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Newbie no more - Building the Revell 1/72 Gato

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  • #76
    Now the fun part starts, finishing the hull/deck joint. I've sanded so much my shoulder and elbow are aching. I'm taking my little girl with me to the hobby shop to get some square alum tube for the drive shafts. Just a little experiment with two part spring loaded drive shafts. It should work slick if there is enough room.
    Jay

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    • #77
      You can edit your photos by simply double clicking on them in edit mode. A window will open up with choices of photo size. Medium or large are good. Its very easy and will enhance your entry here.
      Last edited by Kazzer; 11-26-2011, 11:08 AM.
      Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

      Comment


      • #78
        Thank you. Is this what you mean?
        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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        • #79
          Jay, You radical! You rebel! Trying a new idea? Come on share (with pictures please!).
          Originally posted by beeryboats View Post
          Now the fun part starts, finishing the hull/deck joint. I've sanded so much my shoulder and elbow are aching. I'm taking my little girl with me to the hobby shop to get some square alum tube for the drive shafts. Just a little experiment with two part spring loaded drive shafts. It should work slick if there is enough room.
          Jay
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment


          • #80
            Originally posted by trout View Post
            Jay, You radical! You rebel! Trying a new idea? Come on share (with pictures please!).
            Like this? ............

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            Resident Luddite

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            • #81
              David,
              Is the spring used to absorb vibration? Maintain pressure to prevent the ends from popping out? Please help the less informed!
              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

              Comment


              • #82
                Did a little finishing work on the hull. Maybe paint tomorrow and see how it looks.
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                WTC Issue
                David, I know you advised about 3” of space from the end of the WTC Dumas connectors and the propellor shaft Dumas connectors. That would mean moving my WTC forward. O.K. I shaped the end and got plenty of forward movement. Maybe I am over thinking this, but the whole WTC not only can go forward, but it shifts the longitudinal plane with an upward angle.
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                This angle does cause a couple of issues that I can see. The forward most end of the WTC will break above the waterline. In the flood chamber, the vent is at the lower point in the cylinder, trapping a large bubble. The only way to vent out the bubble is have a nose down attitude. If I had a vent on this higher portion, I would not be so concerned.
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                Your thoughts or solutions?
                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                Comment


                • #83
                  Originally posted by trout View Post
                  David,
                  Is the spring used to absorb vibration? Maintain pressure to prevent the ends from popping out? Please help the less informed!
                  The idea is to facilitate installation of the SD within the hull without messing with alignment of standard dog-bones at the same time. I can slip the running gear into place after the SD is installed and strapped down.

                  The inner square-section brass tube slides within the outer square-section brass tube (square so they are not free to rotate but are free to slide linearly). The compression spring pushes the inner tube, which is attached to the dog-bone, into the SD's motor shaft coupler.

                  David
                  Resident Luddite

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                  • #84
                    Very nice idea.....Hmmm. Jay, go for it! I like it and maybe do something like that on another build.
                    Right now, I need to resolve this WTC placement. I could take the road of fixing it properly and cut out the propellor shaft, realign it with the correct angle going in, redo the propellor shaft struts. Unless a better solution comes up, I will have to do that. David, if you do not think the angle will be a problem, please speak up.
                    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      My secret source of info told me the S/D is about 10-1/2" aft the bow. That's what I'm aiming for. I ended up cutting out one of the alignment pins on the bottom of the hull and it went down nice and level. I did bevel the forward cap on the driver as well. I'll go find the camera and post on my build forum.
                      Jay

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Originally posted by trout View Post
                        Very nice idea.....Hmmm. Jay, go for it! I like it and maybe do something like that on another build.
                        Right now, I need to resolve this WTC placement. I could take the road of fixing it properly and cut out the propellor shaft, realign it with the correct angle going in, redo the propellor shaft struts. Unless a better solution comes up, I will have to do that. David, if you do not think the angle will be a problem, please speak up.
                        An up-angle on the SD -- yes, a problem. As you observed, you won't get all the air out of the ballast tank if you do that.

                        Try this: chop off what you can off the forward and after ends of the cylinder. The shorter cylinder will then fit without necessitating the up-angle at the front of it.

                        Don't mess with the running gear.

                        David,
                        Resident Luddite

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          CUT THE TUBE???? AAAGHHHHH - Man, you are stretching me in all sorts of ways. BUT that is a great idea, I did not even consider that! O.K. any tips you would like to offer? Best practices? Thank you for your suggestions.
                          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Using the recommended big 11.1-volt battery you won't have any material to cut away from the forward end of the cylinder. That leaves the after dry space. First, dry-fit all your gadgets back there to identify how much cylinder back there you have to whack off (so to speak).

                            However, there is something fundamentally wrong here. I note that you already have a GATO SD of the 'new' configuration, which is a few inches shorter than the 'old' configuration. Find out what it is in the bottom of the hull that is preventing you from shoving the SD, as is, far enough forward to permit it to sit level and accept standard dog-bones between SD and running gear couplers.

                            But, if you do wind up cutting the cylinder, a band saw or hacksaw will get the job done with little effort.

                            David
                            Resident Luddite

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                            • #89
                              Jay,
                              Thank you. I shaped the forward portion as much as I could without cutting into the tube. Looking at the alignment pins is a good idea too! I will verify that the pins are not adding in the uplift of the wtc.
                              Peace,
                              tom
                              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                Seams
                                Decided to tackle creating some seams/weld lines. I have destroyed many as I joined the bow, aft, and installed the prop supports and I needed to see if I could recreate them or decide to remove all of them.
                                I had seen a build were tape was used and CA applied then baking powder was drizzled in. So that was one way. Then I thought why not put the baking powder in first then add CA. I saw David do that to build fillets. Another option is I could mix glaze and use that to create seams. Then I saw a build somewhere that the individual used thread drenched in CA. I decided to go with fill with baking powder then add CA.
                                To begin, I lined up a couple of pieces of painters blue tape. Rub the edges down with your fingernail and around cross seams that intersect the line you are building.
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                                Sprinkled baking powder on and pushed it into the gap between the tape. I even left a little extra on top of the seam.
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                                Applied thin CA and applied a drop. Then I used a piece of metal (actually a pocket clip from a pen) to move the CA up and down the seam. Then applied another sprinkling of baking powder to set any wet CA.
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                                Using 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper, began sanding the along the newly created seam. The goal is to knock down any high areas and use the tape as a depth guide.
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                                Removed the tape and I am left with a wonderful seam. A little bigger than I wanted, but a seam/weld anyways.
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                                The net one I put the tape pieces closer. I thought it might be too close, but as it turned out it was not. So the gap needed to be smaller than you would think.
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                                Then I went ahead and put some primer on to see how it looked. I like it.
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                                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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