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Philippines RC Kilo Build

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  • Philippines RC Kilo Build

    I'm finally starting my Kilo RC conversion. Thanks to David Merriman for his excellent SD unit and fittings.

    RC hobbyist here are few and most are into car/trucks, planes and helis. There is a small group of boaters (sailboats, FE and gas, some scale).
    I've talked only to a couple of guys here who are into subs. One made a dynamic diver out of PVC pipes while the other one is currently building a Dumas Akula. AFAIK, I'm the only one here doing a static diver.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by redboat219; 06-06-2009, 11:58 AM.
    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

  • #2
    We are really short of builds on this neat little boat. So please post as many pictures as possible showing your progression. I'd love to see a shot of each part of the Fittings Kit as you install it.

    I think a lot of people would be very interested in this.
    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

    Comment


    • #3
      A somewhat different scheme for the Kilo

      :wink:Hi everybody:
      Just to show some pics of my recently finished 1/144 Kilo.
      Hope you like it.
      Cheers
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes, I like it, especially the scum line around it!
        Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice Ironhorse.
          Other than the 3 blade prop everything is OTB.
          What WTC are you using?
          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

          Comment


          • #6
            I love it Ironhorse. You did a super job. Nice paint. I need a smaller boat for the pool. Toilet bowl size I think mike says. I was thinking of a skipjack. Maybe a kilo, Just waiting for the money to catch up with my thinking.

            Jack

            Comment


            • #7
              ....different scheme for the kilo

              Hi Folks:
              It uses a RCABS cylinder with some personal mods (like the addition of a flattened brass tube inserted in the tube which connects the bladder with the Schroeder valve and allows for a far more controllable deflation and hence a much more lineal control)Also a Engel Mini APC (terrific stuff!!).A more elaborated and better isolated wire passage and a cheater Lexan rudder added to the existing one.
              And yes it runs superbly.

              Thank you for your interest

              Comment


              • #8
                After a long hiatus here some updates on my build.
                I've trimmed the bottom stabilizer to accept the resin rudder piece and attached the stern planes using epoxy( I used epoxy because i read that CA has a low shear strength.) . I've also drilled out the bottom vents. Next I drilled out the sail windows and after applying some scotch tape on the outside filled them from the inside with clear epoxy to simulate the glazing ( I temporarily illuminated the windows with anl LED torch so you guys can see the effect of the epoxy windows). Finally, instead of using the the flat brass washer I had a flanged thrust bearing made. The outer end is 5 mm in diameter to accept the propeller hub while the inner end is 3 mm.

                I ran into some problems with my stern planes while cleaning them with lacquer thinner. I broke off the trailing edge of the outer bearing hole on one of the stabilizer and cracked one wall off another stab. Dave came to my rescue and advised me how to reattach the broken off piece using CA and some baking soda. Well I didn't follow his instructions precisely about using a greased rod to keep the hole patent so I ended up drilling out the CA/ baking soda which leaked in and plugged up the hole. Not willing to go through the same trouble twice I applied the greased rod to repairing the crack on the second stab.

                After attaching both stabs I noticed that the square brass tube is binding with one of the outer bearing hole. This may have been caused by the short rod I used to align the stabs during gluing. The rod only went from the outer and inner bearing hole of one stab to the inner bearing hole of the other. This probably left the outer hole slightly out of alignment by a couple of millimeters. Seems easy to fix since the stab is made of resin some hot water an I can coax the tip up or down to align the holes.
                Attached Files
                Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                Comment


                • #9
                  looking good. Keep at it.

                  David,
                  Resident Luddite

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've encountered some technical problems with the stern cone bearing and prop shaft. The one from fitting kit looks like a brass washer 0.5 mm thick with a 5mm OD with a 2mm ID. Since the ID is bigger than the shaft's I was concerned that the shaft would wobble during operationso I had a new thrust bearing made for the tip of the stern cone.



                    On the left is my stern bearing, the washer on the left is from David Merriman's fitting set.


                    It has a 5mm OD with a 1.5mm ID for the prop shaft. I had one end reduced to a 3mm OD for anchoring in the the stern cone. The outside flange is about a millimeter thick.


                    Unfortunately when I test fitted everything I notice that the shaft projected only about 2-3 mm pass the inner bulkhead face. When I fitted the dogbone coupler to the shaft it rubbed against the bulkhead face.


                    If I remove my bearing then the prop shaft extends to about 5mm pass the bulkhead face.


                    Well I guess my option here would be to thin down the outer flange of my stern cone bearing ( to about 0.5mm) so as to let the prop shaft extend further in OR cut down the plastic stern cone some more and have a new bearing made.
                    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      MAKE IT SIMPLE!

                      Build it the way I show you -- no bearing at the stern, just a 1/16" diameter hole. The thrust loads (astern and ahead) are taken up at the white-metal bearing. Put that wheel-collar back in there, between the after portion of shaft and the after face of the white-metal thrust bearing.

                      Start over and configure the running gear (drive train) like this: The propeller just hangs off the after end of the propeller shaft without any bearing at all ... other that the bare 1/16" diameter hole in the styrene ass-end of the submarine; the forward face of the propeller hub situated with a very small gap between its face and the end of the model, .020" is good, shoot for that clearance. NO thrust loads should be presented at the ass-end of the model!

                      ALL THRUST LOADS ARE TAKEN AT THE WHITE-METAL BEARING SET WITHIN THE AFTER BULKHEAD!!!!!

                      Click image for larger version

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                      Remember that white-metal bearing that came with your fittings kit?! It's intended not only to take the transverse loads, but also the ahead and astern thrust loads. The ahead thrust load presents from the forward face of the wheel-collar, a thrust washer, and finally the after face of the white-metal thrust washer. The astern loads present from the after face of the resin universal coupler, a thrust washer, and the forward face of the white-metal thrust washer.

                      The only thing the shaft hits and presents a load to at the bore of the 1/16" hole you drill in the ass-end of the hull are transverse forces, and these are so low as to not matter a bit.

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                      Note the 1/16" wheel-collar attached to the propeller shaft, aft of the white-metal thrust washer! See the stainless steel thrust washer between the wheel-collar and white metal thrust bearing?

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                      Get that Oilite bearing out of there -- only then will you gain the lost length of shaft needed to properly engage the bore of the propeller hub!

                      Why do you guys keep messing around with perfection?

                      David,
                      Attached Files
                      Resident Luddite

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Merriman View Post

                        Why do you guys keep messing around with perfection?

                        David,
                        I dunno, lack of instructions maybe... ; )

                        Once you get past the rants, the previous post tells you even more than you'd get in most instruction manuals. Maybe we can save this text for a manual to be published later...

                        Procedure: Build it as shown in the photos -- no bearing at the stern, just a 1/16" diameter exit hole. The propeller just hangs off the aft end of the propeller shaft without any bearing in the skin of the polystyrene at the stern. The forward face of the propeller hub should have an .020 gap between its leading edge and the end of the model's polystyrene hull. The wheel-collar should be installed between the after portion of shaft and the after face of the white-metal thrust bearing. Also note (and install) stainless steel thrust washers between the white metal bearing and the adjacent fittings. (See photo 5)

                        Engineering Information: The thrust loads (astern and ahead) are taken up at the white-metal bearing which is press fit (or CAed?) into the bulkhead created as a bearing rest. The wheel collar prevents the shaft from moving toward the bow. The resin universal coupler (dog bone receptacle) prevents the shaft from moving aft. There is no need for a bearing where the shaft exits the hull, as the white metal bearing is more than sufficient for the forces generated by the SubDriver.
                        Last edited by Outrider; 05-22-2010, 10:54 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Outrider View Post
                          I dunno, lack of instructions maybe... ; )

                          Once you get past the rants, the previous post tells you even more than you'd get in most instruction manuals. Maybe we can save this text for a manual to be published later...

                          Procedure: Build it as shown in the photos -- no bearing at the stern, just a 1/16" diameter exit hole. The propeller just hangs off the aft end of the propeller shaft without any bearing in the skin of the polystyrene at the stern. The forward face of the propeller hub should have an .020 gap between its leading edge and the end of the model's polystyrene hull. The wheel-collar should be installed between the after portion of shaft and the after face of the white-metal thrust bearing. Also note (and install) stainless steel thrust washers between the white metal bearing and the adjacent fittings. (See photo 5)

                          Engineering Information: The thrust loads (astern and ahead) are taken up at the white-metal bearing which is press fit (or CA'ed?) into the bulkhead created as a bearing rest. The wheel collar prevents the shaft from moving toward the bow. The resin universal coupler (dog bone receptacle) prevents the shaft from moving aft. There is no need for a bearing where the shaft exits the hull, as the white metal bearing is more than sufficient for the forces generated by the SubDriver.
                          YEAH!!! ... What he just said.

                          (CA'ed).

                          Ouch! You're right, of course, Jim. I should write up a proper text to go with the pretty pictures. In time.

                          David,
                          Last edited by Outrider; 05-22-2010, 10:53 PM.
                          Resident Luddite

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Looking at the photos, the thrust washers are not compressed against the white metal bearing, but they're still pretty close (a technical term). So it looks like the small gap is just enough to allow a little play, but not enough to cause friction.

                            Another thing my son pointed out was the grease that you put on the dogbones. We had some discussion here about what & why that was used. Any info on that? (Our guess was to hold the dogbone in place for the photo.)
                            Last edited by Outrider; 05-23-2010, 11:41 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              So that's were those washers are suppose to go.
                              Just to let you know I'm using your Kilo Cabal Reports here.

                              You mention that the prop shaft goes through a 1/16" hole at the stern. Well you'll only get that if you don't cut off the tip of the styrene model. But you'll also get a stern cone tip that's smaller that your prop hub. No where in your cabal report was it mentioned that you're not suppose to cut off the tip. ( nor even a suggestion like using putty to fair over the stern cone to bring it up to the diameter of the hub ) Yet in the photos it shows clearly that the diameter of the stern cone end is the same as that of the hub suggesting you took off the tip. Doing so ( which I've done ) results in a 3 mm opening at the tip of the stern cone. As you mentioned the white metal bushing in the aft bulkhead will handle the ahead and astern thrust. My concern here would be the lateral thrust and possible erosion of the styrene brought about by a wobbly shaft.

                              Well I guess you'll shoot me for this but I plan to replace the bearing I made with an unflanged one. 1/16" ID and 1/8" OD to fit flush in the hole.

                              "Better is the enemy of good enough."
                              Last edited by redboat219; 05-23-2010, 01:13 PM.
                              Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                              Comment

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