Newbie no more - Building the Revell 1/72 Gato

[beeryboats]

Oh c#$p! Trout, I'm going to let you get a month ahead of me so I can learn by your build. I put the forward servo arms inboard to clear the rear ones and I had to rebend both those push rods so the receiver will fit. I'm not liking how hard it is to move the push rods. I bend, twist, and tweek the rods and they can still be a bear for the servo to push. Even with a little oil on them. But if you check my post I did get the belcrank for the fore plane retract rod set up. I still need to know what is used to connect the belcrank to the torque rod. Did you get a long magnet thing with your kit?

[trout]

Beeryboats, I feel your pain. Yes I did get the magnet. It should have been in your kit. Did you get the envelope I sent yet?

[beeryboats]

No, not yet. It takes a week at least. I'm going to pm you....
Jay

[matthewnimmo]

I'm going to admit....i'm a little scared Sh@tless about going through this process. I've purchased the conversion kit myself and should be here on wesdnesday. I'll have to assemble the sub-driver myself as the preassembled ones were not in stock; but just reviewing all these gato build documantaries .... seems like you all having to do a lot of McGuivering for these kits, hard to believe these are kits.

@beery & Trout: Reviewed both your guys' build diaries on the site....both have put in a lot of good work and your models are really coming alive:)

[trout]

matthewnimmo,
Welcome aboard! I will say this is stretching me, but I have learned so much in the process! I will speak for myself (although I know others here are of the same mind - no not the crazy part, but helpful part) if you have questions or need help, please do not hesitate to ask. Also post your build and inspire others. I have been inspired by those that have built/posted here like Chris (aka oztruck) and his Japanese I-25 or Jay (aka beeryboats) and his Gato build (we have been helping each other out) or David (no aka needed) who is extremely creative and has guided our builds or Mike who is willing to help me (a stranger) to see my sub become buoyant or how about that wild and creative Manfred? Have fun and it is your sub, you will make it your own (McGuivering is a good thing), but as someone offered to me, build from the dvd and you will have a great foundation to begin with.

[matthewnimmo]

:biggrin: Thanks i appreciate that trout. I'm going to have fun with this i'm certain of it...and it's nice to have a solid backbone of others that have "ventured these waters." Hell, I may even submit it to next years 2012 competition.

[trout]

Beeryboats, I am sorry, I should have posted this awhile ago. Here is how I strung the main power wire through the WTC. I may re-do this and use a different wire because I may want to run a servo or a secondary mini SNORT from the battery compartment and there is not much room once the wire supplied is installed.
It was Thanksgiving and my wife left the string out for tying up the turkey. I took that opportunity to snag a length of it. I tried to tie the string to the wire and pull it through, but that would not work. So I CA'd the string to the wire to keep the diameter as small as possible.

Since the string is much smaller, it went through with a little shaking, twisting, and jiggling.

Then using the string to pull and some long nose pliers to push the wire came through.

[beeryboats]

That wire is not like the red and black wire I got in the kit. David said to try grease not oil and try again. My tiny piano wire aircraft push rod with a z bend worked great until the tube came out. David says it's only held in with orings, so if it comes out again I'll pull the whole mess out and thread the wire then reassemble.
Jay

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That wire is not like the red and black wire I got in the kit. David said to try grease not oil and try again. My tiny piano wire aircraft push rod with a z bend worked great until the tube came out. David says it's only held in with orings, so if it comes out again I'll pull the whole mess out and thread the wire then reassemble.
Jay

There you go, Jay.

David

[trout]

I was able to squeak out some time today and worked on small stuff like filling seams, cleaning up (destroying weld lines) dents and rough areas, and creating push rods for the rudder/aft planes. Do not know if I will get more time until Monday (after we take the dog for her surgery to try and remove the cancer). Once the foam comes in (Thank you Mike!) I will make a push to get water test during this week (not sure if I am living in reality), but anguish to get the sub to a state were I can do some water testing.
Thank you all for your help and encouragement. Merry Christmas to you all!
Peace,
tom

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It's always a thrill to see our product integrated into a working r/c submarine.

David

[trout]

One of my push rods is really tight. I have used silicon on it and it is still extremely snug. I remember in the beginning there was someone else that had that issue and I will see if I can find the posting.

It has been quiet here, but things are happening. Working on the WTC, the servos are re-mounted per the advice on David in a prior post and documenting the push rods. I will post later. Also I have enough to purchase WFly 8ch transmitter and SL-8 receiver! Whooot! I am so excited about that! Working on getting the ADR too....we will see.
Side note Zoey (our dog) came through the surgery fine and is recovering. We have to wait to see what stage the cancer is, but she is drugged and doing good.

[trout]

I tried, but cannot find the posting about opening up the o-ring to allow smoother travel. I do remember that taking a 1/16" drill bit was a no-no. Should I take a piece of 1/16" brass rod, rough it up, spin it in the bushing? sand the rod down oh so slightly?
I am asking for suggestions and guidance!
Thank you.
Peace,
Tom

[trout]

Do I hear crickets? :-) Any suggestions for the tight o-ring?

[Anuci]

Now don't get yourself in a tissy Tommy me boy. If it were me, I'd try some steel wool on the pushrod to see if you may first tone it down some, this before doing anything that may compromise the seal itself are my thoughts. If still too tight, a very very fine round file, or maybe some very fine sandpaper around a piece of wire pushed thru the seal carefully once or twice until you get sufficient clearance. I would not think it wise to use a drill bit or anything so drastic.
Keep in mind, if you compromise the seal in any way, she's apt to suck in water with operation of the pushrod.
Some may say it better to have it a tad snug than too sloppy. Although, on the other hand, what's the worst that can occur, the need to replace the seal itself?, no biggie! I like using bellows over the pushrod on the wet side to help with its water tight integrity.
To each his own!

Al,