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Not so bad.....very fixable. You can melt styrene in liquid glue and apply it like a putty along one side of the cut to fill in or use a bondo type filler to help fill in. Then use a metal gauge (feeler gauge), thin shim, or x-acto knife to create the line for separation. You will get there.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
David I think using C-4 would have done a better job! Live and learn will be better next boat. I will give the melted styrene trick first that sound slick. I know it a little early but what about paint. I understand decanting a rattle can and might try that as I get my nerve up, Trout what did you use for paint on your skipjack. Will be 1st time using a air gun. Lots of first here but you have to start sometime.. Thanks
US Submarine Force: Making the Navy worthwhile since 1900
David I think using C-4 would have done a better job! Live and learn will be better next boat. I will give the melted styrene trick first that sound slick. I know it a little early but what about paint. I understand decanting a rattle can and might try that as I get my nerve up, Trout what did you use for paint on your skipjack. Will be 1st time using a air gun. Lots of first here but you have to start sometime.. Thanks
The Krylon paints have merit. I use professional automotive, two-part polyurethane (ChromaColor) paints. At the very least get a Paasche H-model single-action gun and a gallon of Nason primer and the right thinner for it (Mattos is in town, off Wichduck and VB blvd.).
Trout what did you use for paint on your skipjack. Will be 1st time using a air gun. Lots of first here but you have to start sometime.. Thanks
(Whispering) Do not let He Who Shall Not Be Named aka M hear this, but I used rattle can paint, Krylon, and sprayed out of the can. Primer was also out of the can. If you decant your paint, please document that. I have not done that yet. Yes there are a lot of firsts and they continue to occur.
Really excited about the work you are doing and the fact you are documenting it too. Someone in the future will be looking for guidance and use your build!
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
I
(Whispering) Do not let He Who Shall Not Be Named aka M hear this, but I used rattle can paint, Krylon, and sprayed out of the can. Primer was also out of the can. If you decant your paint, please document that. I have not done that yet. Yes there are a lot of firsts and they continue to occur.
Really excited about the work you are doing and the fact you are documenting it too. Someone in the future will be looking for guidance and use your build!
I did it as per Hephaestus instructions.....instead of a nail I used a drywall screw....they have a very sharp point and are hardened.
You need a LONG jar, the process is accompanied with a lot of foam build up in the jar,
I was lucky the rattle can was almost empty.
Remarkably a few hours later my beloved wife noticed that a red dot had appeared in the lawn ..my proposal to do the hole lawn was rejected ..and from then on long jars appear from time to time on my table in the basement ....shes the best!
I decanted the paint two months ago and it's still good.
Grtz,
Bart
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience. "Samuel Smiles"
I have the z cut made and the flanges on the hull pieces. I am having trouble with the alignment, I am going to put tabs on the upper hull portion. I have noticed the people have ground down the alignment pins. I think this is what is keeping me from getting the hull to close. Should I grind down the pins? the female end?
The guide pins along the both the top hull and bottom half of the hull to align it as it goes together. You can see four of them in this picture there are two right at the hull break also
US Submarine Force: Making the Navy worthwhile since 1900
in greenman407's post #366 of his skipjack build http://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/bu...ck-1-72/page25 . It show where he put the forward piece of the preformed foam kit. It looks like this would block the 1st 2 pairs of MBT vents. Do you just drill the vents on thru the foam after it is in place or ?
Thanks Steve
US Submarine Force: Making the Navy worthwhile since 1900
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