Scaleships Akula II

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  • Peter W
    replied
    It is supposed to be based on K-157 Wild Boar or Vepr. So I imagine the 2nd 1 down. I believe that it depicts an Akula II of which there were only 1 or 2 of the other 2 apart from Gepard which is designated as Akula III are Akula I and Improved Akula. I understand that the term Akula II is overused based on there only being a few hulls but if you read up on the Russian forums it seems every Akula hull was different in some way or other.

    Peter.

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  • greenman407
    replied
    Peter, here are the four "Known" Akula types. Which one do you have? Just curious.
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    Last edited by greenman407; 01-08-2013, 04:58 PM.

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  • greenman407
    replied
    If you ask Dave, his answer would be an obvious and resounding YES! Bird droppings and all(dont forget the rust). However , if you dont have the experience at weathering, more to likely you stand a chance of disappointing results and a desire to scrub her all down and repaint. Its best to get a good deal of practice first on stuff you dont care about, have a plan as to exactly what you want to accomplish first. It might be best, if your going to do it, to do it a little at a time.Sail her some and then come back and do a little more. That way you wont overdo it.

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  • Peter W
    replied
    Mark, Good try but no. There was a touch of the rant about that part of the post the actual answer is 2 hours of filing. I just couldn't get the holes to my liking but now I am happy.

    Thank you for the picture, I do actually have this one. We obviously both patrol the same rather wonderful Russian websites. I have been wondering whether to take the weathering that extreme, as in the picture, over the whole model. Something else to think about.

    Peter.

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  • greenman407
    replied
    The difference between the first and second pics? Looks like you put a bulkhead or something behind each hole. If you do have to rebuild your SOKS aerials , here is a picture of the ones on the deck in front of the sail.
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  • Peter W
    replied
    Sound advice Mark, I plan to pin, screw, glue and anything else I can think of the small parts to the hull.

    Andy- that is something to think about for sure, consider me pondering.

    Right here are some more and 1st a quiz. What is the difference between the 1st pic and the 2nd pic ?
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    The above has been previously posted. But can you tell the difference with the one below ?

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    Below I have marked out where I want to add 2 extra pairs of hole using Tamiya tape.

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    And here is the holes I have added drilled and filed, the new ones are marked with a bit of the tape above them. 28 holes down 6 to go.
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    Peter

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  • Subculture
    replied
    It was the SOKS sensors that I remember kept doing a vanishing act.

    Not sure what the kit originals are made from, but if they're not brass, I'd remake them from some and then hard solder them together, and make sure they're very firmly bonded into the hull with some mechanical locking on the underside. Can't see them goign missing then unless you hit something very hard, and wipe out the rest of the hull!

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  • greenman407
    replied
    Great start Peter. My appendages such as the four water scoops I installed using small screws from the inside and CAed them. DONT HIT NOTHING!:biggrin:
    Last edited by greenman407; 01-07-2013, 09:54 AM.

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  • Peter W
    replied
    Andy- duly noted, I have been wondering about the SOKS sensors and how to keep them from being wrenched off, ruggedizing is probably the only way to go but was considering not fitting the below surface SOKS.

    David- thank you, praise indeed.

    Juan - have watched the you tube video of your sub a few times, very nice model. Have sent you a PM.

    Peter

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  • reddevil
    replied
    By the way: Did you contacted with Vladimir? Cause I've been trying and had no answer.

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  • reddevil
    replied
    HAve a look at YOU TUBE "AKULA II SEA TRIALS". That's mine sailing. Problems with pressure inside the WTC are solved, and Ramesh WTC desing performs superbly. You'll have to make a little choice between scale waterline and stability, but as you can see, the sub looks really well sat on surface. I haven't any problem with all the items around the hull. I normally make a patrol every weekend if weather is fine. More than an hour running. Tomorrow is a big holiday here (Magic Kings Day; all the children receiving their Chistmas presents), and have dated at the pond with two boys to make a patrol with my sub and the RC ships they're receiving.
    Happy New Year to all the crew from Madrid.
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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    I like your work with the tools. Careful stuff. Cary on, sir!


    A magnificent kit. A smart purchase.

    David

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  • Subculture
    replied
    Okay.

    Ramesh built one of these up, but he doesn't bring it out much- he found all the little bits and pieces on it were a bit fragile, and kept getting knocked off. So you might want to think about making some of bits removeable for when running it in the drink- perhaps make use of some magnets to hold bits on. Either that or ruggedize them.

    He used a 500ml engel tank in a 10cm diameter acrylic tube. Initially he had some problems with stability, which were remedied by adding some foam in the upper hull, and a bit more lead in the keel. I believe he had to accept a slightly sub-scale waterline, but the boat was stable and it was very close indeed.

    A chap in Spain pretty much carbon copied the design of the module, but used a bigger piston tank to try and get a scale waterline. He found problems with too much pressure inside his cylinder. So you might want to consider a different ballast system, or a hybrid based one which keeps the internal pressure within sensible limits.

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  • Peter W
    replied
    Hello Andy, Definitely RC, rude not to really.

    Peter

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  • Subculture
    replied
    Are you building this as a static model, or for R/C?

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