DeBoer Seaview

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Permit me to gush a bit -- no one appreciates the problems you've had with fit and failed gel-coat on this kit than me! You're doing a wonderful job on this.

Though the louvers you've made are a bit better (area wise) than the production version you'll need much more inlet area to satisfy the needs of the pump-jets. You know this. Bite the bullet and open up the mini-sub hatch, that will help a lot. And like you suggested, opening up an array of flood-drain ports on the bottom of the hull will also aid in this effort.

I don't see any mis-steps so far. Keep up the good work. Am awaiting more progress reports on this assembly. Well done, sir!

David,

[JohnG]

57" Build Part 4

.....continued.....Pics left to right:

1 & 2 further repair, reinforcing, praying etc...use of styrene strips & industrial AC, Everecoat...
3- Don't get mad, get even--I drew up a whole set of Limberhole plates on my CAD program & took them down to my friendly neighborhood laser cutter dude, & VIOLA! perfect, precision Limberholes!
4- Looks great!
5- NOt bad, & what a relief. I have a lot of these sets of Limberhole plates, if anyone needs them.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Oh ...

... and you're killing yourself trying to preserve the kit missile hatch disks and centrally running spine! Grind 'em off, work the flat deck (concave, right?) with filler and sanding block and add styrene disks and spine later.

God, what a nightmare trying to cut around those deck high-relief items with rifler files and special sanding tools!

Save yourself the aggravation and shave those bumps off the top of the deck ... now!

David,

[JohnG]

57" Build Part 5

.......continued......From left to right:

1- The Flying Sub hatch doors supplied were totally inadequate & out of scale....So, out with some "Evergreen Plastics' styrene serrated roofing. (you can see the size on the package for those wishing to do the same)
2 & 3 after much fiddling about to get the exact contour of the opening, contracted a framework & attached high strength magnets to the four corners.
4- Fits like a glove, & strong too. To release, simply push on framework from atop though hull.
5- here is the goofy support structure for Merrimans awesome observation room kit.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Good fix on the limber holes topside. Now, for the bad news: you have at least seven different substrates involved here (GRP, gel-coat, various adhesives, the limber hole blank material itself, two-part polyester filler, putty, and primer/paint), each with its own expansion/compression rate as a consequence of temperature change.

Cracking!

So, don't let this completed model of yours suffer under the rays of the afternoon sun only to have it unceremoniously plopped into the nice cool water when you're ready to play. Do all you can to minimize extreme and quick temperature changes to the model.

David,

[JohnG]

57" Build Part 6

.....continues.....Pics left to right:

1- shows the top access hatch for the "rudder room"
2- perfect limberholes (if there is such a thing) & the forward facing engine tube intake grates.
3- Limberholes fore, looks fine!
4- forgot this one, & although I neglected to take shots of it, had to add a significant amount of material to bring the opening at the top of hull IN, becaue it was cut too wide & the deck did NOT cover it adequately. It was a major job with West System & evercoat, but thankfully I learned while I was performing it AND luckily didn't screw up!

[JohnG]

The Mothership

Last year I had the luck to find the curator of Paul Allen's Sci-Fi museum in Seattle (close to where I live) & was able to meet him & have some 'alone time' with the original 17 foot Seaview filming miniature, as restored by David. It is not on public display.
They had it suspended in the air, (not sure I want to know what drilling & such they did to get it to hang). To make room for other exhibits, they were taking Seaview down & putting in a very expensive custom 'crate' to be stored. I hope they bring it out again some day. Rest assured, these experienced museum guys will take superb care of her for the foreseeable future, nice to know it will be preserved properly.

[JohnG]

Good fix on the limber holes topside. Now, for the bad news: you have at least seven different substrates involved here (GRP, gel-coat, various adhesives, the limber hole blank material itself, two-part polyester filler, putty, and primer/paint), each with its own expansion/compression rate as a consequence of temperature change.

Cracking!

So, don't let this completed model of yours suffer under the rays of the afternoon sun only to have it unceremoniously plopped into the nice cool water when you're ready to play. Do all you can to minimize extreme and quick temperature changes to the model.

David,

Oy vay, I know....this may have all been a huge education in prep for the 80", & the 57" may become a display only. Horrors! It's kinda of fragile & I hope Dennis has new gel coat or we will have a talk before the 80" gets cast up! I can upsize the laser limberholes if I have to, but I hope it's not nece.

[JohnG]

Permit me to gush a bit -- no one appreciates the problems you've had with fit and failed gel-coat on this kit than me! You're doing a wonderful job on this.

Though the louvers you've made are a bit better (area wise) than the production version you'll need much more inlet area to satisfy the needs of the pump-jets. You know this. Bite the bullet and open up the mini-sub hatch, that will help a lot. And like you suggested, opening up an array of flood-drain ports on the bottom of the hull will also aid in this effort.

I don't see any mis-steps so far. Keep up the good work. Am awaiting more progress reports on this assembly. Well done, sir!

David,

I have another trick up my sleeve first, that I will try, then... when I can't get it to answer bells for full ahead, then the bell doors come off!

[JohnG]

Oh ...

... and you're killing yourself trying to preserve the kit missile hatch disks and centrally running spine! Grind 'em off, work the flat deck (concave, right?) with filler and sanding block and add styrene disks and spine later.

God, what a nightmare trying to cut around those deck high-relief items with rifler files and special sanding tools!

Save yourself the aggravation and shave those bumps off the top of the deck ... now!

David,

Yes, you are correct, but this deck (the second one I got from Dennis, (first one totally disintegrated) is SO brittle, it may just crumble into chunks like the sides. I'll work up enough nerve & go for it anyway. What say I brush on a coat of AC first?

[ADDINGTON]

JohnG and LOFTRIDER:
Any updates?
Can you tell us what your propulsion devices are?
Props? Pumpjets?
-Kerry

[JohnG]

All the operating gear is Merriman. I have a 3.5" WTC, pumpjets specifically designed for this boat. Some additional work for the steering gear room & then trimming. After that, it should be ready.
John

[Kazzer]

then maybe I can help you out and Dennis too. With Mr. Caswell's permission, of course.

David,

Hey! You're a big boy! You don't need my permission BUT ----- Just remember today's magic word!


TORPEDOES!

:-)

[ADDINGTON]

JohnG and/or LOFTRIDER..

Can you specify or estimate the capacity in fluid oz of your ballast tank?
-Kerry

[JohnG]

It's the standard Merriman 3 1/2" WTC.
Maybe David can spill on the operating specifications.
John