1/12 Seehund build - LWB

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  • tifosi12
    Commander
    • Jul 2020
    • 346

    1/12 Seehund build - LWB

    Got the 3D files from Oto and started to work on this project. I have a 2.5" Caswell SD (from my unfortunate type XXIII project), which I plan on using in this sub, same single prop, similar size. Oto has his own method of joining the sections and opening the sub, which is not my preferred way, so I plan on modifying the STL files to fit my plans.

    So far so good, except that my SD is slightly too long for the sub. So I'll have to stretch it by a little bit. In the car industry they call that Long Wheel Base (LWB) as opposed to regular or short wheel base. To make sure that now all the puzzle pieces will fit together, I decided to build first a model of the model: Shrink the 1/12 pieces to 1/24 scale, which cuts printing time to 1/4. With that I should be able to figure out where to stretch the "chassis", where to add the support mounts for the SD and where to cut the tube for a horizontal opening vs the designed vertical split. This will also give me a better idea on how to incorporate posts for magnets to close the lid.

    I had some rough experiences with plastic model kit conversions and figured that my personal best way forward is with buying 3D files, which I can then alter to my liking. My skills with 3D files beat my modeling skills of plastic kits by a wide margin (not that I'm a 3D expert, but I really suck at altering plastic kits). And yes...of course I still have a bunch of plastic model kits in my storage bin waiting to be turned into functioning subs. Oh well.

    So with that, I pledge to keep you guys posted on my progress. Until I either hit a wall (not the first time) or the sub the water (preferred outcome).
  • tifosi12
    Commander
    • Jul 2020
    • 346

    #2
    I guess I just jinxed myself with this thread: This morning my 3D printer croaked. At least that gave me a good excuse to order a newer and better one. But it will also sideline this effort for at least a week.

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    • trout
      Admiral
      • Jul 2011
      • 3545

      #3
      Don't you love it when that happens!
      I have found the same thing happens when running subs. Something seems to happen that a once perfect running sub will all of a sudden have an issue or something just does not work like it did a run before. I reckon we learn to roll with the punches.
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

      Comment

      • rwtdiver
        Vice Admiral
        • Feb 2019
        • 1770

        #4
        Originally posted by tifosi12
        I guess I just jinxed myself with this thread: This morning my 3D printer croaked. At least that gave me a good excuse to order a newer and better one. But it will also sideline this effort for at least a week.
        tifosi12! Yep they sure do croak!

        Click image for larger version

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        I got my moneys worth on this Dremel 7 years and thousand of hours of printing!

        Rob
        "Firemen can stand the heat"

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        • tifosi12
          Commander
          • Jul 2020
          • 346

          #5
          Originally posted by trout
          Don't you love it when that happens!
          I have found the same thing happens when running subs. Something seems to happen that a once perfect running sub will all of a sudden have an issue or something just does not work like it did a run before. I reckon we learn to roll with the punches.
          My motto has become: test, test, test and then test again

          Not expecting any issues, just doing a test for the test's sake and sure enough something new creeps up.

          It's not just what can break, will break. It's more: Things you never imagined to break, will break. Reminds me of a Dave Barry story where he talks about how anything maritime rusts away under his eyes the moment he checks it out at the store.

          Comment

          • Subculture
            Admiral
            • Feb 2009
            • 2119

            #6
            What printer do you have? I have a Creality Ender 2, although not much of the original machine left by the time I was through with replacing many poorly manufactured items, but easy to repair.

            BTW there was a closed cycle Seehund, can't recall if they evr made one, but it was at least on the drawing board. it's longer than the standard models, so that would be a good one to look at if you need to stretch the hull a bit.

            Oto's files are pretty good, but they look like a scaled copy of the bronco 1.35 Seehund, unfortunately with the mistakes too.

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            • tifosi12
              Commander
              • Jul 2020
              • 346

              #7
              Originally posted by Subculture
              What printer do you have? I have a Creality Ender 2, although not much of the original machine left by the time I was through with replacing many poorly manufactured items, but easy to repair.

              BTW there was a closed cycle Seehund, can't recall if they evr made one, but it was at least on the drawing board. it's longer than the standard models, so that would be a good one to look at if you need to stretch the hull a bit.

              Oto's files are pretty good, but they look like a scaled copy of the bronco 1.35 Seehund, unfortunately with the mistakes too.
              I had an Ender 3 Pro, which I cannibalized with parts from my previous Ender 3 (the 3 Pro didn't run right out of the box, thanks for that...). It was good until recently when more and more issues kept coming up. So now I ordered the Creality CR6-SE. That's basically an Ender 3 Pro on steroids, has the glass bed, dual z-axis, modular printing nozzle, auto calib and no feed detection. All the stuff I was missing on the Ender 3 Pro. I saw that it has apparently issues with its firmware, so I'm crossing my fingers it arrives and prints right out of the box. We'll see.

              As for the stretch limousine part: That's why I want to build a model (1/24th) first to see whether I really have to stretch it. There is a good chance the SD fits in the model as is. I just don't know off hand (hard to estimate without plans (coming in snail mail) and with the end parts where the diameter decreases). Of course it would be preferred if I don't have to stretch the center section. Then again, there were several versions of the Seehund IRL so one fake one wouldn't mess up history. :)

              Comment

              • tifosi12
                Commander
                • Jul 2020
                • 346

                #8
                Oh and thanks Bob for your unbox video of Oto's 1/12 Seehund. I got some good pointers from that, possibly the most important one to add holes to make sure it nicely fills with water.

                Comment

                • Subculture
                  Admiral
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 2119

                  #9
                  Wow, you're really getting through some machines!

                  Creality cheap out a bit on the electronics I think. I was unlucky and my mainboard expired in the first few weeks of ownership, I replaced it with a MKS GEN L and some TMC2208 stepper drivers. I had to learn how to configure the Marlin firmware, but it was worth it as the new board gives a lot more flexibility and and it's been rock solid ever since. I also exchanged the PSU for a secondhand XBOX 360 PSU, replaced all the cooling fans which quickly got loud- oiling the bearings did little to help.

                  I added a part cooling fan, a 3d touch sensor and printed a a few mechanical upgrades. So just the frame, steppers, bed, hot end and wiring left from the original.

                  I guess some may be thinking why bother, but I learnt very thoroughly how my printer works and can repair any area as required

                  Comment

                  • tifosi12
                    Commander
                    • Jul 2020
                    • 346

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Subculture
                    Wow, you're really getting through some machines!

                    Creality cheap out a bit on the electronics I think. I was unlucky and my mainboard expired in the first few weeks of ownership, I replaced it with a MKS GEN L and some TMC2208 stepper drivers. I had to learn how to configure the Marlin firmware, but it was worth it as the new board gives a lot more flexibility and and it's been rock solid ever since. I also exchanged the PSU for a secondhand XBOX 360 PSU, replaced all the cooling fans which quickly got loud- oiling the bearings did little to help.

                    I added a part cooling fan, a 3d touch sensor and printed a a few mechanical upgrades. So just the frame, steppers, bed, hot end and wiring left from the original.

                    I guess some may be thinking why bother, but I learnt very thoroughly how my printer works and can repair any area as required

                    You're more mechanically adept than me (Captain Obvious here). I don't tinker much with my 3D printers. Not that I wouldn't want to but if you look up Youtube videos for Ender 3 you get a million and half of them are crap. Nonetheless I did learn a bunch about my printer, but likely not as much as you. Which is also why I stayed with the Creality brand: There is some familiarity and some things I feel comfortable enough now to replace/upgrade. The whole 3D printer arena reminds me of where home computers were in the early eighties. I started out with a Sinclair (only Brits would know this reference) and then it was C-64. Much of what we take for granted today was paperclips and staplers back then (remember how to get a 5.25" diskette out of a floppy player or how to write-protect 5.25" floppies?). I bet in like 5 or 10 years people will look back at these early days of 3d printing and just wonder why people bothered with it.

                    Comment

                    • Subculture
                      Admiral
                      • Feb 2009
                      • 2119

                      #11
                      Very little mechanical work in any of that. it's mainly swapping out boards and tweaking the firmware. Most of mechanical bits were printed by the printer itself. This is how it's looked until the last couple of days-

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                      However I've started experimenting with printing hotter filaments like ABS Petg and ASA, so made some adjustments to the cooling fans and fitted an all metal hot end. This design keeps drafts away from the hot end, and substituting the axial fan for a centrifugal version gives much better flow through the hot end heatsink. It also gives unrestricted access to the bowden tube at the hotend. Still have to make a bracket for the 3d touch sensor and tidy up the wiring.

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                      • tifosi12
                        Commander
                        • Jul 2020
                        • 346

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Subculture
                        Very little mechanical work in any of that. it's mainly swapping out boards and tweaking the firmware. Most of mechanical bits were printed by the printer itself. This is how it's looked until the last couple of days-



                        However I've started experimenting with printing hotter filaments like ABS Petg and ASA, so made some adjustments to the cooling fans and fitted an all metal hot end. This design keeps drafts away from the hot end, and substituting the axial fan for a centrifugal version gives much better flow through the hot end heatsink. It also gives unrestricted access to the bowden tube at the hotend. Still have to make a bracket for the 3d touch sensor and tidy up the wiring.

                        WOW. Very impressive.

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                        • tifosi12
                          Commander
                          • Jul 2020
                          • 346

                          #13
                          Yeah, I'm back in business: The new Creality CR-6 SE is printing parts for the 1/24th model of the Seehund. So far a very nice machine with lots of upgrades compared to the Ender 3 Pro I had before.

                          Comment

                          • tifosi12
                            Commander
                            • Jul 2020
                            • 346

                            #14
                            Based on the model I'm building I can already say that I wont have to stretch the original files. There is enough space in the body to put the SD in. Only caveat will be the relative height of the SD so it can stretch all the way through the hull. The model will help me in determining that amongst other things.

                            Comment

                            • tifosi12
                              Commander
                              • Jul 2020
                              • 346

                              #15
                              Here is a picture of my 1/24th model of the Seehund: The small tube below is the 2.5" SD. Above is the central and frontal section of the sub. So there is plenty of space for the SD.

                              Now I can edit the STL files to the point that they craddle the SD and also allow for an easy opening from above. I love doing this in this small scale, which brings down 3d print times (and materials) four times.
                              Attached Files

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