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I just watched this video and found it extremely informative. All you need is digital camera and a PC (I don't have a pc) to produce a scan of almost anything. I thought some of you folks might like to try it. Most of the hand held scanners don't seem to be able to scan long thin objects like submarines, so this technique may be the answer.
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Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver! -
More on scanning. From Fuel3d I asked for their opinion on scanning submarine models.
Thank you for your email and interest in SCANIFY. Typically we recommend the scanner for objects that are over 10cm in size and smaller in total volume than a basketball, so I think that something 6 foot long may be a little too big. There may be another couple of challenges to consider. If the models are of reflective or smooth material on the outside, this will not scan well (please see the attached sheets for more information). The type of material will be very important as to the quality of the data you get for 3D printing.
I suspect that the images will need a lot of post processing to create the result.
Apologies if this seems negative, but I would rather be honest about what the scanner can do well.
Please let me know if you have any questions
Kind regards
Nicky fuel 3DStop messing about - just get a Sub-driver! -
This guy comes across as one being more interested in a happy potential customer than a quick sale of something that may not fit the needs of the potential customer. Classy. Not enough of that going around these days.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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My company is doing a lot of work in the realm of 3D scanning and printing. Scanify's comments are right in line with what we've figured. We've invested about $100k in commercial-grade scanning equipment, and it will probably work for this application, but unfortunately they're in Pella, IA and I'm in Naples, FL, so coming in on the weekend to "test" out the scanner on a sub is out of the question. Anything we'll find on the cheap won't work worth spit for scanning a big boat... yet.
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Just had an email regarding commercial scanning.
What is the ROI of 3D Scanning?
Mike,
Project Analysis: Mold 3D Scanning vs Manual MeasurementI am often asked how 3D scanning can save customers time & money. It's a great question that is important to answer. Let's look at a recent project in which a moldmaker wanted to re-qualify used molds:
PREVIOUS METHOD: Manual Hand Measurement
Time: 10 weeks to complete one part + production time
Cost: Approximately 200 hours at $50/hour = $10,000
Method: Gages and instruments are used to manually measure the mold's dimensions and locations.
NEW METHOD: High-Speed 3D Scanning
Mold color error mapTime: 2 hours to scan each part + time for generating inspection reports = 30 hours (3-4 days)
Cost: Scanning each mold, plus detailed iterative inspection and reporting process to final documentation = Less than half the cost of the Previous Method
Method: 3D scanning expedites parts’ production exponentially. A color-coded inspection report (or point cloud data for CAD modeling) is quickly generated that provides more information about the part’s acceptability.
The company also benefited in other ways from 3D Scanning – Find out how >>
Sincerely,
Jeff Sieber
Laser Design, Inc.
Email: jsieber@laserdesign.com
Phone: 952-252-3418
Web: www.laserdesign.com
Learn more about Laser Design: 3D Scanning | Inspection | Long-Range | Laser Tracking | Rentals | High-Precision Scanners | Contact Us
Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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And then there's 4D printing ----Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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I don't think this is particularly cheap, but at least it shows that larger items can be printed.
Last edited by Kazzer; 08-24-2016, 06:48 PM.Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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I've been tinkering with Autodesk 123D Design CAD drawing program for a few days, and I decided to experiment with a D&E 3.5 twin Motor Bulkhead. I made several thin disks to replicate the slices through the endcap then 'glued them all together and finally punched the holes in. There are some internal parts not in this drawing that I omitted, mainly because I didn't want to tear the original apart. David is sending me some blanks and I'll upgrade these features later. The main concern with 3D printing these caps is that the Lexan tube varies in internal diameter, so David has to machine each one individually I think I can do that in the CAD drawing and then print the caps off to the exact dimension required.
All I need now is a printer. Any suggestions?
Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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If you have enough of a channel to give the o-ring a good smoosh, I think that would cover any variations in inner diameter variances.
As far as 3D printer, I would suggest a TAZ 6 - http://www.matterhackers.com/store/p...z-4-3d-printer
Some of the features are self leveling bed and the all metal print head. It can handle most materials out there it seems, Nylon, PLA, Styrene, Polycarbonate, and many more.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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It’s a good Idea....but please keep in mind that when you scale your 3D design to the right diameter, you will scale every part of your 3d design, the holes to take the pushrods, the holes for the main shaft, the overall thickness of your design,.......you will have an offset of your entire design, smaller or larger.
Grtz,
Bart
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
"Samuel Smiles"Comment
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When I've discussed this with HWSNBN, he was almost adamant that he has to machine each end cap to suit the Lexan, due to a wide variety of ID in the manufacture process. It seems they are concerned with OD dimensions not ID.
When I 'assemble' the disks in 123D, I can alter the ones where the O Ring sits quite easily, but the problem could be that the rest of the disks would be too tight in the cylinder.. I guess this is a project that needs some trials. Maybe an assortment of O rings could cure the variations? I like the idea of a thin ring that is glued into the end of the tube, and this standardizes the dimension, the slack taken up by silicone adhesive. All the end caps would then fit the ring.
Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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I would think very carefully before committing to a purchase of a personal 3D printer. The industry is on the cusp of some pretty major developments, which should pan out in the next few months. Chiefly Hewlett Packard are releasing a brace of 3D printers which print at voxel level, and about ten times faster than current technology. They're also cheaper than competing machines. These machines print in nylon, but other materials are in the pipeline.
There is also another technology, resin based from a company called Carbon 3D, named CLIP. This technology is different again from HP's, but will also find a footing as it is very fast, and is excellent for ultra fine detail.
The quality of prints from machines like these is much greater than domestic level machines, so in my view, it's better to concentrate on the CAD, and leave the printing to the pros.Comment
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That's good advice, because I wasn't aware of the speed this technology is moving at. However, I'd like to get a grasp of things, and as I've found a CAD program I like and is simple enough for me to grasp, I need a printer. If it could turn a shilling so much better, but if its basic, at least it will give me a grasp of the technology.
123D Design is free, so a few bucks on a printer won't go amiss, and I can write it off. So, what do you think I should get for a printer? Think of small submarine stuff, like WTC end-caps, etc.
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I can't recommend any particular system. I would look secondhand, as there are a lot of bargains about- these machines depreciate quicker than used toilet roll. Also make sure you can get replacement parts. There's not much to wear on these gadgets but things can and do go wrong, and you don't want to be left high and dry with an expensive doorstop.
All the lower cost machines are based on fused deposition. That is you have a spool of plastic wire on a drum, fed in mechanically and melted in a nozzle, and the plastic is piped onto the work table bit like a very accurate glue gun or icing a cake. The plastic used is usually PLA or ABS. PLA isn't waterproof so ABS would be best for submerged items. The finished parts always have a ribbed appearance, so they will need some hand finishing with sandpaper(s) to get them smooth. The slower the print the better the resolution.
There are also newer filaments coming onto the market which enhanced properties like Graphene. These vastly improve strength of the finished item and also improve stability, dimensions and speed of the print. however they're pretty new and the price isn't cheap.
Personally for endcaps, you can't beat an old school lathe and pillar drill.Last edited by Subculture; 08-31-2016, 05:29 AM.Comment
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Seeing as the topic heading is '3D scanning on the cheap' I decided to buy a Chinese clone printer. At $200 it will fly under the radar of ' Her indoors' and I can dump it in the canal as a lightweight boat anchor, if needs be.
It should be here (from China) in about 2 weeks, so I'll keep you informed.
Meanwhile, back to Autoscan 123D Design to improve my CAD drawing skills
I am enjoying this! Pity I can't get HWSNBN to try it - he'd be damned good if he could get his head - er - um - I digress!
As for the lathe stuff subculture, good luck with that. It's a 'one off' procedure to set up each time. I want to do this once, save the work to a file, and get some idiotic machine to churn it out a million times. I can also share my 'skill'.
I have a micro lathe - now selling - cheap!
Last edited by Kazzer; 08-31-2016, 08:03 PM.Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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