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I went shopping for stuff.....I got the aluminum (aluminium for our proper english friends) tubes I needed, but I can't get Owens Corning Foam F-250? My Home Depot does not carry this - I guess being a warmer weather state gets factored in. Any other suggestions? What does a sheet run? Anyone needing to buy one I can go in with?
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Tom,
You should be able to find that pink foam there somewhere. As hot as it is there, they use foam panels. If not I have a bunch here I bought for cutting foam wings. It would cost more to ship it than it's worth though. Keep looking for the pink stuff! Have you done any radio installation yet? I need to charge the radio before next weekend so it's up and running. This is the part I hate when it comes to building RC aircraft, rigging the radio. Looks like I may have to splice the larger aluminum tube to make it long enough to control the retract of the dive planes. And I asked David how to install the snort and glue the guide for the forward controls to the lexan tube.
Jay
Jay, Your build coming along great! Thank you for the encouragement on the search for foam. I will keep looking for the pink stuff. So far it looks like around here, everything is the fiber insulation. Yes, I have begun playing with the radio. Do you know what I learned? Things change (can you believe it?). My receiver (Futaba) has G type plugs.
G to the left, J to the right. The radio works great with the modifications I did. My old batteries were long gone, but I modified my TX to hold a newer battery pack (with AA rechargeable batteries) and the RX (for testing purposes) is using a battery pack with rechargeable AA batteries.
The new servos and receivers use J type or JR plugs. So I have choices. I can buy J pins and connectors and cut the cables on my old servos to use the J plug portion (cheapest, but time consuming) or buy pre made cables to convert the new G servos to J receiver (most expensive, but not time consuming) or a combination of buying G plug pigtails and J plug ends. All have pluses and minuses. BUT wait, David or Mike, will the SL-8 work with my old Futaba?
Not wanting to let the build be stagnant, began some details on the hull (I will post at a later date). I did rescan the line drawing in the Revell instructions to a higher resolution, and cleaned it up.
Will finish the drive shaft install on Wednesday (hopefully) and post the progress.
It is getting close to a tub test. I can't wait.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
The "TUB' test is always a lot of fun but I have found it is a lot better on the old back and knees to use my 6' X 4' box trailer.
I got some plastic pond sheeting and lined my trailer with it, then filled the trailer with water. What I now have is a "Test Tank" that is long enough to float most of my boats and deep enough to completely submerge the subs for testing.
The best part is that I don't have to bend over to see what is going on with the boats. and getting them in and out is a lot less drama than walking a dripping sub out from the bathroom to where it is to be worked on, especially when the wife is looking.
I posted a question to Sombra Labs (they were very quick to respond) and buying a RX to work with my antiquated Futaba system is a no go. and some sad news, my budget just taken a hit. My dog has cancer and we will be doing a surgery in a couple of weeks.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Tom,
Sorry to hear about your dog. We've had more than our share of dealing with pets over the years. I feel for you. As for a test tank, mine is frozen or will be in about two days. In your area I can't believe you, or a friend, don't have one in the yard. I'm not rushing the build as I won't see fluid water for months now.
Jay
Thank you Jay! We will continue to hope for the best. The toughest part is explaining to Sam (7) about what is going on.
I ordered the pre made cables to go between G and J servo connectors and RX. This is temporary as I hope that sometime in the future I will get the WFLY 8 Ch radio and a Sombra Labs Receiver.
There is a feeling, I cannot express adequately, when I came to this point. The connecting of the Propellor shaft to the WTC. I hope this feeling happens with every sub I build. I will AGAIN mention get the DVD by David. He goes through this step so well! I am doing it only because of what he teaches. Take a measurement between the end of the propellor shaft’s Dumas coupler and the WTC Dumas coupler. Cutting the aluminum tube is so simple. Who knew? Yes, I know you did. All I had to do is roll the edge of my x-acto along at the point I wanted my cut, and bend. It snaps at the place it is scored. Cut the nylon Dumas coupler in half, insert one half in each end, and test the fit. It will look something like this. Next using 1/16” bit, drill through the tube and nylon coupler. Tap a piece of 1/16” brass rod through your newly created hole. I trimmed the ends close and hammered it down using a jeweler's hammer. The black marking was used to make sure the end did not shift prior to being drilled. Two shafts ready for install. And of course, here they are installed.
Last edited by trout; 12-07-2011, 11:29 PM.
Reason: to reload pictures
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Anybody want to sell me Pink Foam? I searched and to no avail. I talked to a Home Depot and they can special order it for ~$1,500 (it appears there is a minimum order to get it in). Is there a different source or type?
Thank in advance!
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
check and see if they have "R-Tech Foam Insulation" sheets. the homedepot website claims it is available in las vegas in different thicknesses from 3/4" to 2" in 4' x 8' sheets for $8 - $19... I haven't looked for it in my store here, but it looks like some of the styrofoam stuff i have used in some of my subs.
Thank you tsenecal! I went on-line ordered a sheet (about a half hour after you posted). The store called me to tell me the bad news. The sheet was damaged and they were so sorry, but they would give me a discount (it was only $8 and some change with tax) When I got there (my first shock was how big 4'x8' really is), the lady offered it at half off if that was o.k. - I said sure, if I must. I have enough foam to build the 1/72 Typhoon Akula - oh heck let us go 1/32!
Again thank you for the great direction! another piece off my list!
Tom, if you don't have a hot wire foam cutter, you can try an electric carving knife to cut the stuff. It works really well on the white stryofoam board I used on the train set, it should work ok for the pink stuff.
Jay
Anybody want to sell me Pink Foam? I searched and to no avail. I talked to a Home Depot and they can special order it for ~$1,500 (it appears there is a minimum order to get it in). Is there a different source or type?
Thank in advance!
@Jay, thank you, I do not have a foam cutter. Great suggestion.
@Mike Thank you! I think I am O.K., unless the pink has better bouyancy characteristics. Your thoughts are valued! White vs. Pink, sounds like a movie I remember...hmmm.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
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