Something to replace the Neptune - Short Typhoon?

[RCSubGuy]

Loving this project! I have plans to do the same, but with a Type VII to make it more cartooney. Maybe put a cartoon crew aboard, lights, et all...

[Subculture]

That is Colin Gross's model of Deep Quest, although he named it Ross Winan's

[redboat219]

Uncanny resemblance

[Ed Kirk]

That was my first goal but I seen the Du-Bro fuel tank and just liked it. I like it is transparent (sort of). It comes in many sizes but like anything these days it has to be ordered. Hobby shops are scarce and don't stock much for the builder.

[Subculture]

If you're printing your waterproof boxes, why not print the ballast tank too. Could incorporate it into the hull reducing its length and would also stiffen the hull considerably.

[Ed Kirk]

My pump module in final stage of completion, fits like a glove, just need to pass wires and tubing.

[Ed Kirk]

Original SSBN was converted from SSN cut in half and missile section added. There was some talk about converting decommissioned SSBN's and SSN's to emergency electrical power plants.

[redboat219]

A "What if" a mothballed SSBN was converted to an SSN with removal of the missile tubes.

[Ed Kirk]

I started this project with the idea of using clear tubing to enclose components and design and print my own end caps and seals, it has evolved into a modular system with components either in the water side or in enclosures that I design and print. My modular tanks are looking very promising, I can design any size or shape and print it, redesign and print other components to get desired results. I'm using square "O" ring material to seal the caps on my water tight enclosures similar to the seals used on doors and hatches on real submarines that fit flush. Just looking for a decent pump, my pump module is simply swapped out if I want to use something else. Sort of an after effect of using the Du-Bro fuel tank for ballast.

My real challenge is sealing the wires. Thinking about a cup setup that I backfill with epoxy resin to seal the wires, currently sizing and fitting my components. Pleased with progress, haven't decided if I am going to use external connectors or running wires directly from servos and motors into electronics compartment with permanent seals. And trying to keep it simple.

I really like the looks and design of the Typhoon, I just shortened it up to make it into a fun runabout hobby project and something to experiment with. Evolution in progress. The threaded rods in the lower hull sort of evolved, needed a way to mount components in the hull and an after effect is the ability to bolt sections together and exchange sections.

And 3D printing is insane, I used to make parts with CNC router, mill and lathe. They just collect dust in the garage. No more layup and casting fiberglass either.

[Subculture]

I recall OTW experimented with a vane style air pump in the early days of developing their own dive modules after Brian Cornelius stopped making the Craycraft dive modules, which were largely based on Nick Burge’s modular system. They eventually settled on a Shurflo pump, and latterly they seem to be using gear pumps in some of their modules.

Pressure wise it depends on the system being used, pressures tend to vary between virtually nothing for an aspirated tank, to perhaps one atmosphere to half fill a sealed tank.

I’d say a small geared pump using appropriate and good quality materials with easily replaceable parts would be the most useful as it can work on any system, but the elephant in the room is cost, which is likely to be high for a low volume item compared with mass produced items.

Something that may prove more simple is to get a Kavan pump, and make an adaption kit to take a smaller motor, as the pump head itself is not excessive in size. A small brushless outrunner or even a smaller brushed motor would significantly shrink the footprint.

[TuptubBuilder]

I don't want to hijack your thread but pumps are a real sticking point when it comes to this hobby (IMHO). It may be worth discussing at a Dive Tribe Meeting.

[Ed Kirk]

I'm working with this pump, fairly large and heavy, well constructed. Tested on bench pumping water between two large water bottles - nothing scientific but flow rate OK, I didn't get bored waiting for bottle to fill. I'm beginning to think I could use a smaller ballast tank, my system takes up a lot of space and I still have to locate the battery.

I have a Neptune and satisfied with the pump and bladder system, this pump seems to be on par with the time it takes to move water.

[TuptubBuilder]

A while back I built a crude rotary vane pump. It seemed to work quite well. A nice feature is that the vanes are the major wear item and are easily and cheaply replaced. I made them from .06" polystyrene sheet. Is there some way to establish specifications as to pump head pressure and flow rates that would satisfy most builds?
vanePump.mp4

[JHapprich]

Yes, i still have one original orange and severeal made in prc.
both work, though the french is 20years older

[Subculture]

The small orange pumps currently used in the R&R modules were a popular choice years ago. The original units were made in France and used brass gears, at some point production moved to China and the gears were then made from plastic, and the pumps are considerably less robust. Don’t know how well they hold up in Ron’s modules long term, but that system is aspirated which reduces strain on the pump gears.

Kavan pumps are quite popular and have brass gears, but they’re larger than the small orange pumps. If you don’t mind the extra work and expense, I expect a smaller motor could be fitted to the pump head, but not seen anyone do that to date.

The other pumps I’ve seen are units from China intended for either model aeroplane smoke creators and model digger/JCB hydraulics. These look well made from metal, but they’re designed to pump oils rather than water. They tend have an aluminium case, and gears are also listed as metal, so either brass or steel, either way not a good combination of metals when used in water.