Yes you did! Shes very impressive.................to put up with you. OH! I dont believe I said that. LOOK! the edit button isnt working right now. At any rate I also managed to get the bow together, getting ready to start the retract mech. section. Boy, if I keep going like this , Ill be done Thursday week. What happened to the "Emoticons"? I could be putting a smiley face in here somewhere......but NO......No emoticons.
ME TOO 1/72 GATO
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IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY! -
Yes you did! Shes very impressive.................to put up with you. OH! I dont believe I said that. LOOK! the edit button isnt working right now. At any rate I also managed to get the bow together, getting ready to start the retract mech. section. Boy, if I keep going like this , Ill be done Thursday week. What happened to the "Emoticons"? I could be putting a smiley face in here somewhere......but NO......No emoticons.
Smart-ass!Who is John Galt?Comment
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I had been thinking about the bow plane retracts and how I was going to control them. Somewhere I was reading about Kevin Mcleod having a device to control your retract mech. I think it was in Toms Gato build thread. I contacted Kevin and he sent me a link to a vid that demonstrates the device. Its very inexpensive and it looks like it works great. WHERE HAVE I BEEN? you say. Somehow I missed all this but here is the link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8BB...be&app=desktopIT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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I think Kevin can do just about anything. Glad Hes onboard. Ill be getting one on the way.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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You are right. It does work great. I have one in my Oscar and I can tell you that having fiddled around with THREE different Engle modules (none of which actually worked as advertised), I discovered Kevin's bow plane retract module. Its easy to programme and it works. Flip the switch; it brings the bow planes to zero angle and isolates the bow plane servo, then retracts the planes. Wonderful.Comment
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Continuing on I cut out the upper areas in the bow as described in Daves video instructions. Also I got the stern and rudder and rudder bearings prepared.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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You are right. It does work great. I have one in my Oscar and I can tell you that having fiddled around with THREE different Engle modules (none of which actually worked as advertised), I discovered Kevin's bow plane retract module. Its easy to programme and it works. Flip the switch; it brings the bow planes to zero angle and isolates the bow plane servo, then retracts the planes. Wonderful.Last edited by greenman407; 03-09-2016, 09:56 AM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Today I watched more of the video, did some more work.....watched more video, did some more work. First I mounted and glued the skeg that comprises half of the stern planes bearing. Then I marked and sawed off the portion to give us access to the rudder and planes assm. Then on to marking and carving out the area where the prop shafts penetrate the hull. Cleaned up the white metal castings and pickled them in Vinegar. Probably not as good as ferric acid but it does work as I have used it before. Tomorrow I hope to get on some body filler on some booboo spots on the prop shaft fairings and the prop bearing mounts. Ive got a set of brass props for this thing and I drilled and mounted them on the shafts using "permatex green sleeve retainer". Very, very, mean stuff.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Onward ever onward. I was very careful not to trim away too much material at the location of the prop shafts penetrating the hull. It worked out well. I decided to try Daves trick of using baking soda on the CA. I used thick CA . I put a carefully aimed and contoured filet of CA and then sprinkled baking soda on top. It all looks good to me so far.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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At least my nails were clean. That was over a week ago. Since then I learned the hard way. Dont cement the rear halves together, until you have rudder shaft and bellcrank in place as well as stern planes sitting in its cradle. The bad words that can come from not heeding this advice could be extreme. So, stern has been assembled and marked for excess upper deck material removal. Same is true of the mid section. I think I will use my Dremel Multi-Max to do the cutting. Less kerf and melted mess. At the same time Im turning my attention to the bow planes and retract.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Could you possibly find a more gay looking photo background -- where do you live ... in a bath-house???!!!!
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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HA! I live with my Mom and thats the bed spread that she made! Be careful or Ill get Mom on you!IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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