Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

1/96 Romeo - Wherefor art thou?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #76
    Originally posted by HardRock View Post
    I think I'm done. There could be a lot more scribing (and repairing of scribing) but its heading for overkill. Waiting for the silicon to arrive.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1082.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	37.1 KB
ID:	118824
    I see the occasional ding that need filling. Set up a single, strong light source directly over the master, about five-feet from it. This will throw solid shadows that will reveal the dings hidden by fill light (typical shop lighting and Mr. Sun). Work it, shop-slave! Be productive! Huba-huba!

    David
    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

    Comment


    • #77
      Nice work, Scott,


      It reminds me of the stickers you see on the back of V8 HSV Holdens, 'I just want one'.

      is the shed 10 degrees cooler?

      dave

      Comment


      • #78
        10 degrees cooler still makes it 32C in there today. I think I'm getting thinner by the day.

        Comment


        • #79
          Sorting out the arse end.
          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1091.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	59.9 KB
ID:	118841

          Comment


          • #80
            This is better. The attachments are still raw and need some sanding but this is the general idea.
            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1094.jpg
Views:	24
Size:	12.7 KB
ID:	118844
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #81
              This is the final, aligned version of the stern feathers. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1103.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	70.8 KB
ID:	118919

              Comment


              • #82
                Damn you, that looks good. I have yet to write up a worthwhile WIP on the glove-mother mold process. So, here are the pretty pictures. Just keep this in mind, you want the wall thickness of the rubber glove to be no less than 1/2". Thicker is better.













                More pretty pictures:

                http://s262.photobucket.com/user/dme...mother%20molds

                David
                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                Comment


                • #83
                  Questions, questions, questions. Standby for questions. What is the substrate used in the 212 mould to encase the rubber? What sort of gel coat did you use? In the last photograph; is that a plug at the bottom, and if it is, how on earth do you stop it getting welded to the moulding?

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Originally posted by HardRock View Post
                    Questions, questions, questions. Standby for questions. What is the substrate used in the 212 mould to encase the rubber? What sort of gel coat did you use? In the last photograph; is that a plug at the bottom, and if it is, how on earth do you stop it getting welded to the moulding?
                    And this is just the way a WIP should work: questions are asked, qualified personnel answer. Let's keep this ball rolling, HardRock!

                    The mother mold (substrate, if you will) is any thermosetting plastic you like: glass impregnated with polyester, polyurethane or epoxy, for example. The 212 mother mold is a purpose formulated polyurethane marketed by the Freeman Pattern and Supply Company, https://www.freemansupply.com/

                    This 'tooling resin' is formulated for non-sag, quick cure, and stability over time and temperatures -- the stuff is very good for vacuforming tools as well. In this application, it's used with fiberglass shards to form the stiff mother mold portion of the Type-212 tools. Here's the product sheet, https://www.freemansupply.com/produc...-cast-urethane

                    And here's the process of mother mold build-up over the glove mold:

                    I'll first show the work on the Type-212. In this case I'm using the polyurethane tooling resin reinforced with glass fibers. First task is to thoroughly mix each of the two-part system, very heavily filled and very thick. A 'jiffy-mixer' is a must for complete mixing. Once mixed, I transfer a small quantity to ready service containers -- that way I don't expose the bulk material to air any longer than I have to.



                    The surface of the rubber glove mold is waxed to ease later release between it and the mother mold. A small quantity of tooling resin is mixed up and brushed over the surface of the glove mold and left to harden, but still a bit tacky -- about ten minutes from mixing. Note that the surface of the rubber glove is rough -- this insures a tight indexing between glove and mother molds.





                    An egg-crate type reinforcement is made from plywood and bonded to the mother mold as layers of tooling resin are piled onto the glove, after the first coat, glass fibers are added to the mix to strengthen the mother mold. Note that the mix overlaps and bonds to the egg-crate. The assembly forms a very stable, rigid structure that will not warp over time. Nominal wall thickness of the mother mold is about 3/8".



                    Here's the same process applied to the master of a 1/96 THRESHER bow section, glove and mother mold:











                    I don't understand your last question, pal. Would you re-phrase is please.

                    David



                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Thanks for this. The last question related to this:

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	question.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	526.0 KB
ID:	118928

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Oh! It's a laid-up GRP part pulled off this tool.

                        David
                        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          OK. That's interseting and it raises another question. When you use this tool do you gel coat both sides, lay the cloth and wet it and THEN join the tool together or is it done in some other way?

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Originally posted by HardRock View Post
                            OK. That's interseting and it raises another question. When you use this tool do you gel coat both sides, lay the cloth and wet it and THEN join the tool together or is it done in some other way?
                            Kind of. I do a complete lay-up into each half -- gel-coat, 4 oz., then two laminates of 10 oz., taking care not to get any above the flange plane. Only then do I assemble the tool and lay in glass from the open end to bridge the flange plane, bonding the two GRP sections together. I then open up the tool and pop the completed GRP part out.

                            You see us doing this with the Dave Manley 1/96 BLUEBACK and KILO tooling here:









                            More pretty pictures from the BLUEBACK album: http://s262.photobucket.com/user/dme...eshow/BLUEBACK

                            Another way to work GRP parts out of hard-shell tools is to over-extend the glass work over the flange-plane, and then sand back the excess GRP to the flange-plane, re-wax the flange, assemble the two halves, and bond the union between the two with glass tape and resin, like on this superstructure for a 1/72 M-1 model:











                            David
                            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              The plug has been mounted on the parting board...... these are the adjusters to get it level and at the right waterline cut off. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1106.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	23.2 KB
ID:	119011Once it had been glooped with silicon, I gave it one cat of resin and then dropped the egg crate over it. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1104.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	28.2 KB
ID:	119012Then another two layers of chopped glass and resin. Meanwhile I have been seeking out the right colour for the great leader's chariot. How abot this? Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1109.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	57.8 KB
ID:	119013

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                Man! You're going like a house-a-fire on this project! How thick did you build up the rubber? Love how you jack the hull up to the waterline. This is the exciting part! Lighten the green just a tad.

                                David
                                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X