New 1/144 Revell sub kit r/c conversion packages for 2010
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Looks like you're reached the maximum practical component density limit of this small SubDriver, unless components start shrinking. The servo module looks as if it would need to get expanded to pick up a fourth servo for, say, operable bow planes. My guess is that fine monster prop you've made will put plenty of water over the stern planes such that the Type-214 won't have any trouble maneuvering without bow planes. One less thing to buy/break, too...
Looking forward to hearing about sea trials. We've had some conversations about submarine races (always gets a wry chuckle) and we were wondering which 1:144 boat you've made is the fastest in a straight line and which is best maneuvering at speed. (My younger son is fond of putting brushless motors in mini RC trucks.)Comment
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The little subs will torque roll-over before you get to maximum throttle -- only so much weight-foam you can cram in there to plumb the boat upright against torque and foil-roll forces.
My money is on the little SKIPJACK (though it's a cheat, different scale). It's a bullet.
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
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Well, well, well. There's been a lot of activity in the cave, which explains all the quiet here on the forum. The (now disappeared) photos show the 214 has a proportionately huge sail (think Triton/Sailfish w/out the radars) and that a 214 puts a lot of torpedoes in a ready to fire position.
Sure doesn't look like there would be any room in the sub-driver for a fourth servo for the bow planes (unless you forego the mission switch). The resin blocks for the control rod magnets look like a much better solution than CA and baking soda. My two Revell Skipjack fittings kits don't have those resin coupling pieces for the magnets, but would probably benefit from them. Two of the 214's control rods have bends in them near the magnets. Any reason other than setting the length?
The clear plastic pieces (at least three of them) represent navigation light covers. Any thoughts as to the feasibility of LED lighting, which I would assume would be exterior to the SubDriver. Lights are kind of a gimmick, but can still be useful for orientation if bright enough to be seen.Comment
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I accidentally put an in-work shot of the torpedo launcher sub-system. Could not figure out how to just dump that one shot. So took the whole thing down. I'll re-post with better text later today.
I'll amplify on the clear parts there. Please, stand-by!
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
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Does that guillotine valve rely solely on a close fit between the plastic surfaces, Dave? Or is there something else going on there. I've looked at it, but can't make out how it remains airtight.Comment
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The wire between the magnet and rubber element is so bent as to bear against the top of the black guide tube (piece of split heat-shrink tube), pushing down on the magnet and the rubber element. Dirt simple.
As a soft ballast tank, one that is open at the bottom, this tank does not see much differential pressure, so the light force holding the rubber element down onto the machined flat of the cylinder is more than adequate to make the valve water/air tight.
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
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I thought the witch said that sleep is over-rated, especially for you. T-O-R-P-E-D-O-E-S and production, it is. A wise Sailor recognizes the right answer when presented with it. A wise old Sailor (almost) always gets that right.
The 214 will get done when it gets done. It's a good story to follow as it moves along. Thanks for the continuation of photos. These will help produce a very complete set of instructions. Also a good reminder of the importance of pre-shading in the appropriate areas. Tech questions...
Any need for drainage amidships underneath the ballast tank? (Obviously you don't want to swiss cheese the keel, but it it helpful for diving performance to "shorten the straw" so to speak?)
Looks like all of the 'scopes are stored, which makes sense due to the fragility of 'scopes at this scale. Is there any need to provide venting in the sail?Comment
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