Philippines RC Kilo Build

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Moderator
    • Aug 2008
    • 12256

    #16
    Originally posted by Outrider
    Looking at the photos, the thrust washers are not compressed against the white metal bearing, but they're still pretty close (a technical term). So it looks like the small gap is just enough to allow a little play, but not enough to cause friction.

    Another thing my son pointed out was the grease that you put on the dogbones. We had some discussion here about what & why that was used. Any info on that? (Our guess was to hold the dogbone in place for the photo.)
    Jim,

    Tell Eagle-Eye that that's not grease, it's RTV adhesive on the dog-bone. I stick the dog-bone to the propeller shaft with the flexible adhesive to ease the chore of installing the SD into the hull -- takes less fingers and fidgeting (technical term: chaotic motions accompanied by high amplitude oral exclamations all aimed at achieving a specific result) to get the SD into and indexed with the hull. With the dog-bone so secured to the shaft coupler I don't have to worry about the damn thing falling into the bilge as I work the SD into position.

    So, you two got it half right, Jim. Good catch.

    David,
    Who is John Galt?

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator
      • Aug 2008
      • 12256

      #17
      Originally posted by redboat219
      So that's were those washers are suppose to go.
      Just to let you know I'm using your Kilo Cabal Reports here.

      You mention that the prop shaft goes through a 1/16" hole at the stern. Well you'll only get that if you don't cut off the tip of the styrene model. But you'll also get a stern cone tip that's smaller that your prop hub. No where in your cabal report was it mentioned that you're not suppose to cut off the tip. ( nor even a suggestion like using putty to fair over the stern cone to bring it up to the diameter of the hub ) Yet in the photos it shows clearly that the diameter of the stern cone end is the same as that of the hub suggesting you took off the tip. Doing so ( which I've done ) results in a 3 mm opening at the tip of the stern cone. As you mentioned the white metal bushing in the aft bulkhead will handle the ahead and astern thrust. My concern here would be the lateral thrust and possible erosion of the styrene brought about by a wobbly shaft.

      Well I guess you'll shoot me for this but I plan to replace the bearing I made with an unflanged one. 1/16" ID and 1/8" OD to fit flush in the hole.

      "Better is the enemy of good enough."
      Romel,

      You're right about there being way too much of a bore when you trim back the stern of the KILO hull to match the base diameter of the propeller -- that was an issue I did not address and should have. Not doing so does leave you hanging out there in left-field. Thanks for persisting here, I serve no one unless I do a better job of recounting how I do things.

      As you suggested, you can make/buy a flange-less Oilite bushing to make up the annular space between the 1/16" propeller shaft and the opening at the stern of the hull, a very neat and low-friction solution to the problem. However, all I did to keep the wobble out of the shaft back there was to put some gap-filling CA into the hole, hit it with some high pH cyanoacrylate 'accelerator' (baking soda works for me), filed the mess back flush, and drilled a 1/16" hole in the center of the CA plug. Done!

      Keep at it, Romel. Let's get that thing into the water. Which, by the way, is what Kevin Rimrodt and I were doing today, operating our r/c subs and boats at Lake Trashmore. I ran my 1/96 SKIPJACK and 1/144 KILO. Both performed well and we had a great afternoon. You'll find your KILO to be an easy to maintain, easy to transport, and fun ride once its done and dialed in. By the way, with a 1300 mAh Lithium-polymer batter, I get over two hours of constant running from that boat. Wow!

      Kevin and I got into some heavy duty war-games out there: his 1/144 BURKE, being stalked and chased by my 1/144 KILO. Some real good cat-and-mouse stuff, we gave the folks a very good show today.

      David,
      Last edited by Outrider; 06-01-2010, 09:04 AM.
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • Outrider
        Commander
        • Aug 2008
        • 304

        #18
        Originally posted by Merriman

        As you suggested, you can make/buy a flange-less Oilite bushing to make up the annular space between the 1/16" propeller shaft and the opening at the stern of the hull, a very neat and low-friction solution to the problem. However, all I did to keep the wobble out of the shaft back there was to put some gap-filling CA into the hole, hit it with some high pH cyanoacrylate 'accelerator' (baking soda works for me), filed the mess back flush, and drilled a 1/16" hole in the center of the CA plug. Done!
        Sounds good here, but isn't there a problem with sourcing the Oilite bushing? My favorite source: http://www.caswellplating.com/models/oiltite.html doesn't seem to list any oillite bearings with a 1/16 inner diameter. If I remember correctly, that's why the bulkhead mounted thrust bearing is made out of white metal. So what's the sensible way to proceed, scouring the earth for Oilite bearings, finding and drilling/machining Oilite stock, or the special wizardry that results in a custom fit white metal casting?

        Comment

        • redboat219
          Admiral
          • Dec 2008
          • 2735

          #19
          Originally posted by Outrider
          but isn't there a problem with sourcing the Oilite bushing with a 1/16 inner diameter.
          That's why I initially had the stern cone bearing turned from brass stock.

          Originally posted by Outrider
          So what's the sensible way to proceed, scouring the earth for Oilite bearings, finding and drilling/machining Oilite stock, or the special wizardry that results in a custom fit white metal casting?
          I just followed the Wizard's advice of using superglue and baking soda.
          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

          Comment

          • Outrider
            Commander
            • Aug 2008
            • 304

            #20
            Nothing wrong with CA and baking soda, as long as it isn't too brittle, or too abrasive, and as long as it looks OK. But I get the sense that this is just a workaround and that even something like a resin plug might be a better solution if a bearing is overkill (or simply "too hard fot what it's worth.")

            Comment

            • redboat219
              Admiral
              • Dec 2008
              • 2735

              #21
              I've thought about using a 2 part waterproof epoxy putty which I can knead and push into the stern cone and later drill out. But David pointed out that epoxy has somewhat poor binding properties to styrene as compared to super glue.
              Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

              Comment

              • redboat219
                Admiral
                • Dec 2008
                • 2735

                #22
                Well here are a couple images of the CA+Baking soda stern cone bearing I made. First I covered the outer end of the tail cone with a piece of masking tape then stood the hull tail down. I put in a pinch of baking soda inside then added a drop of super glue. After the CA/soda set I used a 1/16" drill bit to drill out the center to accept the drive shaft.


                Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                Comment

                • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                  Moderator
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 12256

                  #23
                  Well done, sir!

                  David,
                  Who is John Galt?

                  Comment

                  • redboat219
                    Admiral
                    • Dec 2008
                    • 2735

                    #24
                    A question to the Wizard.
                    Do the ends of the 1/16" control rods that go into the white metal control arms for the stern planes and rudder incorporate Z or U-bends or are they just bent at right angles? It seems awfully tight inside the stern cone.
                    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                    Comment

                    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                      Moderator
                      • Aug 2008
                      • 12256

                      #25
                      Z-bends.

                      David,
                      Who is John Galt?

                      Comment

                      • redboat219
                        Admiral
                        • Dec 2008
                        • 2735

                        #26
                        Kilo SD won't fit

                        I've run into a minor obstacle today. After gluing in the aft bearing bulkhead I proceeded in installing the SD support saddles. As I was sliding the SD into the hull I noticed that the aft endcap had gone in as far as it would but the front endcap was still outside the hull. The front endcap was being obstructed by the curve of the bow. I measured my SD to compare against the one being advertised here -14". The battery compartment was 3.5" long, Ballast tank was 3.5" and the aft compartment was 6". I didn't include the shafts but my measurement were close. So why won't my SD fit?
                        Attached Files
                        Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                        Comment

                        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                          Moderator
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 12256

                          #27
                          What's pictured is a SEAWOLF SD, not a KILO SD. The SEAWOLF SD is too long for the KILO hull.

                          David,
                          Who is John Galt?

                          Comment

                          • redboat219
                            Admiral
                            • Dec 2008
                            • 2735

                            #28
                            Originally posted by Merriman
                            What's pictured is a SEAWOLF SD, not a KILO SD. The SEAWOLF SD is too long for the KILO hull.

                            David,
                            Yikes! After all the efforts I've put in...So that's why the snort's induction tubing is located way up front.
                            How long should the Kilo SD be?

                            With the current situation this is what I've concluded.

                            Options:
                            1. Get a Kilo-specific SD.
                            2. Get a Trumpeter Seawolf and do a new conversion project to utilize the SD I have at present.
                            3. Use the current SD but trim back some of the forward battery compartment so that it'll fit into the Kilo's hull.

                            Advantages & disadvantages of options:
                            1. Will be able to complete build but with additional expenses and time delay in build waiting for new SD to arrive.
                            2. Cheaper but will have to start again from zero and put Kilo build on indefinite hold until specific SD is acquired.
                            3. Cheapest option but have no experience in working with lexan plus risk of damage to current SD.
                            Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                            Comment

                            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                              Moderator
                              • Aug 2008
                              • 12256

                              #29
                              How about a bit of both:

                              You get a SEAWOLF kit from Mike (along with the r/c system, ADF, battery, and other items needed to outfit your KILO SD) and use the just completed SD in that.

                              You send me your address via e-mail and I'll fix you up with a KILO SD kit and you outfit that for your finished KILO (I'll also slip in a SEAWOLF fittings kit).

                              Mike: Don't say a word! ... Ellie said so. Them Filipino's stick together.

                              David,
                              Who is John Galt?

                              Comment

                              • redboat219
                                Admiral
                                • Dec 2008
                                • 2735

                                #30
                                Email sent.
                                Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                                Comment

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