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Looks more like some kind of Pod with a pressure tight door on the end
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Looks more like some kind of Pod with a pressure tight door on the endNext time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:pop -
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There appears to be a flange inside the butchered part as if its a removable segmentNext time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:popComment
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Interesting...I remember reading something back in the day that the extension of the sail to make it larger was one of the factors in Astute being so late in delivery. I wonder if this was the reason for that extension?Comment
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John Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
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Joel any new works in progress?
JJohn Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
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Sometimes its not very hard to spot the engineering afterthought...and this case isn't an exception in my humble opinion. And yes sir, I've been plugging away for a few hours here and there. I've got the base stern done and I think I'm almost ready to join the hull parts together. I'm just taking my time and making sure I don't miss anything or **** something up. Lots of pictures coming soon.Comment
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These days, some guy at a "chalkboard" thinks up all kinds of new things a submarine can do to earn its keep. Hence "engineering afterthought" will be the curse of every submarine. The Dry Dock Station they are adding to the sail seems to be the latest trendy rage in carrying Swimmer Delivery Vehicles.Comment
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So, onward with the stern section of the hull. As I think I mentioned before, is that I turfed the sectioned version of the part and have started from scratch. The simple reason being is that I didn’t like how the gradual blending looked from one section was to another. It just wasn’t consistent and if I stayed with it, it would have ended up being more work to fix than if I was to redo using a more tried and true and consistent method by using a lathe to shape the part coming off the pressure hull and then building the required superstructure on top of it.
The methodology is fairly similar to how I tackled the bow, in that I made a cardboard frame, filled with foam, and then put a 3/8” thick exoskeleton of body filler on top of the foam. The filler was then machined to shape on my wood lathe using the copy attachment. To use the attachment I, traced out the stern outline on paper, glued it to some ¼” thick plywood and then carefully cut it out to shape and finalizing with some fine block sanding. Final observations and conclusions on this copy attachment would say that it is good for rough work on hard filler substrates or for softer wood (the original purpose behind its design. At the end of the day, I found it wasn’t rigid enough for fine work and it had some slop in the moving mechanism…both of which are 100% required when doing high precision work of this type. I ended up making a female template from cardboard to check my shape of which I had to re-add filler and then sand down to final shape. The moral of the story? Buy a metal lathe that has the ability to hold and turn large diameters and lengths. My medium size lathe is just slightly too small to do the job.
Once the shape was completed, I added some wasabi to the end cone. This was to build the insertion part of the hull on which the pump-jet assembly will be glued to. Anyways because this is on the narrow end of the stern I was able to chuck this part into the metal lathe because it enables me to move the carriage out of the way of the wide part of the stern. Ooh do I ever appreciate using the metal lathe here. So much more sturdier. So much more accurate!
Pics in next post...also I upload tons more pics of the project on my facebook page under the astute albumComment
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Chapter 8
So, onward with the stern section of the hull. As I think I mentioned before, is that I turfed the sectioned version of the part and have started from scratch. The simple reason being is that I didn’t like how the gradual blending looked from one section was to another. It just wasn’t consistent and if I stayed with it, it would have ended up being more work to fix than if I was to redo using a more tried and true and consistent method by using a lathe to shape the part coming off the pressure hull and then building the required superstructure on top of it.
The methodology is fairly similar to how I tackled the bow, in that I made a cardboard frame, filled with foam, and then put a 3/8” thick exoskeleton of body filler on top of the foam. The filler was then machined to shape on my wood lathe using the copy attachment. To use the attachment I, traced out the stern outline on paper, glued it to some ¼” thick plywood and then carefully cut it out to shape and finalizing with some fine block sanding. Final observations and conclusions on this copy attachment would say that it is good for rough work on hard filler substrates or for softer wood (the original purpose behind its design. At the end of the day, I found it wasn’t rigid enough for fine work and it had some slop in the moving mechanism…both of which are 100% required when doing high precision work of this type. I ended up making a female template from cardboard to check my shape of which I had to re-add filler and then sand down to final shape. The moral of the story? Buy a metal lathe that has the ability to hold and turn large diameters and lengths. My medium size lathe is just slightly too small to do the job.
Once the shape was completed, I added some wasabi to the end cone. This was to build the insertion part of the hull on which the pump-jet assembly will be glued to. Anyways because this is on the narrow end of the stern I was able to chuck this part into the metal lathe because it enables me to move the carriage out of the way of the wide part of the stern. Ooh do I ever appreciate using the metal lathe here. So much more sturdier. So much more accurate!
Pics in next post...also I upload tons more pics of the project on my facebook page under the astute albumComment
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We’re already on chapter 9 now and it doesn’t seem like much has been accomplished yet. Oh well, slow and steady and we’ll get this sucker built right.
This time we put the hull sections together and give ourselves a basic foundation or canvas in which we can work some magic. The stern section isn’t really a big deal as I was able to machine flush surfaces on both stern and center sections for proper idiot proof mating. To hold these parts together I mixed some epoxy thickened with high density filler for good adhesion and let the parts cure.
Attaching the bow section to the center section was an entirely different and infinitely more complex process and this is because I wasn’t able to provide a machine-flush surface on the bow section due entirely to the nature of its shape. So, here is what I came up to counter the challenge:
First things first, I needed longitudinal reference marks depicting the top center, bottom centers, and port and starboard centers so this was done using paper wrapped around the hull and referenced at the top center reference line, the paper was removed and the length was divided into 4 sections. When wrapped around the hull again I could then mark out the reference quadrants. When done, the procedure was redone and checked mathematically just to ensure I had the accuracy I needed. There’s nothing worse than transferring details or trying to line up appendages to a model that has ****ed reference lines. How do I know this? Don’t ask please.
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Chapter 9
We’re already on chapter 9 now and it doesn’t seem like much has been accomplished yet. Oh well, slow and steady and we’ll get this sucker built right.
This time we put the hull sections together and give ourselves a basic foundation or canvas in which we can work some magic. The stern section isn’t really a big deal as I was able to machine flush surfaces on both stern and center sections for proper idiot proof mating. To hold these parts together I mixed some epoxy thickened with high density filler for good adhesion and let the parts cure.
Attaching the bow section to the center section was an entirely different and infinitely more complex process and this is because I wasn’t able to provide a machine-flush surface on the bow section due entirely to the nature of its shape. So, here is what I came up to counter the challenge:
First things first, I needed longitudinal reference marks depicting the top center, bottom centers, and port and starboard centers so this was done using paper wrapped around the hull and referenced at the top center reference line, the paper was removed and the length was divided into 4 sections. When wrapped around the hull again I could then mark out the reference quadrants. When done, the procedure was redone and checked mathematically just to ensure I had the accuracy I needed. There’s nothing worse than transferring details or trying to line up appendages to a model that has ****ed reference lines. How do I know this? Don’t ask please.
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Next, I made an alignment jig that would allow me to install the bow on the center section. I cut up two straight lengths of wood, screwed them together, marked out the longitudinal center lines and drilled holes that would be used for attaching to the hull and for holding adjustment jack screws.
Once attached to the hull (I’m not worried about screw holes because the center portion of the hull gets a layer of tiles added on top of it later on) I brad nailed an end piece to the two lengths of wood. This was my total length stopper.
The bow was placed within the alignment compartment and the jack screws were tightened onto the center line of the bow section until it was held firmly. I was then able to adjust the screws in order to adjust my center line so that it lined up with the hull. The front of the bow was aligned so that its dead center met the dead center of the alignment jig.
When I was happy how everything looked, I taped up the gap between bow and center section and poured expanding urethane foam to fill the large gap and adhere the two parts together. The foam will be ground back past the filler level and the gaps will be filled with auto filler and then blended for seamless part fairing.
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