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Hull separation on the NDD 1/72 LA and Virginia class kits

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  • Hull separation on the NDD 1/72 LA and Virginia class kits

    Hi Bob
    wondering how the hull openings to access the WTC are achieved in these mixed PVC / media kits?
    Do you have any photos of how modellers achieve this with the LA and Virginia class kits that you sell?

    Also, are there any reported problems with the printed parts warping in sunlight / heat.

    Thanks

    John
    John Slater

    Sydney Australia

    You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
    Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



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  • #2
    Originally posted by Slats View Post
    Hi Bob
    wondering how the hull openings to access the WTC are achieved in these mixed PVC / media kits?
    Do you have any photos of how modellers achieve this with the LA and Virginia class kits that you sell?

    Also, are there any reported problems with the printed parts warping in sunlight / heat.

    Thanks

    John
    Hi John,

    If you would allow me to respond to you about the 3D printed parts! I use PLA filament on all my sub kits (6 total) Heat is the killer! I live in Arizona, and it gets hot here for sure. When we have over 85 to 90 temps. I only run about 10 min. in our pool, away from sun light as much as possible. Most of my boats are flat black in color and black absorbs the heat! I ran a test with a two piece hull (upper & lower section) I left it out in the shade on a 100 deg. day for approximately 45 min. And sure enough I hand some what I would call collapse of the top section I can't tell you what other kinds of filaments would do! I hope this helps!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

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    • #3
      PLA is cheaper and easy to print with. It easily warps in direct sunlight on a warm day. I only use it for prototypes and testing. It is non-toxic.

      ASA costs more, but because it a higher temperature thermoplastic and more resistant to UV rays, is a much better solution for RC submarines. It requires an enclosed printer to keep the surrounding air warm enough to print properly. ABS is next on the list, but also requires an enclosed printer.

      Both ASA and ABS release toxic fumes (mitigated in part by charcoal-activated HEPA filters) that can accumulate in closed areas, so some type of ventilation system connected to the fan outlet is preferable.

      CCC

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      • #4
        The vertical hull splits are something that is favored by our European brethren, the idea being that your cylinder gets integrated into the rear section and comes out as one piece. You need to create access holes in the hull to connect the cylinder and linkages. I'm not a fan. You'll find that most new files that come from the Drydocks are horizontal splits.

        Not saying that the vertical splits are bad. You get better aesthetics, a stronger hull that is less prone to warping, and quick access for your cylinder if you implement it properly.

        Bob

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        • #5
          Thanks for the information Bob / CCC / and Rob - all good learning. I love my horizontal splits / complete hull access and GRP hulls.

          Cheers

          J
          John Slater

          Sydney Australia

          You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
          Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



          sigpic

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          • #6
            Slats,

            I have the 1/72 scale Los Angeles that you're talking about. Here's what it looks like in it's four parts, assembled and painted. I remove the bow, stern, and sail prior to installation of a 3.5" WTC. I first attach the sail via magnets to the hull, with the sail plane pushrod attached. I slide the WTC into the PVC pipe hull from aft to forward. I have a stop near the front of the pipe to halt the pushing of the WTC where I need it to be cradled at. I then attach the stern section to the pipe while linking the push rods via magnetic connectors and line up the propeller shaft dog-bone. I then hook up the sail plane linkage and then connect my snorkel mast hoses. Finally, I attach the bow and screw on the bow and stern sections with two screws each.

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            • #7
              I recently built this LA that I purchased from Bob. I built it as it came with the vertical hull splits, but used bayonets front & rear instead of the screws they provided. The bayonets are the ones that come in Arkmodel's 212 kit. They fit the hull nicely and lock the hull sections tightly.

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              • #8
                Thanks guys - nice work.

                I think I'll stick to what I know. I love being able to have horizontal access and the Subdriver WTC.

                Cheers

                J
                John Slater

                Sydney Australia

                You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
                Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



                sigpic

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