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OK, what are the Russian's using as an alloy for their propellers these days? Looks like stainless or Titanium. Anyone know?
M
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Who is John Galt? -
up to my knowledge the last Titanium prop was on the Alfa….picture of DELTA IV props….seems Bronze to me.
Grtz,
Bart
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
"Samuel Smiles"Comment
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Last edited by bwi 971; 09-22-2015, 04:24 PM.Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
"Samuel Smiles"Comment
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Thankyou one and all for the feedback. Appreciated.
However I am still at a loss over those little torpedo shaped access hatches.
I am getting this write up in early today as tomorrow I will be driving the 10 hours up to Queensland (Brisbane)for my son's week long Futsal (like soccer) tournament. Back on Friday in time for the Gosford Subregatta.
The inlet scoops are pretty much done with the exception of lots of sanding and final profile work. I have now turned my attention to the rear horizontal fins. The Komsomolets has really small rear fins. The front ones are pretty small too. When I started cutting out the rear fins according to the drawings I have been working off they are neither long or really all that wide. I really wonder how effective they actually were. Added to this is the fact that Komsomolets has the small little manoeuvring thrusters on the ends. These thrusters have been made the same way as I made the scoops, turning my drill press into a lathe of sorts has been useful. I soooo want a small metal lathe.....
Reading some material on a forum for scale ships I read that these 'thrusters' are actually vortex dissipators. Can anyone confirm this? Looking at photos of them on the Alfa and the like they do look small and the tiny blades on the propellers on the thrusters do look really small and I suppose therefore, ineffectual. Plus the fact that they are parallel to the hull tells me that they probably wouldn't do much manoeuvring. Just teeny weeny thrusting forward/ backward. Comments please. I suppose these blades could disrupt the flow of vortex of the tips of the moving surfaces. Interesting........
I cut out the rear planes out of pine. Then started sanding sanding, filling and more sanding, till they were just the right shape. Then smoothing with finer paper. The inner edge of the plane at the root is really thin where the pivot shaft for the moving surface moves through into the hull. This would break off really easily if I didn't use the finest and narrowest saw available. That trusty little Japanese blade I mentioned previously. Best $5 I've spent in ages. I decided to reinforce this are by running some super glue over the effected area. It can soak into the grain and give a little more strength during the cut. Once this was done I had to drill the hole from top to bottom for the pivoting shaft. This required patience and timing to get the drill press aligned just right and make sure that I would come out the bottom and not out the side somewhere.
Once this was down it was simply a case of making the two cuts at the ends of where to the moving surface was located then using a knife to join the cuts and out pops the moving surface.
Anyway , enough for now.
David H
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No comments on the itty bitty little thruster thingies?
Back from a week in Brisbane. In the week when all of Brisbane wanted to pay exhorbitant air fares to Sydney to watch an all Queensland grand final. I actually missed mike...
Still I got my sub fix by going to the Gosford sub regatta where intelligent submarine conversation could be had....
Anyway, more on the stern planes. After carefully drilling the holes for where the pivots occur then using my Japanese saw blade to finely cut the outer edges of the rear planes and using a knife to split the parts. It was then a case of sanding a radius on the front edge of the rear plane so that it will pivot around the brass rod and not bump up against the fixed plane. Once this was done to a satisfactory level I would be looking at using the usual filler to create a fillet around the radius of the creeper motor / vortex dissipator / jury still out on whatever it is.
The next major task would be to create the fillet at the root. I have decided to mould the fillet onto the rear assembly. This would give a much greater surface area for gluing and would allow a nice transition between the hull and the extension of the rear planes out horizontally. To do this I would temporarily attach masking tape to the side where the rear planes would be placed. I would then paste some filler onto the side of the hull and then squash the root of the fin against the hull and filler where it would be positioned and then using tape keep it attached. Check for level and then apply more filler around the root to create a fillet. Once this had hardened you could then remove the tape and gently sand a general profile. Once the filler has completely dried and hardened you can gently pull it off or pull the tape off the side of the hull and then the tape off the stern plane and you will have a reasonably smooth end edge that conforms to the hull shape. I am actually thinking about designing the silicon mould for making these to have the sprue project out from the root fillet and simply cutting it a little above the root fillet surface to act as a protrusion to go through the hull and make securing the rear planes to the hull, better. Maybe even make the sprue rectangular in section. From here you can then sand around the fillet and get the top and bottom root profile to line up. Then more filling and sanding of imperfections and divits.
That should do it. Back to work tomorrow,Yay!
David h
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The horizontal stabilizers and stern planes would have been better achieved this way:
1. use RenShape as the substrate http://www.freemansupply.com/RenShape440Styling.htm Not that god-awful wood!
2. make only one stern plane and stabilizer, us those as masters from which you make a rubber tool
3. cast two sets of parts and bond them to the hull master.
You people!
By the way -- and don't get a fat head over this -- you work is so much improved over your UK Boomer. You're growing, kiddo! Soon to be a Force to be reckoned with.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Possible...but if you translate you get
Motion aides
Submarines auxiliary propulsion system
If they are vortex dissipators I can't really explain why they are placed a lot more inwards on the victors.
Regarding the fins on upper hull of the stern.....found pictures of a delta III also equipped with those fins (experimental).......so I guess they have something to do with the flow after all.
Grtz,
Bart
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
"Samuel Smiles"Comment
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Terbulators, maybe? To keep the boundary layer stuck to the hull further along the stern?
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Hi Guys thanks for the feedback. Thanks David.
I've been busy winding down from the Gosford Subregatta. Numbers were not as high as Canberra, never are,however some great runs and good weather.
The work that I have been doing for the last couple of weeks have been around the tail end. The vertical rudders and horizontal planes, getting them accurate and consistent. As you can see the pods are not the same length. Will have to work on that one. As mentioned last week I completed the two rear planes and had yet to complete the lower rudder. The lower rudder is smaller than the top one and the pivot does not line up with the top rudder. This would make it hard to use a normal yoke, unless I use licence and align the top and bottom rudders together. The top and bottom rudder with have a small raised fillet on the hull that will take the guesswork out of locating both the top and bottom rudders. I then drilled a hole for where the pivot is located. I intend to align the holes for the pivot top and bottom to line up so that the rudders are on the same axis. This should make lining them up for the rudder yoke, easy. It is also easier to mould a fillet on the hull than on the individual pieces, even though it was not a huge drama on the stern planes.
After using filler to smooth over the imperfections in the control surfaces I give them a coat of polyester resin and then sand back lightly. Then a shot of primer to find further imperfections then sanding and another coat of primer.
David H
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Thanks David for the comments,
So for the past several weeks I have simply been working on the rear fins. Getting them absolutely accurate has been an ongoing task. I am thinking of doing just as David mentioned and that is moulding both rear stern planes and just using two of each per boat. That will assure that the two stern planes on any given model should be identical. The stern planes are symmetrical so turning them upside down should not be a problem.
The final surface to make is the lower rudder plane. It is smaller than the top rudder and the pivot is offset from the top rudder. As mentioned I had to take artistic licence for the sake of not making the rudder yoke a trying task that would drive me up the wall so I aligned them on a central axis..
I mounted the hull back onto the rotating board so I could check for alignment of the stern planes. I really had to get this right , here otherwise It would just not look right and eventually it would bind somewhere down the track making more work for servo's later on. Drilling the whole from the top through the rear hull to the bottom rudder required a bit of time and checking but eventually managed to get a clean drill hole going from the top and coming out where it should at the bottom. I can now position the top and bottom rudder surfaces on the one brass shaft for now.
The bottom rudder , like the top has a raised section that will make location of the rudder easier. This was done by simply sanding a small piece of fig and gluing it down to the hull, filling around and sanding back.
The photo's show the complete rear surfaces simply stuck on with plasticine for now. It is good the see how the overall boat will look. I am going to etch the outline of the root fillet of the stern planes onto the hull so that locating them is easier.
Enough for now....
David H
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Hi all,
I've spend a bit of time this week looking over the development of some silicon moulds. I could have the first actual parts produced by this weekend if I put in the effort. I've made the silicon moulds for the 4 reactor scoops positioned towards the rear underside of the hull. However here are some more pics of the 'assembly' of the masters. As mentioned previously using plasticine to hold the rear fins together give a good impression of the overall look of the boat.
These photo's also show the further development of the reactor scoops and their positioning on the lower rear side of the hull. Because I am developing this as a kit I am going to scribe the location of the scoops on the lower hull for modellers to have hopefully a trouble free straight forward installation. I have a small chisel that is 'u' shaped. I think it was originally for leather work but is brilliant at etching into PVC pipe. The elliptical profiles of the scoops is easy to recreate in the pipe.
I have started making the vortex dissipators on the rear upper hull. These are tiny fins that angle out from the hull half way between the rear of the sail and the rudder. They are extremely small and easily prone to landing on the floor and never being seen again. They are so small that moulding them is going to be a real challenge. Still have to work on that one. They will need a metal rod sticking out of them or I can see them easily getting broken off. They are on the top of the hull.
Some of the photos show Mike next to Resolution. They are effectively stable mates and are the same scale. 1/120. Resolution is in reality about 10 metres longer but mike is slightly wider. I think they look O.K next to each other. They currently comprise my product line.
Over and out.
Would love some feedback / suggestions, people...
David h
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Looking great Mate. Do you have any photographs of the new Resolution sail?Comment
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The quality of your work has improved. And your industry; your rate of accomplishment is fantastic. I hope you find a market for these products, Dave. Unique and important subjects you've chosen to model, pal.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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You mentioned vortex dissipator type appendages that would possibly get broken off. What if the appendages were formed of black silicone.
They would be flexible and less prone to getting knocked off. The silicone can form some pretty sharp detail.
Also could periscopes be silicone formed around wire from a mold?
I guess just don't try to mold silicone in a silicone mold without some good mold release. I hear silicone loves to stick to cured silicone.
Disclaimer is I have no molding experience; but have used play dough in my formative years.
Picture of silicone phone case showing possible details.
Submarines do use some rubber coatings.
Scott TComment
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