Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

1/120 Akula

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
    Brass tube through the endcap sealed with RTV siliccone. You then slip the silicone tube over the brass tube and lock it inplace using zipties.
    Thanks for the input, Romel!

    I just scanned through several of David M. "Todays Work" blog, and I saw pages and pages of him using "Loctite Clear Silicone" I also recall on one of our Dive Tribe get togethers, he said 100% silicone was the best!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    Brass tube through the endcap sealed with RTV siliccone. You then slip the silicone tube over the brass tube and lock it inplace using zipties.

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Question?

    When installing silicone tubing through the end cap of the WTC, what adhesive or sealer is the best to prevent leakage? Is Permatex a good sealant or is 100% clear silicone better?

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Leave a comment:


  • GolfDudeomatic
    replied
    Wow! What 3D printer did you use to create this? I am assuming you printed the hull?

    Leave a comment:


  • mloo123
    replied
    Very cool mate. Very nice piece of engineering!

    Leave a comment:


  • SubDude
    replied
    And I just got done rearranging the components in my Columbia to move the batteries central to the hull and closer to the motor so the water tight box went forward where the batteries were. Also upgraded the bow and stern thrusters so it is ready to be re-trimmed and then it will be good to go for the season.

    Leave a comment:


  • mloo123
    replied
    Saw this modular system in YouTube. Looks cool as you can have ballast situated for the right balance.

    https://youtu.be/99UpUpTjD0I

    Leave a comment:


  • mloo123
    replied
    Thanks for the comments guys!

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by mloo123 View Post
    To the paint shop today. Using Tamiya Hull Red and Flat Black.

    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG20220507141033.jpg Views:	0 Size:	62.7 KB ID:	161543

    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_20220507_141413.jpg Views:	0 Size:	78.2 KB ID:	161544

    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_20220507_141439.jpg Views:	0 Size:	65.3 KB ID:	161545

    Painting masts...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20220507215451.jpg
Views:	186
Size:	57.5 KB
ID:	161550
    Secondly, I probably have addressed the main engine compartment leaks problem. As expected, the gland nut moved anitclockwise when the drive shaft is turning in same direction. Will apply some locktite and hoped no more leaking occurs doing further tests.
    miloo123,

    That is one nice looking boat! Your flat finish and color scheme looks great! Well done in my opinion!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Leave a comment:


  • vital.spark
    replied
    Very Nicely done. I'm impressed! In the future you should consider using a 2 part automotive paint which over has far superior abrasion resistance than model paint. I followed David's advice from the beginning and never looked back on this decision. Of course that your decision to make. I had some made up back in 2010 and am still able use it!

    Leave a comment:


  • mloo123
    replied
    Ballast weights...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20220507144144.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	74.8 KB
ID:	161547

    Hooking up altogether...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20220507154046.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	68.1 KB
ID:	161548

    Leave a comment:


  • mloo123
    replied
    To the paint shop today. Using Tamiya Hull Red and Flat Black.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG20220507141033.jpg Views:	0 Size:	62.7 KB ID:	161543

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220507_141413.jpg Views:	0 Size:	78.2 KB ID:	161544

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220507_141439.jpg Views:	0 Size:	65.3 KB ID:	161545

    Painting masts...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20220507215451.jpg
Views:	186
Size:	57.5 KB
ID:	161550
    Secondly, I probably have addressed the main engine compartment leaks problem. As expected, the gland nut moved anitclockwise when the drive shaft is turning in same direction. Will apply some locktite and hoped no more leaking occurs doing further tests.
    Last edited by mloo123; 05-07-2022, 10:00 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by mloo123 View Post
    Normally when you turned the gland nut, the seal will be compressed near the nut openings more as they usually not in100% linear motion. Or sometimes when compressed, the middle portion of the seal will collapse first, depending on the design on the nut and body.

    For this case as the internal shape of the nut isn't flat but tapered, thus the seal frontal end surface will be compressed in more than the rear end. It's the same as those conventional non IP67 rated cable glands (as per your pic) but have more bite to it.

    Friction is unavoidable in both scenarios... The more you compressed for more sealing, frictions will still occur. Best option is still with the used of stuffing box with shaft bushings and grease inside, if there's no space constrains...
    Oh. Wasn't aware the seal has a tapered inside.

    Leave a comment:


  • mloo123
    replied
    Normally when you turned the gland nut, the seal will be compressed near the nut openings more as they usually not in100% linear motion. Or sometimes when compressed, the middle portion of the seal will collapse first, depending on the design on the nut and body.

    For this case as the internal shape of the nut isn't flat but tapered, thus the seal frontal end surface will be compressed in more than the rear end. It's the same as those conventional non IP67 rated cable glands (as per your pic) but have more bite to it.

    Friction is unavoidable in both scenarios... The more you compressed for more sealing, frictions will still occur. Best option is still with the used of stuffing box with shaft bushings and grease inside, if there's no space constrains...

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by mloo123 View Post
    Same concept used but with an o ring as its seals instead which is equally good.
    Aren't O-ring better than a cylindrical shaped seal as there's less surface area in contact with the moving shaft ( drive and control) therefore less friction/ binding.
    Last edited by redboat219; 05-04-2022, 12:21 AM.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X