German Type 212A 3D Print Build
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Here it is 1:30 AM in the morning and I think I have just finished my 212, except for trimming and the finish work.
To
I lined up the control surfaces in order to be sure that they were centered as close as possible. I then locked the control rods to the linkages using wheel collars so I would have a way to adjust the linkages if they needed it.
This boat will be in the pool tomorrow morning for the cylinder leak testing and then onto the trim work! If all goes well I will do a couple of runs around the pool! I will try and get some video of the run.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
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Looking good Rob! Glad you found some time, I hope your wife is doing well.
BruceLeave a comment:
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Today I found sometime to do a little more on my 212 Boat.
I cut and threaded a 5mm brass rod and mounted the prop. And then I really got lucky (and this dose not happen very often) and the shaft lined up perfectly to the motor shaft. At that point I installed a stainless steel 5mm universal joint and it works great!
Tomorrow I will start in on the control surface leakages, and as far as I can see they will need a little bending here and there, and with magnetic couplers we will have the control surfaces working great as well.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
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Thanks Bob,Looking awesome, Rob!
I could see in the photos how the spray paint melted the foam flotation blocks a bit. If you're going to paint foam, it should normally be done with acrylics. Light dustings of normal rattle can paint can work, but you need to keep the first couple of coats really light, let them dry, and then add more as the first layers form a barrier.
Other things foam doesn't like include CA glue, solvents of any kind, and almost any heat source...
Should have known better!:-(( Pink could have been a better choice. I attached the foam, weights, and the velcro with silicon adhesive which really worked well.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Leave a comment:
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Looking awesome, Rob!
I could see in the photos how the spray paint melted the foam flotation blocks a bit. If you're going to paint foam, it should normally be done with acrylics. Light dustings of normal rattle can paint can work, but you need to keep the first couple of coats really light, let them dry, and then add more as the first layers form a barrier.
Other things foam doesn't like include CA glue, solvents of any kind, and almost any heat source...👍 1Leave a comment:
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Today I prepared our swimming pool for the summer and (cool morning sub runs)
I also made sometime to install the velcro straps for holding in place the 300 series Easy Driver.
I now have both the upper and lower hull sections ready for the Easy Driver. Next I will tie in the rudder/dive plane linkage and the propeller shaft, and after this is complete we will start in on the trimming the boat out.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
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More work on the bottom hull section of the 212.
I have prepared the cylinder saddles for the Velcro hold down ties.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
I will be using clear silicon adhesive for securing the Velcro to the saddlesLeave a comment:
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I have managed to work in some sub building time today!
I have finished securing (gluing) using silicone adhesive the ballast weights to the bottom hull section of the 212.
I am also starting to work on the Stickleback again.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
Last edited by rwtdiver; 04-15-2024, 12:31 PM.Leave a comment:
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Lots going on, but I am still finding some time to work on my 212!
I finished the installation of the foam inside the upper hull. I also gave it a coat of spray paint to sort of clean up the look.
I Have the weights set out and ready for installation. I will be using Loctite clear silicone waterproof sealant, did some sample glue ups, and it works great. Same as what I used on the foam
installation.
On the side: My wife's broken arm is healing up quite nicely, but now she will be going in for some knee surgery, I will be her caregiver, and the sub building will slow down a bit. But that is how it should be!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Leave a comment:
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Thanks Steven,
As for the Dremel tool! My wife knew that I had been looking at it, but, yes she is such a supporter of my hobbies, and I can't say enough about her!
As for the tool itself the amazon link below is the one I have.
As for the amount of foam in my 212, I have listed below Bob's build blog on that boat listed below.
Nautilus Drydocks 1:72 German Type 212 Instructions CH2 (youtube.com)
And I am going as close as to what he has in his kit. But, I do agree that I should do some pre-trim before the final installation.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Leave a comment:
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That seems like a lot of foam (more to the point 'buoyancy') for the model? Arrange the foam and play with it, lead weights too. don't glue lock anything in till you have a good idea how much or how little nd TYT. The 212 does has a higher freeboard.
Wish my wife could read a workshop like that and provide the right tool. She doesn't know a screwdriver from a hammer. and her dad as a professor of structural engineering too. :( . I am on my own.Last edited by Albacore 569; 04-06-2024, 03:32 PM.😞 1Leave a comment:
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Thanks Bill,
Yes! I do have a very special lady in my life, and she is all in with our hobby...
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Leave a comment:
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Rob,
All turned out well, indeed! Much better than the fireman's quote from "Something About Mary"; "We've got a bleeder!!" Your woman is definitely a keeper! Mine would have handed me some busted yard clippers and told me to go to town with those!
Take care,
BillLeave a comment:
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