Type XXXI U-2540 1:72 Scale Sub Build

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK. Here are some thought-starters as to how to build-up your own railings and steps. Look at the pretty pictures and come back to me for things you need clarified.












David

[rwtdiver]

Capillary action is our friend.

Providing the brass railing and steps register with the holes in the sail, I would go with these acid-etched parts.

Yes, they are flat, and the objective is round cross-section rails and steps. Providing you don't abrade away the existing photo-resist resin that covers each side of an etching, leave the parts as is (that resin coating is a good substrate for the primer to grab onto) and glue them into place.

To magically turn these flat pieces into round pieces simply mix up some heavy-fill primer and brush it onto these parts thickly. Don't spray, we want to preserve all that nice detail on the sail. As the primer 'levels' it will avoid the edges of the flat railing and steps, but will pool up on the flats. Two coats and you have items that are now kinda round of section.

Presto-chango! Flat to semi-round. Good enough for Government work.

David

David! Thank you for getting back to me!



As I looked closer at the sail and the layout, I see an issue!!

As you can see by the above photo, none of the holes are pre-drilled on the sail! I would have to try and line them up, mark them and then drill them myself! That is one of the real disadvantages to 3D printed submarines!

I think based on that it would be easier, and look better if I just took the time to make the railing and steps up myself! Would you not agree?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

This I believe will be best answered by David M. (The Master)



David! The above photo shows the brass hand rails and the brass steps!



This next photo shows the brass steps and the hand rails!

My question to you sir is? Would you use these hand rails and the steps that came with the kit? Or purchase some very small brass rod and fabricate your own?

It seems to me the sheet brass is really very thin and to fragile to use!?

Your input would be greatly appreciated David!! Thank you in advance!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

Capillary action is our friend.

Providing the brass railing and steps register with the holes in the sail, I would go with these acid-etched parts.

Yes, they are flat, and the objective is round cross-section rails and steps. Providing you don't abrade away the existing photo-resist resin that covers each side of an etching, leave the parts as is (that resin coating is a good substrate for the primer to grab onto) and glue them into place.

To magically turn these flat pieces into round pieces simply mix up some heavy-fill primer and brush it onto these parts thickly. Don't spray, we want to preserve all that nice detail on the sail. As the primer 'levels' it will avoid the edges of the flat railing and steps, but will pool up on the flats. Two coats and you have items that are now kinda round of section.

Presto-chango! Flat to semi-round. Good enough for Government work.

David

[rwtdiver]

This I believe will be best answered by David M. (The Master)



David! The above photo shows the brass hand rails and the brass steps!



This next photo shows the brass steps and the hand rails!

My question to you sir is? Would you use these hand rails and the steps that came with the kit? Or purchase some very small brass rod and fabricate your own?

It seems to me the sheet brass is really very thin and to fragile to use!?

Your input would be greatly appreciated David!! Thank you in advance!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Now that I have the U-2540 built I can start on the brass work!





There are individual plan details as to where each piece of brass is to be placed on this model! The detailed sheet has every piece of brass numbered and each number corresponds to the two plains (Sail & Hull)

In my opinion! As a 3D printed boat, (quality print files) and how well it is laid out, it will build into a really nice static boat if one where to put in the time and effort! I am really looking forward to this model build!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Check Sat!

[rwtdiver]

Sail's on backwards. Duh!

Just checking to see who is awake! I knew you would be on it!



Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sail's on backwards. Duh!

[rwtdiver]

Some progress being made on my Type XXXl U-2540!





The hull is now put together! This boat will not be put to the water! I am going to build the U-2540 as a static display only! I have a lot of brass etching work to do on this mode, and it will be a real learning process for me for sure!

Rob

[rwtdiver]

David,

As usual, I am at a total loss for words as to your expertise, deployment of patience, and methodical work to achieve perfection in everything you do!!!

Thank you very much again for taking the time to share your fantastic work in description, as well as the wonderful photo guides to show how it's done! I will struggle with frustration, patience, and total wanting to walk away from this project just trying to achieve any portion of the kind work that you do!

Thank you again David! You are an inspiration for sure!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks David,

I see you have the brass installed before the acid wash?! Is that the best way to do it? I thought I would just dip the entire sheet into a bath of the acid, and then clean it and cut the pieces out and install!?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

Using the Ferric Chloride acid to 'pickle' the brass surface is done to enhance the adhesion of primer later.

You're going to re-apply the acid (it's job to make the surface pitted to afford better mechanical tooth to the eventual primer coat) after you inlay the brass onto the models surface anyway, as you'll be abrading away excess glue and Bondo after fairing in the brass to the models surface, necessitating re-pickling with acid anyway.

Scrub off the photo-resist from the brass -- lacquer thinner and a green abrasive pad -- while it's still in sheet form; inlay the brass pieces onto the model; fair in with glue and Bondo; Abrade away excess glue and Bondo till the inlay work is flush with the models surface; pickle the brass; prim; paint; sing my praises!




David

[rwtdiver]

Ferric Chloride.

Thanks David,

I see you have the brass installed before the acid wash?! Is that the best way to do it? I thought I would just dip the entire sheet into a bath of the acid, and then clean it and cut the pieces out and install!?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ferric Chloride.

[rwtdiver]

I know this subject matter has been covered before! But I am going to be doing a lot brass work on the Type XXl. And I realize the brass will need some prep work before it gets applied to the model and the finishing work after!



I know that it should be cleaned with laquer thinner, and then a bath in some sort of acid! I am thinking vinegar would do the job!? I have heard that some like to use a more aggressive acid! Any input would be appreciated! Thank you!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

I should have known! (I had to look it up). John Holland. Sneaky, Andy... very sneaky.

And, you're right!

David

You guys have even got my wife (Masters Degree in Library Science) researching John Holland! She loves history! This guy has lots of submarine history!



Very interesting gentleman for sure!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"