1:72 Gato; 2.5" Sub Driver; Polk Seeker 6 Receiver?

[wlambing]

Good Morning, and Happy Dia De Los Muertos!

For better fitment, I'm trying to use a brand-new subject receiver in my cylinder. Where would I plug in the UBEC? If I use "Batt/Ch 5", I'll lose Ch 5? Not desirable, as I need that channel to operate something. Remove the UBEC and just go with the ESC as 5V power? (currently-red wire disconned) With this receiver and the Tracker III xmitter, Chs 5 and 6 are on rotary knobs. I intend to use Ch 2 (Elev) for the bow planes manual override and Ch 5 or 6 for Bow Planes Retract or stern planes override.

Is there anyone out there in the wise-ass on a hill category that can impart wisdom based on experience using the Polk gear? Am I gonna have to go back to the VEX rdo combo (much bigger!)??

[RCSubGuy]

Most receivers use a power bus that extends across all channel outputs. Just use a y-splitter on any channel, plug in your UBEC and it will power the receiver.

Remember to disconnect the red (power) lead from the servo output of any components such as ESCs that have a built in BEC.

[wlambing]

Thanks, Bob! Hadn't thought of a splitter! Now, where did I put those....?

[wlambing]

Splitter idea didn't work. Also tried applying power through the "Set" button position, but that didn't work, either. Disconned the UBEC and re-did the red ESC wire. Stuff works! Had to reset the receiver to the rdo a couple of times during the process. A new round of sorting and arranging later today. May even get to the Depot to build a new PVC pipe stand. That little styrene one isn't gonna cut it!

[wlambing]

Ended up replacing the Polk Seeker 6 receiver as it started acting really wonky. Programmed up a Sombra SL-8 and it works like a champ! One problem; the LP Blower quit working!! I know signals are moving around, 'cos I troubleshot the harness and get good movement at the blow/vent servo. So, how do I get a new LPB for the 2.5" Sub Driver? I could go straight gas like in the old days and use a SubTech Subsafe as the failsafe (or the receiver feature!), but I'd like to keep her true to how it was purchased.

Side Question: Is the Battery Link & Monitor 'sposedta get hot like that?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ended up replacing the Polk Seeker 6 receiver as it started acting really wonky. Programmed up a Sombra SL-8 and it works like a champ! One problem; the LP Blower quit working!! I know signals are moving around, 'cos I troubleshot the harness and get good movement at the blow/vent servo. So, how do I get a new LPB for the 2.5" Sub Driver? I could go straight gas like in the old days and use a SubTech Subsafe as the failsafe (or the receiver feature!), but I'd like to keep her true to how it was purchased.

Side Question: Is the Battery Link & Monitor 'sposedta get hot like that?

Is the problem traced to the BLM or the LPB? Clarify, you Weld-Grinding/wrench-jockey... CLARIFY!

And no, the BLM board should never get much over room-temperature.

Is the LPB motor seized? Check it!

David
Lord High Inquisitor

[wlambing]

Problem seems to be the LPB Controller (a VERY small board mounted on the motor of this tiny blue plastic air pump). Removed the BLM from circuit, jumpered power/signal leads as appropriate, and still get nothing when a blow is commanded. I could check the pump rotation after I destroy the casing, as someone has glued on 0.010" slabs of white styrene on the sides to make it non-openable. Once I get those off, I guess there are 2 tabs to squeeze while lifting case slabs off the pump innards. Or, do I do something with the hole that's in line with the motor/pump eccentric drive thingie?

If necessary, I will convert to an only gas system and go from there. A shame to not use the nice snorkel head valve and stuff, but that does free up real estate for the SubSafe unit. And, I could install a larger gas bottle for more blowage. ;)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Problem seems to be the LPB Controller (a VERY small board mounted on the motor of this tiny blue plastic air pump). Removed the BLM from circuit, jumpered power/signal leads as appropriate, and still get nothing when a blow is commanded. I could check the pump rotation after I destroy the casing, as someone has glued on 0.010" slabs of white styrene on the sides to make it non-openable. Once I get those off, I guess there are 2 tabs to squeeze while lifting case slabs off the pump innards. Or, do I do something with the hole that's in line with the motor/pump eccentric drive thingie?

If necessary, I will convert to an only gas system and go from there. A shame to not use the nice snorkel head valve and stuff, but that does free up real estate for the SubSafe unit. And, I could install a larger gas bottle for more blowage. ;)

There's a small 'weep' hole in the blue pump housing. Poke a small screw-driver up in there, and push the round disc that forms a fit to the motor drive shaft and see if you can swing the armature around. If not, the motor is the bad-guy. If so, likely the electronic motor controller is toast. Let me know -- I have spares, you nasty old Auxiliaryman, you.



Don't you dare goof around with God's good intentions -- SAS is good! (channeling a bit of Ayn Rand there... not sorry).

David

[wlambing]

I did try poking a toothpick up in the hole and got a small arc of movement, then no more. Tried from the opposite side, got nothing. Looks like the motor and controller combo. Could you throw one or two of these things in with my Skipjack cylinder? Let me know what you consider fair compensation and I will make that happen. Meantime, more painting and other detaily stuff shall happen!! :)