Scratch Build Project 685 Plavnik K-278 Komsomolets NATO: Mike

[Slats]

David H...I'm just catching up on the hobby - wonder what scale this build is? . Nice work. J :)

[Davidh]

Hi john,

Have been wanting to catch up with you for a while. She is 1/120 scale , same as resolution, I'm developing her as a kit. Great to hear from you .

Dave

[Slats]

Dave, very nice work. And I must say nice to see another craftsman developing kits. Can you please post her size etc.
I also owe you a phone a call. I'll try and ring you next couple of days, its been a manic year of work, grad school, and family commitments.

cheers
John

[Davidh]

Hi john

She is 970mm long. Her diameter is 90mm of which 570mm of her length is at that constant dia.

Dave

P.S A phone call tonight or tomorrow night is good

[Slats]

Shame its not a tad bigger say 1/96, as its a bit of a weird scale. Will try and phone. Cheers J

[Davidh]

Hello all,

I would like to write my usual Friday night write up for Mike but have just wasted an hour and a half. Trying to get the page to load photo's bigger that what you see here. This is really annoying. I have tried barts software Image resizer and some other software called 'Irfamview' and also Movavi and have had nothing but problems. Links that don't work add ons that you can't find and photos that just wont behave or give you lame error messages. There must be a simpler way of doing this? In the words of Jeremy Clarkson "Does it really have to be this hard?" Why can't this page just take the pics at the size they come in?

dave

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]temp_31179_1452246554778_867[/ATTACH]Hello all,

I would like to write my usual Friday night write up for Mike but have just wasted an hour and a half. Trying to get the page to load photo's bigger that what you see here. This is really annoying. I have tried barts software Image resizer and some other software called 'Irfamview' and also Movavi and have had nothing but problems. Links that don't work add ons that you can't find and photos that just wont behave or give you lame error messages. There must be a simpler way of doing this? In the words of Jeremy Clarkson "Does it really have to be this hard?" Why can't this page just take the pics at the size they come in?

dave

I hear you. When this site went up it was a simple matter to get big-format pictures up, straight from your own hard-drive. I too have tried the fixes Bart and others have worked out (thanks for the effort, guys!) -- but I too found it too much of a problem to keep up with. Dave: the only viable means I've found is to host your pictures at a proper picture-video hosting site and to place the URL's into your text. As other boards are set up to present hosted pictures, you don't have to go with the upload business more than once if you wish to present the same work to different sites.

Wish I had a better answer for you, Dave. But, that's the way it is.

M

[bwi 971]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]temp_31179_1452246554778_867[/ATTACH]Hello all,

I would like to write my usual Friday night write up for Mike but have just wasted an hour and a half. Trying to get the page to load photo's bigger that what you see here. This is really annoying. I have tried barts software Image resizer and some other software called 'Irfamview' and also Movavi and have had nothing but problems. Links that don't work add ons that you can't find and photos that just wont behave or give you lame error messages. There must be a simpler way of doing this? In the words of Jeremy Clarkson "Does it really have to be this hard?" Why can't this page just take the pics at the size they come in?

dave

Dave, if you want you can e-mail all your images, for this built, that need resizing to me.
Till you find a solution for your picture problem, I'm willing to resize them for you and return them so you can use them on the forum.

Just let me know and I will fwd my e-mail address.

Grtz,
Bart

[Davidh]

Thanks Bart,

Very generous of you. I will pm my email address. If you could send me yours

Dave

[bwi 971]

testtesttest

[Davidh]

Hello all,

Thankyou Bart for your resizing help.

So here are some of the resized pics that I wanted to put up last time. These pics show the alignment and gluing of the bow section with the lower bow hull fibre glassed to the top hull. I used a strip of fibreglass masked top and bottom so as to not go over the detail of the sonar array panels etc..

The photo that Bart tested shows the complete kit with all the parts as of now I intend on including with the kit. The four reactor scoops will also be in polyurethane therefore will be banana yellow. The fin sides and top are on this occasion made of vinylester resin. Once the bow section was attached and sanded and filled I would have to do a little re-etching along the equator to make sure that some of the etched detail that had been lost from glassing the how halved together was effectively re-instated. I would then be looking at indexing lips around the inside of the lower hull half.

In the meantime, I started looking at producing a second hull. You can see that here in one of the photos. This hull and moulded appendages in the zip loc bag was sent to Brad Van Eps in Brisbane. He saw the masters at the Gosford subregatta back in October and simply said, "I want one." I went through the same preparation procedure with is hull as with mine. There were areas needing some sanding and filling.

To the indexing lips. These were to run the length of the hull. They would simply consist of a strip of fibreglass sheet cut quite narrow. 20mm wide and resined to the inside edge of the lower hull. I would then sand the inside of the upper hull just around the edge so that any irregularities and uneven areas would be made consistent. Once done I would use pegs and clamps to hold the strip in place and then with a couple of dabs of super glue just to keep it in place till I could get some resin onto it. I wiped excess resin in between the front edge of the hull and the gap made by the face that the edge of the hull is curved and the strip is mainly flat. Before hand I had put down a strip of masking tape to make sure there would be no excess dribble over the side of the hull.

So far the part line looks O.K It's not perfect but certainly aligns well and with the indexing lips shows a good clean fit. Producing a similar lip to curve around the back end of the top hull as it aligns up with the stern will certainly help to secure the whole enterprise. There will also be a lip under the front of the hull underneath as it slides into the lower bow section.

I haven't even touched the fore planes yet!


David H

[Davidh]

Hello all,

There's not much major construction left on this boat. There is mostly working through the inner components of the boat. Installing the Subdriver and the prop shaft. I've ordered a propshaft from the UK but it's taking forever to get here. I'm kind of held up with e few aspects of the build because I'm waiting on a accessory for my lathe that will allow me to use my keyless tailstock chuck to be able to drill holes in brass parts for either propeller shafts and also the brass collar I want to make for the fore planes. This Arbor is holding up everything.
Once I get hold of this I can start developing the design of the propeller. As seen in the photo's it's a really interesting double four bladed offset design. I don't know what the benefit of a design like this would be. I will probably design and build mine in two stages.

Anyway... The subdriver that I am using is the same as the one in the Resolution. The diameter is the same however the driver will not sit as high in the hull as it does in Resolution. The reason for this is because the valve that sits on the top of the ballast tank had plenty of clearance within the missile hull of Resolution. This allowed me to place the Subdriver higher in the hull and as a result moved the motor shaft which is in the lower half of the rear bulkhead higher and the resultant dogleg coupling had less bend. Mike has very little clearance at the top of the hull. The small pipe that extends up above the valve has had to be bend forward in order to clear the underside of Mikes rear hull just behind the sail. needless to say the dogleg will be greater on mike.

The shaft will be reasonably short as a fair distance will be taken up with the double dogleg universal coupling.

I've drilled holes up into the bottom of the teardrop profile on the hull where the sail fits. This is for draining and trapped air to escape once dived. Through one of the holes the air pipe for the subdriver air line extends. Another small hole is for the small bolt that is mounted in the sail and attaches via a nut into the hull effectively securing it. I do this simply so that sail can come of for easier transportation.

The reactor coolant scoops underneath the hull need a little bit of sanding and then a light grey primer spray. Once I have done this I will be gluing to their required location on the undersides of the hull. They will eventually be painted in an anti-foul red that is found on almost all Russian Subs. I have decided however to give the anti-foul the 'north Atlantic' treatment. It will be a faded terracotta shade. Looking at the top of the hull I am determined not to make the hull absolutely black. Having a look at heaps of dry dock images of soviet boats it's clear that the black is more of a gunmetal grey black.

I wanted a weathered look all over. I was tempted to ask Scott (Hardrock) for a favour, even though I owe him a few and get him to weather it has he is "da weathering meister ". I couldn't quite find the right dark grey that I wanted. Something that looked black but wasn't quite. So I decided to do something a bit unusual and see if it would work. I simply got a can of black and a can of grey primer and used them at the same time. After going over the whole of the upper hull and waited for it to dry. A nice hot 30 degree day, done in no time. The actual result looks way better than I expected.

Once I get hold of the propeller shaft I will install that and then reasonably soon should be the first in the water shots of her running. I have also been working on a website to look at selling kits. If you are interested they are selling for $140 AUD plus p&p . Contact me.

David H

[trout]

Very nice look. The mottled look below the surface came out well, is that where you did the black and grey mix? You can be the weathering master as well!

[Davidh]

Hello trout,

The two can method is above the waterline. It is the main upper hull. To achieve the algae build up under the waterline I simply taped off the upper hull and held a white paint can a meter or so back and made quick passes.

Dave

[Davidh]

Hello all,

Still waiting on the propeller shaft. Holidays virtually over, back to work tomorrow. After this the next posts should show the boat in the water. The most recent work has pretty much been internal. Although waiting for the shaft I have added two hooks, either side of the inner hull for the rubber bands to hold the subdriver in place so it doesn't try to float loose inside the hull. Even though the hull is pretty confined.
The bands pull around the front side of the valve at the top and so create a pushing force rearward that will push the subdriver hard up against the brass bracket at the back that keeps the module where it needs to be and pushing up against the pro shaft, when I finally get it. I intend on producing my own prop shafts but once again am awaiting parts from O.S for my lathe.

I've also added some floatation foam in the areas that it's usually needed, even though the boat hasn't hit the water yet. Plenty up the front in the bow where it's needed and some on either side of the pushrods at the back, keeping space for the fore planes which haven't gone in yet. Once again need part for my lathe so I can turn up brass parts (Arbor for keyless tailstock chuck). Once the fore planes are in there will be more room for more foam.

I have also attached the little vortex attenuators of dissipators or whatever they are, tiny little things just made from tiny oval shaped profiles cut from aluminium and painted black.
Pretty happy with the paint scheme as mentioned. I always find that the scum line seems to be particulary noticeable when in the water. I guess I'll find out soon.

Next photos should be boat in the water. Probably still without a shaft and undergoing trimming sessions.

David H