R&R WTC motor shaft Seal... Help needed

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  • Wax Savage
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade

    • Jun 2025
    • 32

    #1

    R&R WTC motor shaft Seal... Help needed

    Hi guys. I’m prepping a 70mm R&R WTC equipped with dual motors for Subfest 2026. I’m not coming up with a way to retain the 4mm driveshaft’s screw-on endcaps used as a water-seal.

    The endcaps hold a 4mm I.D. silicone O-ring inside (see photo). When I run the motors the driveshafts grip the O-ring/endcap assembly and spin the endcaps off or, on depending on whether the motors are running forward or reverse. Tightening the endcap is not an option. If I screw the endcaps on fully, the O-rings get squashed and bind up the driveshaft/motor. Also, the endcap gets hot quickly.


    Anyone familiar with R&R WTC’s come up with a fix for this problem?

    Thanks!!
    Wax Savage
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Wax Savage; Yesterday, 01:23 PM.
  • redboat219
    Admiral

    • Dec 2008
    • 3621

    #2
    threadlock?
    Bore out the endcap hole slightly larger than 4mm
    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

    Comment

    • Subculture
      Admiral

      • Feb 2009
      • 2557

      #3
      Are you running the shafts in the dry? They're designed to run solely in the wet which cools the assembly and the water lubricates the seal.

      Comment

      • Wax Savage
        Lieutenant, Junior Grade

        • Jun 2025
        • 32

        #4
        Originally posted by redboat219
        threadlock?
        Bore out the endcap hole slightly larger than 4mm
        Thanks for the reply. Threadlock may be good. Do you know if thread-lock is waterproof? Bob suggested using super-glue on the threads to lock the endcap. Why do you recommend the over-bore on the endcap? What is your experience?
        Thanks!
        Wax
        Last edited by Wax Savage; 06-21-2026, 04:31 PM.

        Comment

        • Wax Savage
          Lieutenant, Junior Grade

          • Jun 2025
          • 32

          #5
          Originally posted by Subculture
          Are you running the shafts in the dry? They're designed to run solely in the wet which cools the assembly and the water lubricates the seal.
          I am testing the WTC/driveshafts on my workbench at the moment. The endcaps spin on tight or spin completely loose when I run the motors. I did not intend to attempt imersion of the WTC in water until I had the driveshaft water seals (endcaps) secured.
          Wax
          Last edited by Wax Savage; Yesterday, 01:24 PM.

          Comment

          • redboat219
            Admiral

            • Dec 2008
            • 3621

            #6
            Shaft might be catching on endcap causing it to turn.
            Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

            Comment

            • Fishb0y
              Lieutenant Commander

              • Jul 2023
              • 150

              #7
              I’m curious why you’re not following Bob’s advice?
              Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to go on an overnight drunk, and in 10 days I'm going to set out to find the shark that ate my friend and destroy it. Anyone who wants to tag along is more than welcome.

              Comment

              • Subculture
                Admiral

                • Feb 2009
                • 2557

                #8
                Not generally advisable to use silicone grease or oil on silicone rubber. You should use a ptfe grease
                Last edited by Subculture; 06-22-2026, 11:19 AM.

                Comment

                • Wax Savage
                  Lieutenant, Junior Grade

                  • Jun 2025
                  • 32

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Fishb0y
                  I’m curious why you’re not following Bob’s advice?
                  I am intending to use Bob's recommendation. This thread is to research any possible cures others have discovered/developed before I commit to putting CA glue on machine threads.

                  Comment

                  • RCSubGuy
                    Welcome to my underwater realm!

                    • Aug 2009
                    • 2016

                    #10
                    I just ordered some 4mm cup seals off of Amazon (thanks to Nicholas' DiveTribe link). I'll whip up some housings for them. In theory, I could make them a simple install over the existing R&R output seal housings. Should have something ready for testing by the end of the week. I'll show them in this week's video.

                    Comment

                    • Subculture
                      Admiral

                      • Feb 2009
                      • 2557

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Wax Savage
                      ] BTW.., reference your suggestion, did you mean PENN REEL GREASE?
                      Sorry autocorrect messed up my post, it should have read PTFE grease.

                      You can contact Permatex and ask them if your lubricant is suitable for silicone o-rings.

                      I've never had an issue with o-ring glands, they work well enough especially if not going for very high speed drive. They're more common in the UK becaus o-rings were simply a lot easier to source and even those could be hard to find in certain sizes- it was really difficult finding stuff for this hobby before the internet opened up supply chains. The builders of much legacy hardware stick with what is tried and tested.

                      Ron Perrott used to supply the glands with a locking ring, but he seems to have discontinued them on his later products, perhaps he felt them unnecessary as even a locking collar can loosen without some kind of thread locking compound. You can also use blue Loctite anaerobic thread locker like 242 or 243, which should prevent the threads from unwinding but still allow the seal to be cracked open if required for maintenance.

                      Comment

                      • Wax Savage
                        Lieutenant, Junior Grade

                        • Jun 2025
                        • 32

                        #12
                        Originally posted by RCSubGuy
                        I just ordered some 4mm cup seals off of Amazon (thanks to Nicholas' DiveTribe link). I'll whip up some housings for them. In theory, I could make them a simple install over the existing R&R output seal housings. Should have something ready for testing by the end of the week. I'll show them in this week's video.
                        Thanks for stepping up, Bob. I will hold off on gluing the R&R endcaps on until I hear more about your proposed 'aftermarket' endcaps research.
                        Last edited by Wax Savage; 06-22-2026, 12:56 PM.

                        Comment

                        • trout
                          Admiral

                          • Jul 2011
                          • 3713

                          #13
                          Help me understand we’re in my memory banks I have a wire crossed. I thought the rule was:
                          silicon o-rings and silicon oil = bad
                          petroleum o-rings and petroleum oil = bad
                          silicon o-rings and petroleum oil = good
                          petroleum o-rings and silicon oil = good
                          Did I mis-remember these rules? Is the world topsy-turvy?
                          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                          Comment

                          • redboat219
                            Admiral

                            • Dec 2008
                            • 3621

                            #14
                            According to Google Gemini

                            The fundamental rule of chemical compatibility for polymers and lubricants is "like dissolves like." When an O-ring material chemically resembles the lubricant applied to it, the elastomer absorbs the fluid, causing it to swell, soften, lose its structural integrity, and ultimately fail.

                            Here is the breakdown of your four statements:

                            1. Silicone O-rings + Silicone Oil = BAD (True)
                            • What happens: The silicone O-ring will absorb the silicone oil.
                            • The result: Extreme swelling, softening, and tearing under pressure.
                            • Exception: Fluorosilicone (FVMQ) is an engineered alternative that resists this cross-contamination better than standard silicone.

                            2. Petroleum O-rings + Petroleum Oil = BAD (False)
                            • Correction: This is actually a GOOD combination.
                            • Why: The most common "petroleum-resistant" O-rings are made of Nitrile (NBR/Buna-N), Viton (FKM), or Neoprene. These materials are explicitly designed to withstand mineral oils, grease, and fuels without degrading.
                            • Note: If you meant natural rubber (which is rare in industrial sealing), petroleum would indeed rot it. However, standard oil-resistant O-rings love petroleum.
                            3. Silicone O-rings + Petroleum Oil = GOOD (False)
                            • Correction: This is a BAD combination.
                            • What happens: Standard silicone rubber has incredibly poor resistance to petroleum products, mineral oils, and fuels.
                            • The result: The petroleum causes the silicone matrix to degrade, swell heavily, and fail quickly.

                            4. Petroleum O-rings + Silicone Oil = GOOD (True)
                            • Why: Nitrile (NBR), Neoprene, and EPDM O-rings do not share chemical structures with silicone.
                            • The result: Silicone oil or grease acts as an excellent, completely inert lubricant that helps install these O-rings without causing any swelling or degradation.
                            Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                            Comment

                            • Subculture
                              Admiral

                              • Feb 2009
                              • 2557

                              #15
                              Seems to be conflicting information out there e.g.

                              O-ring grease - Silicone & PTFE by Polymax is water repellent, resistant to oxidation, non-toxic, non-melting and resistant to a wide range of chemicals.

                              Comment

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