SUCCESS!! With the new snorkel valve installed(not that there was anything wrong with the original one)and the brass tube connection sealed, I went thru 6 full submerge and surface cycles using the SAS pump and system. There were two small drops of water in the sub-driver rear dryspace. I think I can live with that!
One thing that I noticed and had to deal with is that the inside dimension of the inside of the sail may vary. Therefore, that has a direct bearing on whether or not the snorkle valve will seal or not everytime. Thats because the foam part of the valve, if there is too much space, between the walls of the sail and the foam body, it will allow the foam to get out of alignment where the rubber seal touches the brass upper tube. If the foam has too much room, there is nothing to hold it straight and it will touch the rubber pad, slightly off of the edge of it, allowing water to enter. Observe the pictures. So what I have done is build up the inside walls with "Plastruct" channel CAed to the wall. Great care must be taken because if you arnt careful you can cause to little space to be available and cause the valve to stick, and therefore.........leak.

One thing that I noticed and had to deal with is that the inside dimension of the inside of the sail may vary. Therefore, that has a direct bearing on whether or not the snorkle valve will seal or not everytime. Thats because the foam part of the valve, if there is too much space, between the walls of the sail and the foam body, it will allow the foam to get out of alignment where the rubber seal touches the brass upper tube. If the foam has too much room, there is nothing to hold it straight and it will touch the rubber pad, slightly off of the edge of it, allowing water to enter. Observe the pictures. So what I have done is build up the inside walls with "Plastruct" channel CAed to the wall. Great care must be taken because if you arnt careful you can cause to little space to be available and cause the valve to stick, and therefore.........leak.
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