Revell 1/232 scale Skipjack

[trout]

Thank you guys.
Just a quick reference.
If anyone wants to build this kit, there are two things I definitely recommend.
The first is the fittings kit: http://www.sub-driver.com/fittings-k...tings-kit.html not to be confused with the 1/72 version. This one, as we build, you will see the incredible detail this kit adds.

Here is the Sub-Driver Sam and I are putting in this sub: http://www.sub-driver.com/sub-driver...river-kit.html
This little unit can be used for two shaft or single shaft submarines. Sam likes the Typhoon in Hunt for Red October - I have an old model of it and maybe someday we might try to convert it using this great little Sub-Driver. I think it will fit.

The other electronics can be purchased at the sub-driver.com site and other places as well.
It is fun to show and teach Sam new techniques. He is fixated on the nuclear reactor and we will probably attach it to the stand. Any hints on painting the unit? I am sure this is a completely accurate reactor (especially after looking at what needs to be modified on the sub). Should it be a traditional silver device? Maybe I can find a nuclear warning decal for it :-)

Peace,
tom

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sam's fixation on the reactor is a teaching moment -- an opportunity to introduce him to how the S5W steam plant works. A project you two can slap together in model form.

The reactor vessel you have will become the core element of an otherwise scratch-built assembly of steam generator, valves, foundations, pressurizer, main circulation pumps, cut-away hull with tunnel, and associated plumbing. A diorama, if you will; a stand-alone display associated with the SKIPJACK display.

(I can see Rickover spinning in his grave).

Hello school Science Fair!

M

[trout]

Yes that is all I need. Build a reactor, I can see the news. I am still fretting about the gaps and studying the prior posts. Something seems off. I think I need to trim one or both tubes back a bit.
Here are David's pictures:


On Sam's Sub-Driver it looks too long (look at the engine compartment):

David, this Sub-Driver measures 9 3/4" end cap to end cap (not including motor shaft). Would you measure your Sub-Driver from your little Skipjack and let me know what it is?
I suspect that I will need to take a chunk out (1" to 1 1/4" me thinks) and the halves will fit better.

[vital.spark]

Sam, Tom,

This little boat has quite a few items that will get you to scratch your head! I found it as difficult as any of the other 3 subs I built. I think David made the subdriver longer for the later production run so you could use it in other small subs as well to give the extra bouyancy that they may require.

I used David method of using CA/ baking soda to build up the gaps. Wait till you get into the linckage set up and you will really start to pull your hair out!

Good Luck,

Myron

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, you have more Lexan tube than you need. Test fit all the devices, see how much you can chop off of each tube, and make it so. The SD will then fit.

Youngster contaminates neighborhood with radiation ... film at Eleven!

M

[trout]

Thank you gentlemen for your help.
Myron, O.K., on the linkages, what did you do to get it to work? I think once the tube is trimmed back, I am not to worried about the gap. It was more the fit was not right and I had to really squeeze to get a smaller gap. Thank you on the CA and Baking Soda tip. I was going back and forth on using CA/Baking Soda or, like the Type XXIII, use metal glaze with CA reinforcement.

Also, on the outermost edge of the planes, do I put a wire coming in to hold it?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank you gentlemen for your help.
Myron, O.K., on the linkages, what did you do to get it to work? I think once the tube is trimmed back, I am not to worried about the gap. It was more the fit was not right and I had to really squeeze to get a smaller gap. Thank you on the CA and Baking Soda tip. I was going back and forth on using CA/Baking Soda or, like the Type XXIII, use metal glaze with CA reinforcement.

Also, on the outermost edge of the planes, do I put a wire coming in to hold it?

Though this shot is of the mocking-up of the stern plane and other masters, it does demonstrate the use of an outboard pin. A length of .014" brass wire; a 'bearing pin' at the outboard end of a stern plane. That's how I do it. However, if you wish, you can substitute a length of stretched sprue if you wish. Yes, put a pin in there to keep the stern planes from flopping around.

You can just make out the pins in these shots.

M

[vital.spark]

The outboard pin is more easier said then done! I managed to be a bit heavy handed on the sanding, enough that I didnt have enough material to be able to drill the hole in! So, don't do as I did. The heavy sanding was caused when one of the thin extensions where the pin passes through was broaken off and I had to fabricate one! I didn't realize at the time that a pin had to go throug the extension.

[trout]

Thank you both. It helps to know what to be careful with.

[trout]

I am posting for Sam.
The tube was marked at 1" and 1 1/4" to see how components fit. We could always take more off, but not put it back on so we began at 1". Sam marked the tube by holding the Sharpen the 1" mark and we just twisted the tube flat on the table. That made a nice even line.

Knowing what I know now, We probably could have taken only 3/4" off instead of the full 1", oh well.

Sam began the sawing, but I finished it off. He felt it would be better if I did it. O.K., I am not going to push him too hard.

Once it was cut, the end was sanded and using an x-acto, put a bevel on the inside edge. This bevel helps the tube go over the o-ring and not cut or damage the rubber ring.

The gap is significantly reduced.


The aft plane foundation was adhered to the lower hull with CA. The upper piece is used to align the lower. It is all taped together and CA placed on the lower piece only. We set aside to firm up.


Once it was setup, I put tape on the inside of the hull to act like a dam as we fill the gap on each side. Taped the ends to hold it together.

We need to wait for another day to fill, as it was getting late.
Looking at the bow section, I may need to move my original line further aft.

[crazygary]

Way to go, "Sailor Sam"!!!
Coming along pretty awesomely!!
Wish we had many more young modelers such as yourself!!!
Congratulations, and "full speed ahead"!!

crazygary

[Trout Fry]

Thank you for the encouragement.
Here I am working the sub with tape to build up a wall and fill in the gap.


I am working on filling in the space from the hull to the tape with baking soda.



Here I am leveling the baking soda.


I am working on putting CA on the baking soda to make a solid barrier.



You can see the barrier worked well, but we are going to add a coating of metal glaze.



This is a screed that we are going to use to put a layer of metal glaze.


You can see we will use a screed to give the bow a more accurate shape.

[trout]

Just some added info. Originally, I was going to have Sam do the metal glaze, but David and Myron's advice kept ringing in my head. So we went forward with the CA/baking soda first.
In teaching this to Sam, the procedures were explained first, demonstrated on one side and let him do the other side. It worked well to help Sam overcome some apprehensions.
The screed steps we went over several times. I will demonstrate on one side, but Sam will do the other. Hopefully I can get him to do the rhinoplasty on the bow himself.
Speaking of the bow, The first marked line closest to the bow is where I was going to originally cut the bow, but I think we will move the line further aft shown here:

The first mark is at the second weld line, the new mark is halfway between the second and third weld line. My reasoning is from looking at the parts in the fitting kit. There is a piece that looks to serve as the bow flange, but also as a sub-driver stop (to prevent forward motion of the wtc) and the first mark was just way too forward.

[trout]

I had Sam cut the lower hull. This picture is staged because I did not think of taking a picture as I was watching Sam cutting along the line



We are not putting in the switch. Sam cut the lower half off. This was done so the pillar on the bow foundation to fit.


Had I been thinking, I should have guided Sam to cut it so that just the pillar would fit.


The alignment is really good.


The aft pillar is put in and slid under the end cap of the Sub-Driver. Once it was there it was affixed with one drop of CA just under the prop shaft on the lower hull and allowed to flow to the aft foundation.


The wtc is removed and baking soda is applied. Sam was taught about fillet (I assumed it is the French pronunciation) instead of fill-it

[HardRock]

Explain, demonstrate, imitate. Go get 'em tiger!