Acrylic//PMMA cylinders under pressure

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  • Subculture
    Admiral

    • Feb 2009
    • 2329

    #1

    Acrylic//PMMA cylinders under pressure

    Someone was chatting about a acrylic/pmma cylinder developing stress cracks which they thought may be due to internal pressure from the piston ballast system.

    I think this is very unlikely, as a piston ballast system is unlikely to develop the kind of high pressures required inside the cylinder as a jack screw becomes exceeding inefficient when working against a high load, and to cause enough stress to crack the cylinder would need to be pushing tens of psi to bust the cylinder walls.

    My main suspect would be internal stresses in the material. Acrylic/PMMA is highly variable in quality, and in conjunction with the stresses imparted in the extrusion process during manufacture, cracks can form if inferior grades have been used and also if the material has been machined poorly and/or not normalised after being worked.

    I personally think clear cylinders are overrated- they look very slick, but the cons can outweigh the advantages. Generally a transparent cylinder will mean using acrylic/pmma or polycarbonate/lexan. The latter is much tougher, but is notch sensitive and expensive. Acrylic is stiffer but more brittle.

    PVC tubing is far more forgiving, it’s very tough, machines nicely and is cheap. Usually it’s filled making it opaque, some say they like a clear cylinder to spot leaks, however my experience is that clear cylinders tend to turn silver underwater, and once it’s inside a hull you certainly can’t see anything unless that’s transparent too, also it’s very difficult to spot where the leak is entering unless the cylinder is pressurised in which case an opaque cylinder gives a telltale of bubbles just as capably.

    If PVC has any disadvantage it’s simply that the range of sizes commonly available tend to be a bit more restrictive than other materials, however most common sizes are usually suitable unless you’re building something very specific, and a collar can be machined or printed if you need to step the tubing size down to fit an existing endcap.














  • neitosub
    Lieutenant Commander

    • Nov 2021
    • 145

    #2
    Ultimately depends on what you can easily source, depending on where you're located in the world. In my case it's actually easier to source clear polycarbonate cylinders that have matching inner diameters to commercially available O-rings. Whereas it's hard to find O-rings that fit the inner diameters of commonly available PVC pipes from the hardware store.

    I do believe a clear cylinder is much more helpful when it comes to making sure that linkages and servo horns are moving correctly once every thing is installed. Plus you can see the status LEDs of RC electronics, as well as inspecting for potential condensation post-mission.

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    • RCSubGuy
      Welcome to my underwater realm!

      • Aug 2009
      • 1911

      #3
      I agree with Neitosub. Clear definitely has it's advantages. The biggest, in my opinion, is immediate visible confirmation of water integrity. Even seeing condensation can indicate a small leak. With an opaque container, you have to open it and run your fingers over everything. What I did in the Stingray upgrades was put a clear window in the watertight box. You can see inside, and condensation will gather on the clear plastic, giving quick reference for a leak.

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      • redboat219
        Admiral

        • Dec 2008
        • 3354

        #4
        Was pondering the other day about a simple wtc that didn't require a 3D printer or lathe to make the endcaps and be readily available.

        Using PVC pipes was at the top. Cheap and easy to procure. For the endcaps one could use those cleanout plugs. Click image for larger version

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ID:	188803 These come with screw threads and are sealed with o-rings.

        To get around the inability to see inside a clear window can be glued to one side.

        There's this idea that I'm considering, would it be possible to combine the clean out plugs with the clear tubing? Epoxy or RTV the clean out plugs to the end of acrylic/lexan tube.
        Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

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        • neitosub
          Lieutenant Commander

          • Nov 2021
          • 145

          #5
          I experimented with the Valterra bayonet endcap that's used in their RV plumbing system many years ago and the results were mixed. I had leaking due to manufacturing defects or poor tolerances. Really depends on the brand and the quality off the shelf. Gluing commercially available plumbing endcaps to clear cylinders will work, provided that you can find matching diameters of cylinders.

          I used external rubber couplers as sealing in the first iteration of my Type II's WTC. These sealed well underwater, only drawback was that they required significant effort to remove.

          Comment

          • Subculture
            Admiral

            • Feb 2009
            • 2329

            #6
            You can make endcaps with plastic sheet and handtools.

            You do need to know how to use basic handtools and work within reasonable tolerance, this requires a bit of knowledge (lots of good instructional vids on youtube, some of the really old black and white ones are best) and then lots of practice, which is the bit most people don't like.

            Machine tools make things quicker and easier, but almost everything on a model submarine can be made with simple hand tools.
            Last edited by Subculture; 06-27-2025, 03:44 PM.

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