here I would call it an auxillery stern plane) practical, we just scribe its outline into the horizontal stabilizers and be done with it. I don't think I've ever seen a photo of the auxillery stern planes deflected. So, let's keep the ass-end simple: just the main stern planes. And yes, I agree with the 'red line' as the center of rotation there.
Yeah, 'flap-plane'. And I hate you too, pal. Detail nut? Indeed. You've simply got to hook-up with Kevin one of these days -- he's a maniac when it comes to such goodies.
Don't fret about the articulated bow planes. Kevin Rimrodt has already worked out the drag-link for such a camber-changing arrangement. I'll break out the masters, take pictures and show you how simple that is. As you suggest, all we need is a fixed point concentric to the operating shaft to hold the link (which acts as a bell-crank, deflecting the trailing edge as the rest of the control surface rotates.
If you guys wish, when you get the masters made for the bow planes (non functioning), make a couple of castings and I can make the working bow planes (articulating flaps) and return them to Dave as the "functioning masters" as a contribution to this project. Note: I can make the trailing edge work to a 50 to150 percentage of the angle of the main plane. I would suggest starting with 1 to 1. It is my understanding that a plane/rudder can go at up to 37 degrees of attack before it looses effectiveness. So with 1 to 1 the main bow plane can go to a 37 deg plane and the flap will go to 37 deg to the main plane or 74 deg to the longitudinal plane of the boat. I have found that this significantly increases the effectiveness of small rudders or planes.
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