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Make it simple, make strong, make it work! -
If in fresh water no need to 'waterproof' batteries (yes... yes, even Lithium-polymer), switches, wiring, or light sources. Regular post mission checks and preservation measures will deal with the 'green slime'.
(said the guy who entertains himself blowing up batteries).Who is John Galt? -
Heat shrink does wonders to waterproof a battery, but be sure to get clear as you'll be able to see condensation or water if, for whatever reason, your sealing on the ends fails.Comment
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No lipo. Just ordinary alkaline or carbon zinc.
Saw this but prefer one in AAA
The one I have is AAA but lacks the waterproof seals. If I can't find one, might just use it but I'll seal the switch in ON position with RTV silicone then seal the box in electrical tape.
Last edited by redboat219; 02-10-2025, 11:50 PM.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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For sure a different animal!!No lipo. Just ordinary alkaline or carbon zinc.
Saw this but prefer one in AAA
The one I have is AAA but lacks the waterproof seals. If I can't find one, might just use it but I'll seal the switch in ON position with RTV silicone then seal the box in electrical tape.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Comment
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Seems like someone is going thru a lot of trouble to light an LED or two. It would be a lot easier to run a watertight thru bulkhead positive and a ground from the ship's drive battery to where the LEDs are. Then in conjunction with a 1/8 watt resistor or two (Use the LED calculator Luke) match the drive power to the LED-the cheaper way to go. Or you could use an LED driver chip but I am pretty sure that it won't support parallel LED arrays.
Also since the power would be coming from the dry space-it would be easy to remotely turn it on or off with an RC switch.-BG
Last edited by Bob Gato; 02-11-2025, 02:51 PM.Comment
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Redboat,
I was wondering how long a super capacitor or a bank of super caps (like the ones used in an electric torpedo) will drive an LED using the appropriate resistor. Someday I'll have to test that. No in the wet problems there ...and you could charge them up with two contacts unseen on the bottom of the hull or get creative and use two metal anythings on the outside of the hull-BGLast edited by Bob Gato; 02-11-2025, 03:12 PM.Comment
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take a 3v coin battery like 2032 and put it in a holder. Then that all can go into a balloon or shrink tube. Just offering a suggestion.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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All this concern with lipo safety, and yet I suspect everyone here merrily strolls around with a high capacity one bolted in those dopamine rectangles located inches away from the old crown jewels.Comment
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They can get unstable when they get old. Look up lithium dendrites. They cause a short circuit if the anode cathode membrane is pierced.
Keep an eye on them when charging, if they’re old charge them at no more than half their current rating. LiFe chemistry is much more stable than lipo, the trade-off is they have a slightly lower capacity, less of an issue in subs as they can usually afford the extra weight, unlike aeroplanes where every ounce makes a difference.
when solid state batteries hit the market all these issues should be a thing of the past, but they’re not quite there yet for mass production.Comment
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15 minutes of light, recharges in 45 seconds.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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There's a boatload of LEDs on that board in that 5 Watt light and you get 15 minutes of runtime from two super capacitors? That's impressive I wonder how many minutes you would get for one red one green and one white micro LED. I think you would get all day at the pond without having to recharge and recharge takes 30 to 45 seconds.
Last edited by Bob Gato; 02-13-2025, 02:27 PM.Comment
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