Type XXXI U-2540 1:72 Scale Sub Build

[cgbillb]

Would you think about selling her?
Bill
Athens, Ga.

[rwtdiver]

Bummer. Sorry to hear that Rob. It was progressing so nicely. PLA does well much of the time. It's that one time you let your guard down that it bites you unfortunately. ABS and ASA have their issues but I have been quite successful printing with them to the extent that I will not use anything else. A black ABS hull on a sunny day can still warp but it just doesn't behave the same way that PLA does.

Hi Steve,

Yes, another lesson learned for sure. It was interesting to see how the PE just pushed up from the movement of the hull. I looked down the hull and I could see that it did have a bow in it at about the center line. I really had no idea that the heat coming in through my window could do that. It was about 113 deg that afternoon and it lasted about 3 hours.

If I run my boats at all during the late spring and summer time, it's for only about 10 min at a time and then back into the house!

I may reprint the boat again and try to remove the PE from the old hull without damaging it, and try to re-install it on the new hull!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

NOTE: I have decided not to rebuild the Type XXI U-2540 at this time! Thanks to everyone for the help and input on this build! Moving on!

[SubDude]

Bummer. Sorry to hear that Rob. It was progressing so nicely. PLA does well much of the time. It's that one time you let your guard down that it bites you unfortunately. ABS and ASA have their issues but I have been quite successful printing with them to the extent that I will not use anything else. A black ABS hull on a sunny day can still warp but it just doesn't behave the same way that PLA does.

[rwtdiver]

Issues with the PLA 3D Printed Type XXI!



I f anyone is going to build the 3D printed version of the Type XXI and your plan was to also install the PE that you can purchase for this boat, my advice, do not do it with a PLA filament! We all understand what heat can do to PLA.

I did have some pieces of the PE installed using thin CA. I also have a window that lets in the hot afternoon sun in front of my work desk. I had finished up some work on the PE installation and walked away from the work leaving the boat next to the window. When I got up this AM I found that the PE was lifting off the boat (top deck) I found the boat had some very slight warp in the hull and the PE was lifting. I found that the PE was not moving with the hull structure!

It's my advice if you are going to build this boat and install the PE, that you use ABS or another filament that can withstand heat warpage, better than PLA.

Another lesson learned!:-((

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat" PLA CAN'T!!

[rwtdiver]

I managed to get the brass work finished on the top deck of the U-2540!





I am really at odds with myself as to finish over the PE, or leave it in it's brass look? It seems to me that the brass work really needs to be painted over and part of the final finish. If you applied your final finish and then tried to apply the brass work you would surely screw up the final paint finish!

So I think I just answered my own question, and that is to apply the final finish over the brass PE!!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

I always hated painting over PE too. But people in the know will see the hard work anyway. Good looking boat.

Thanks Casey!

I might just reconsider painting this boat!? Being it is a 3D printed boat which as you are aware does have some characteristics as to how it was formed and that might be interesting for people to see what actually goes into this type boat.

Also I could always take the time to mask off the PE and then paint the boat. All kinds of possibilities!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[Das Boot]

I always hated painting over PE too. But people in the know will see the hard work anyway. Good looking boat.

[rwtdiver]

Today I started the brass work on the Type XXI!



To get more more in tune with doing this work I made the decision to start with the top deck because the pieces are larger and easier to work with! There is a lot of pre brass install work to make sure the groove that the brass fits into is clean and will allow a nice inlay type fit. The 3D printing process on these recessed areas needed some clean up. As Dave stated, this is a time-consuming process and takes patience to master to do it correctly!

This will be a real learning process for me, and I will be going over David's photos with a fine-tooth comb to pick up on his ways of doing this.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

It’s the same kit you’ve gotten from Bob and the filed you printed, I believe. Oto has posted a number of pictures of his printed version, including a resin conning tower print. My understanding is that the resin print is a better finish, but much more brittle. Not a concern for me and additionally, Oto describes this scale as not really suitable for R/C. (I know that wouldn’t stop lots of people from making a 1/72 scale one functional.)
The XXI and the XXIII have been two of my favorite U Boats for years; I’ve got the vom Original zum Modell books for both of them.

The files that I purchased from bob were great! I did not glue any of the hull sections together. The files came with the small screws and nuts to put the hull sections together. The files I purchased also came with complete set of photo etching, and a full set of plans! Should be a real learning process and a fun build!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[goshawk823]

Sam,

That would really make an awesome threesome, and what a history behind each boat. Everything I have read about the Type XXl had the Germans introduced it earlier in the war, it could have sure changed the possible outcome!

Do you have any photos of the kit from Oto? It would be interesting to see! When you get your kit I hope you do a build blog on your build!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

It’s the same kit you’ve gotten from Bob and the filed you printed, I believe. Oto has posted a number of pictures of his printed version, including a resin conning tower print. My understanding is that the resin print is a better finish, but much more brittle. Not a concern for me and additionally, Oto describes this scale as not really suitable for R/C. (I know that wouldn’t stop lots of people from making a 1/72 scale one functional.)
The XXI and the XXIII have been two of my favorite U Boats for years; I’ve got the vom Original zum Modell books for both of them.

[rwtdiver]

At some point, I’m going to get this kit from Oto with the explicit goal of making it a static model. I think it would look great next to the Revell Type VII and Type IX in the same scale.

Sam,

That would really make an awesome threesome, and what a history behind each boat. Everything I have read about the Type XXl had the Germans introduced it earlier in the war, it could have sure changed the possible outcome!

Do you have any photos of the kit from Oto? It would be interesting to see! When you get your kit I hope you do a build blog on your build!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[goshawk823]

I am going to reopen my German Type XX1 U-2540 build blog. As I have stated in this blog, I am not going to build an actual functioning submarine, I have decided to make it into a static model only.



David has given me many great tips and instructional photos as how to do the brass work on this model, so with that in mind I will proceed his information and move this project forward!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

At some point, I’m going to get this kit from Oto with the explicit goal of making it a static model. I think it would look great next to the Revell Type VII and Type IX in the same scale.

[rwtdiver]

I am going to reopen my German Type XX1 U-2540 build blog. As I have stated in this blog, I am not going to build an actual functioning submarine, I have decided to make it into a static model only.



David has given me many great tips and instructional photos as how to do the brass work on this model, so with that in mind I will proceed with his information and move this project forward!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Started cutting and layout of some of the top deck brass pieces (Not glued in at all yet)



Fitting and adhering the 100's of pieces of brass is going to take a great deal of time and patience. I am just not sure if I am skilled enough to be taking on this project! I have gone over David M's photos and instructions! If nothing else, it certainly makes me understand just how GOOD David M. is!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Amazon.com: Elmer's Products, Inc E7000 Carpenters Wood Glue, 4 Fl oz , Yellow : Industrial & Scientific

Thank David,

I will give it a try!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"