My 1:77 Scale Disney Nautilus Build

[RCSubGuy]

Thanks for the clarification, Rob. Had us worried for a bit there. On the topic of the cylinder, though... For heaven's sake, let's get that boat diving! You have our full support to work through the challenges of the tilting prop linkage, and the cylinder is basically set up and ready to rock as she came. It's a half-step, a hop and a jump to go from surface target to fully operational agent of destruction of the "hated nation". We're standing by to help make that happen for you.


Bob

[rwtdiver]

Rob,


What you're saying is pretty alarming. Every single one of these subdrivers are fully tested prior to being shipped out. If there is an issue, I'm sure we can get it to talk to through. No need to got a perfectly good cylinder if it will get the job done.

You need to let me know when something like this happens so we can hook you up...


Bob

Bob! Thank you for responding! Please! I am in NO WAY blaming Nautilus Drydocks for these issues! I could have caused the wires to break off when I took the electronics out of the cylinder! As for the ESC, I may have crossed some wires in the process! It has been almost a year that everything has been boxed up before I started on it! I do not want any type of warranty recourse on this SD Bob!

This Nautilus is a tough build at best! And these type of things can happen during the build! And at this point I think these issues may have been caused by me! Please everyone reading this right now, understand I am NOT blaming Nautilus Drydocks! Yes I am frustrated right now, but I will put this boat to water and be very happy with it! The lights look great, the running gear and rudder work great since I put in a new ESC (Viper 10) and wired it up! So put this to rest that Nautilus Drydocks shipped me a defective SD! They are a VERY reputable company!!

I am very happy with how this boat turned out! It may not be up to it's full potential, but it will look great running around in my pool! Sorry I put my frustration out on the blog, and for giving the impression that Nautilus Drydocks was at fault! Moving on! Thanks to all that have helped me on this blog and forum for the past year plus!

Thank you!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[RCSubGuy]

Rob,


What you're saying is pretty alarming. Every single one of these subdrivers are fully tested prior to being shipped out. If there is an issue, I'm sure we can get it to talk to through. No need to got a perfectly good cylinder if it will get the job done.

You need to let me know when something like this happens so we can hook you up...


Bob

[rwtdiver]

Some of the electronics in the SD (ESC, and the pump) where defective! Long story short! The Nautilus will be a surface runner only! Ounce I get the new design worked out, I will post the results! As of now the 1:77 scale Disney Nautilus is done!





Thanks for following! Moving on!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

I finished up all the lighting and related wiring, and everything went well! Spent some time this evening getting things ready for the SD wiring for tomorrow!







I am following Bob Martins video #4 which shows how this SD is wired up on the Nautilus that he built! So far things have been falling into place pretty close to his build videos! I honestly do not see how anyone could build this 1:77 scale Disney Nautilus without using his 1 through 5 build videos! Great job Bob!! Thank you!!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

At this point the final finish is complete! Yesterday I applied 3 light coats of clear coat, and it has now cured for 24 hours!





Next step will be to finish up the lighting around the salon area! I am still waiting on the new lens kit that I ordered from Nautilus Drydocks, but when they arrive that will complete the exterior of the boat! The only item I have left to complete is the wiring connections and the SD itself! After that we will be "Water Bound" This will be my very first fully operational (DIVING) submarine that I built!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Very, very nice work, Rob.

David

Thank you David! I have learned a lot from looking at your work and knowledge as how to apply and use different paints. I am really tied to using water base products because of my inhouse shop & healthy environment requirements! Non the less getting that really nice compliment from you, means a lot to me! Thank you!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Very, very nice work, Rob.

David

[rwtdiver]

In this photo is the acrylic water base colors that I used to achieve the final look that I was after! The colors where applied and then I would spray water and brush the colors out by diluting with water!



Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

The finish process is now complete! Photo below first wash!!



The photos below is the finish product, except for clear coat!!



To achieve the look I was after, I used 4 different water base acrylic colors to get the effect! The next part of the finish will be a matte clear coat! Now we move onto the electronic component wiring in the SD, and finish up the lighting system!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Thank you David! I do appreciate all your input and great ideas!

Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I started the exterior finish work on my Nautilus today! At this point I have just about achieved the orange rust color!





I am using all Acrylic matte finishes, and applying with a brush. Tomorrow I will apply a wash of a combination dark brown with some added black to tone it down a little. After that some going over the seams and other areas where rust would collect using a smaller detail brush! After the paints cure out I will coat with dead flat clear coats to finish it off! Then it's off to the SD and the electronics!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

Look over the miniatures in the film. How much running rust do you see (discounting the full scale above-waterline set piece)? And rust patches?

Less is more when it comes to weathering -- always emulate the look of the prototype. Research is everything.

Consider 'real' rust, applied as a wash. Such as...



And those pesky clear-parts:



David

[rwtdiver]

Looks great Rob. Nice work. You’re making really good progress on this build.

Have you seen these?

https://www.archertransfers.com

They have a large selection of different size rivet resin transfers. I will be picking some of these up to use on the type VIIC build to repair the river details in areas where I need to fill and sand the hull.

Thank you! And thanks for sharing the web site!

I also have used a little trick that I used when I was building model airplanes way back when! Thin CA through a very fine tip would allow you make very minute drops that would form up to make panel line rivets along the fuse and wings! Thanks again for the link up on archertransfers, looks like they have real nice stuff!

Rob
"Firemen cab stand the heat"

[Monahan Steam Models]

Looks great Rob. Nice work. You’re making really good progress on this build.

Have you seen these?

https://www.archertransfers.com

They have a large selection of different size rivet resin transfers. I will be picking some of these up to use on the type VIIC build to repair the river details in areas where I need to fill and sand the hull.

[rwtdiver]

Pretty sure that issue is an artifact of the casting process and not in the design of the masters. The tails warped away from each other, spreading that gap. If you look at that section carefully from the side, I bet you’ll see the horizontal lines of the rudder opening are not parallel, but rather angled away from each other. You can fix it by heating both and bringing back to the proper position. Would have saved messing around with the rudder extension, though that is equally viable as a solution.

Bob

No problem! Just part of this wonderful hobby! Patience and perseverance!!



The piece I added to the top took care of the of the gap! Appreciate the input from Bob & David!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"