German Type 212A 3D Print Build

[rwtdiver]

Today looked like it was going to be a challenging day for sure!



I was going to start cutting the floatation foam for the upper hull of the 212. I am using one of those sectional thin bladed box knives. When I started the first cut, I knew I was going to be in trouble. I just turned 80 years old yesterday, my eyesight is not the best anymore, and I take Eliquis 2 times a day. For those of you that may not know what Eliquis is, well it is a blood thinner. Not a good combination here for sure.. :-((

I had just started the cutting process, when in walked my wonderful wife, and her statement was! This looks like a trip to the ER for sure.



She then presented me with a wonderful Dremel Scroll Saw!:-))

This saw attaches to a desk top, and with a small hand vac that I had, it made a perfect saw for cutting out the foam pieces that I needed.



I did get a little carried away with cutting the foam pieces. Never know when I might need more of them. My wife really surprised me, and saved the day! She may have also saved a severed artery, and a trip to the ER.... :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[biggsgolf]

Thanks Rob!

[rwtdiver]

Rob, can you direct me to where you purchased the inserts and screws?
Bruce

Hi Bruce,





These are the brass inserts that I use. I got them off Amazon. Using these in PLA is quite simple. I bore a hole just a little smaller than the brass insert, and then I use a standard 30 watt soldering iron with the heated point, push the insert into the hole, but DO NOT let the iron sit to long, just enough to get the insert into the hole. I then apply THIN CA very carefully around the edge not to get any CA into the threads.

Hopes this helps Bruce!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

ditto................

Thanks David,

I will certainly make the change!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Rob,

Please switch to flat head, countersunk screws, SO much prettier, and in keeping with the rest of the boat's appearance! ;)

wlambing (How about at least a first name on this forum)

I appreciate your input, and will make that change!:-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Rob,

Please switch to flat head, countersunk screws, SO much prettier, and in keeping with the rest of the boat's appearance! ;)

ditto................

[wlambing]

Rob,

Please switch to flat head, countersunk screws, SO much prettier, and in keeping with the rest of the boat's appearance! ;)

[biggsgolf]

I know some of my photos might be somewhat boring, but it is all part of the build!



I installed the brass inserts for the stainless steel hold down screws for the stern and bow of the upper hull.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

Rob, can you direct me to where you purchased the inserts and screws?
Bruce

[rwtdiver]

I know some of my photos might be somewhat boring, but it is all part of the build!



I installed the brass inserts for the stainless steel hold down screws for the stern and bow of the upper hull.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Today I fabricated and installed the stern and bow hold down brackets for the hull top section.





Next I will install brass inserts for the stainless steel hold down screws.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Today I had a little bit of fitting work to do. The top hull section would not fit the bottom hull section.



To the sanding board I went. I do not have any power sander for this job, so all hand work!





After about an hour of sanding, I finally relieved the approximately 1/8" to get the top section to fit.



Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[biggsgolf]

Good work Rob!

[rwtdiver]

Today has been one of those days that went well!



I have the stern section now attached and secured to the bottom hull section.



I also installed the "X" tail linkages, and they operate properly! :-))



Not a very clear photo showing the prop shaft installed along with the linkage and everything works in the clear. Note: Again I will give Bob Martin (Nautilus Drydocks) credit for the "X" tail linkage design. It really does work well, you just need to take your time follow his schematics and pay attention to his build video, (and maybe a little cussing) and it will work...

Next inline will be the installation of the flotation foam and the ballast weights.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Last night I masked off the hull exteriors in preparation for the interior sealing work.



I applied one light coat of two part finishing resin. Let it dry 12 hours, and then one light coat of primer, and one coat of spray on grey rust-oleum paint.





Prior to applying the interior seal coats, I masked off the areas where the weights (in the bottom) and the foam (in the top) will be attached to the hull sections. Leaving these areas clear of the sealer will allow for better adhesion for the weights and the foam.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Early this AM I was able to get the rudder/dive plane linkages all hooked up, and to my surprise they work properly!





I also installed the brass sleeve for propeller shaft. The stern section is now ready to be attached to the bottom hull section.

All in all, I think the linkage system that Bob has designed for his German 212 A kits is very much workable. Just follow the video and use the templates.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."