Surface runner submarine setup

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

WOW!

David, thank you for such kind words! I am sort of at a loss as to how to put all this into words. It means the world to this "Old-wrinkle-bag" to be accepted as a beginner to this wonderful world of RC Submarine builders! I feel very HONORED to be a part of this very challenging and rewarding hobby. My thanks to all of you for making it so special to this old fart! Life is short, and as we age these types of special times are to be cherished. Thank you so much.....

David! I accept your most kind offer! I do no think Bob will mind at all... Thank you so much..

Thanks to all you guys that have responded to this blog! There will be more to come and to learn!

Rob

No problem, sir. Send me your address.

David

[rwtdiver]

WOW!

David, thank you for such kind words! I am sort of at a loss as to how to put all this into words. It means the world to this "Old-wrinkle-bag" to be accepted as a beginner to this wonderful world of RC Submarine builders! I feel very HONORED to be a part of this very challenging and rewarding hobby. My thanks to all of you for making it so special to this old fart! Life is short, and as we age these types of special times are to be cherished. Thank you so much.....

David! I accept your most kind offer! I do no think Bob will mind at all... Thank you so much..

Thanks to all you guys that have responded to this blog! There will be more to come and to learn!

Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Well! My 3D Printed WTC has met it's demise! So at this point I am ending the project with the Astute and the Redoutable using 3D Printed parts (mainly the end caps) Using the Dumas stuffing boxes was NOT the best way to go, but the end caps themselves where the main problem. The fitting tolerances was very critical, and I was unable to make the mating fit required between the caps and the cylinder even with the rubber seals.

Also I printed these caps using PLA at 100% infill. I knew I would have a problem with water seeping through the PLA, so I was hoping I could seal the caps with a seal coating (2 coats) Well! It did not work!

Like I said, I have a lot to learn! At this point I am going to back off of this project. I am going to take David's advice and put a proper 3" WTC in these boats, and build them to do what they are supposed to do! "DIVE" At this point I will be saving up the funds to purchase a 3" WTC (most likely built by David) from Nautilus Drydocks...

Do not give up on me, I have a few other projects up my sleeve that you may or may not agree with, but they will help me to understand what makes these boats function as they are supposed and help build my knowledge base as I proceed UP this submarine building ladder. Stay tuned...

Thank you,
Rob

Don't give up on you??? … don't give up on you!!

No way anyone here is giving up on you.

You have no idea what a rare bird you are, pal. You innovate, you evaluate, and (most rare of all) you share with us the dump-ass moves you make and define what when wrong. You teach us. You are one of the rare ones who moves the ball forward in this game. And you're an old fart -- we wrinkle-bags gotta stick together.

I've got some 2.5" SD's of the old design sitting here collecting dust. I don't think Bob will mind if I send you one. Send me your mailing address. dmeriman@aol.com

David

[rwtdiver]

Sorry!! Screwed up the photos again!!!

Rob

OK! I just figured out how to make sure my photos come out right!! Right hand side "Up load attachments box" I am learning!

[rwtdiver]

Well! My 3D Printed WTC has met it's demise! So at this point I am ending the project with the Astute and the Redoutable using 3D Printed parts (mainly the end caps) Using the Dumas stuffing boxes was NOT the best way to go, but the end caps themselves where the main problem. The fitting tolerances was very critical, and I was unable to make the mating fit required between the caps and the cylinder even with the rubber seals.

Also I printed these caps using PLA at 100% infill. I knew I would have a problem with water seeping through the PLA, so I was hoping I could seal the caps with a seal coating (2 coats) Well! It did not work!

Like I said, I have a lot to learn! At this point I am going to back off of this project. I am going to take David's advice and put a proper 3" WTC in these boats, and build them to do what they are supposed to do! "DIVE" At this point I will be saving up the funds to purchase a 3" WTC (most likely built by David) from Nautilus Drydocks...

Do not give up on me, I have a few other projects up my sleeve that you may or may not agree with, but they will help me to understand what makes these boats function as they are supposed and help build my knowledge base as I proceed UP this submarine building ladder. Stay tuned...

Thank you,
Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Do the SKIPJACK next! It's a snap to assemble, trim out, and operate. It'll be the most fun you ever had with your clothes on!

David

[rwtdiver]

Thanks David!

Thank you for all your encouragement and advice! I feel honored to have you, Tom, Bob, and Bob Martin in my world! (If that sounds a little over bearing) it was meant to! I really honestly appreciate all your advice, constructive criticism, and help! You guys are the Scale Masters of Submarines! I have seen your works! I can only hope (in what's left of my life) to achieve 1/2 half the your knowledge and abilities!

My basic plan is to finish up the two boats in progress and start on the Krick Type VII B, and then build the Moebius USS Skipjack and install the 3.5" WTC that I already have..







Really looking forward to MY ultimate Submarine build, and that will be the Skipjack at this point! (With a maybe a few more in between):-)) I really love this hobby!!!

Thanks again for all the input and help!

Rob T.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You were poorly served -- the Dumas kit was a stupid design. For the same amount of money, Dumas could have produced a more rational WTC; something that would have side-stepped all the problems their kit presents the unwary customer. A total pile of ****.

And there have been other r/c submarine kits produced for the 'beginner' that suffered from poor engineering of the watertight spaces. Skip Asay's sink-o-matic (my term) WTC, provided with his ALBACORE and MARLIN kits, stands as a stunning example of how going cheap with the WTC structure (two equatorially split vacuformed cylinder halves) doomed otherwise well engineered r/c model submarine kits into marginal performers.

Your most assuredly on the right track with your work as presented to date. But, trash that stuffing tube and get your mind and hands used to proper watertight sealing methods -- you'll need that knowledge down the road. Welcome to the world of wet!

David

[rwtdiver]

WOW! Not sure what I did above!!?? Sorry! Still learning how to use this blog as well! I will check back in!

Rob T.

[trout]

A stuffing box or tube is great on a boat, but not so much for a diving sub. So, since this is a surface runner or boat, i do not know if it makes a difference. On a sub we use seals that are lubed with silicon or similar product. Water pressure will make the seal better. where a stuffing box would slowly have the grease pushed into the cylinder.

[rwtdiver]

Hi Bob & Tom,
Thank you very much for the compliments! I do hear what you are saying, and it really does make sense to set these subs up for possible static diving in the future. Thank you both and David for the really good information and advice. I really have a long ways to go, and lots to learn before I could ever build my own WTC for static diving. Another thought I had was to scale up the size of the Astute to accept a 3.5" WTC, which I purchase from Bob Martin that is going to be used on my Skipjack build. Bob felt it would work, but the ballast system was questionable and the Astute might run somewhat low in the water when on the surface. (would not look scale) Looks to me like I better start saving up for a 3" WTC!:-))

The Skipjack and the 3.5" WTC are a long ways down the road. I did exactly what Bob Martin said not to do! As he has always said! "START AT THE BOTTOOM" I do have one thing going for me! I love to build Submarines and I really love this hobby!!:-))

I do have a question: I used Dumas 1/8" shaft and stuffing tubes on my these two subs. The stuffing tubes are designed so that you can lubricate the interior of the tubes. I have two types of possible lubricants that I could use for this purpose!



I do use the Magic Lube II for my gaskets on the cylinder end caps. In your opinion would any of these two be a good lubricate to use? or better yet, what would you suggest?
Thank you guys, I do appreciate all your help and expertise.


Sorry for all my rattling! I need to get back to building!!

Thank you,
Rob T.

[trout]

I agree with Bob and David. Put all the hardware needed in so that your control surfaces work. You are that close to having a working submarine or to use a Get Smart quote "Missed it by that much". I read your reasons not to and get your point, but you have already done some of the hardest parts in getting a sub to run underwater. Anyways, love what you are doing and it is looking great!

[RCSubGuy]

Rob, this is a quality thread. I love your attention to detail and thoughtful design. One thing you might want to consider during this early stage of your build is to actuate all of your control surfaces, even if you just lock the fairwater and aft planes in place for now. In that way, you can eventually replace the cylinder with a full diving unit once you get comfortable with things. As David mentioned, it's not a terribly large amount of work to get the boat diving once you get the core functions addressed.

[rwtdiver]

I am just getting started on the wiring, and the first thing that I wanted to do was to move the on/off switch from the ESC to the endcap on the outside of the cylinder. I fabricated a small container with a screw cap and a rubber seal. The container was secured to the endcap. I then bored a 1/4" hole through the container and the endcap so the wires from the on/off switch could protrude into the cylinder and be re-soldered to the ESC.




This switch enclosure will make turning the system on & off much easier because I won't have to pull the endcap every time I want to shut it down!
SPECIAL NOTE: It is a good practice to ALWAYS pull the endcap from the cylinder after each use to make sure if you did have a little water leakage that it could dry out, In fact I would make sure you left the endcap off when your boat is in storage. Also it is not wise to charge any battery inside a sealed cylinder. If you do not pull your battery, then make sure you at least pull the endcap before you charge up your battery!

Rob T.

[rwtdiver]

I just feel like I need to make a general statement as to my "sub surface runner" project! These two build are specifically designed to be used on the surface, and NOT for diving applications!! I am building both
these two boats to gain knowledge into the boat building, WTC construction, (I use the water tight loosely) and for setting up control surfaces and electronics.

I am new at submarines totally, but I do have a great deal of knowledge in RC aircraft building of all sorts, and the electronics involved as well as 3D printing, so I can say I have a little head start!

For those of you that are new to sub building make sure you check out Nautilus Drydocks, and LEARN from what Bob Martin has to say about the subject of sub building. Also pay clse attention to what all these guys on this forum have to say (Dave M.) and all the others. I hope to learn a ton more!

Rob T.

Special note: I have tested my water tight compartment to 6" underwater. It held OK! The end caps on my WTC where 3D printed from PLA. and you will need to seal them. I used a thin resin coat. Surface runner at deck awash will be fine. "I WOULD NOT PUT THIS WTC UNDER WATER AT ANY CONSIDERABLE DEPTH" or stand the risk at loosing all your electronics. My last word on the subject, Purchase a quality designed and build WTC from Bob Martin at Nautilus Drydocks. I purchased a 3" WTC from him for my Skipjack and it is a quality WTC.