Skipjack 1/72

[greenman407]

As you can see from the above pictures of the sail, the paint job came out well. Therefore, I didnt expect any problems painting the rest of it. I used the same routine. I washed it down using dish detergent. Then I wiped it down using Denatured alcohol. Then wiped it down with a tack rag and away we go. Except this time , instead of a Krylon product, I used a Rustoleum product. I could see that it didnt lay down smooth and developed a mottled look. So, after a couple of days curing time Ill get out the 320 paper and start sanding to get a smooth finish. I will then respray it. At anyrate, I kept going(not to be defeated). The lower part of the Z cut also is to be painted red. So, I taped it off and changed my routine a little bit. I wasnt sure what was the cause but thought that perhaps mold release was the possible culprit. So this time I wiped it down with Laquer thinner instead, a stronger solvant. Well it came out well, so...........................Maybe it was a mold release that the Rustoleum couldnt handle. At any rate.........onward ever onward. Dont worry, this ship is not sunk yet.

[alad61]

I agree Mark, rattle cans can be a bane I go a step further by checking what ingredients and propellant is used. If in doudt I leave thing a minimum of 72 hour to vapour out. I too ground away the 'button' behind the grates only I completely removed the plastic, all bar a small lip, behind the inlet grates just for extra flood and draining.

[greenman407]

The metal gratings go in place. The problem is that the little button that you glue these to makes them stand proud of the model. I took a Dremel with an end mill and ground them down somewhat so that they sit flush. Keep in mind that the gratings are flat and the hull is curved. Make sure that you rough up the back of them before gluing them in place.

[greenman407]

And another thing. Ive had paint out of the same can, crack and craze paint that you had just put down. For example. Black Baron poly-u paint. Takes a long time to dry. Pay attention to the notes about how long before recoat or between coats. The solvent will eat up the uncured paint from the first application.

[greenman407]

BEWARE! When selecting your rattlecan paints, keep in mind that just because a base color says, for instance, "Krylon", that doesnt mean that any "Krylon" clear will work on top of it. Make sure that the can labels are absolutely identical. Then and only then do some of your own testing, like take a piece of scrap and paint first the base color, and then after at least 48 hrs.,hit it with the clear. Ive had some wild crazing and cracking go on ,in the paint. Then youd have to sand it all down and start over again. Note several examples. In these pictures, these clears are NOT compatable with these base colors, even though its the same brand. Save yourself a lot of work and always test first.

[greenman407]

I decided to try the glue that I already had and using a toothpick I applied a little bit to two sides of the window sill on the sail, then put in the glass. Looks good. We should have some paint on the hull on Sunday.

[greenman407]

Got a little done today on the Gaps, also the sail was sprayed "Lusterless clear".Krylon Smoke Grey with lusterless overcoat.

[greenman407]

Thanks. Before I can paint the upper and lower hulls, I need to fill some gaps. Gaps at the rear next to the retainer screw, and at the Z cut where the upper mates up at the lower. Also where the cohesive seeped past where I wanted it to and bonded the upper to the lower. At that point I used a Dremel wheel to cut them apart. Rest assured, and be assured, youll never be able to tell, once the Evercoat and the sanding block gets after it. Just takes a little time. I dont like to rush it cus Ill mess it up, and then Ill have to do it over.

My painten finger is gettin itchy though.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

http://www.amazon.com/G-S-Hypo-Cement-X001/dp/B000YQDX86

Also, look for, 'bezel cement' Jeweler's use it.

M

[greenman407]

Never heard of it. Im going to Phils Hobby Shop on Wednesday. Ill ask about it.

[roedj]

Too late now, my sail haves are together. Can you give me an example of water-thin solvent cement? The plastic weld that I have is very water thin. Would that work for next time. Also, how do you polish the windows, using what product. Questions.....Questions

It's called canopy glue - used for cementing clear airplane canopies (well, duh...). Most LHS's of any size will have it.

Dan

[greenman407]

Too late now, my sail haves are together. Can you give me an example of water-thin solvent cement? The plastic weld that I have is very water thin. Would that work for next time. Also, how do you polish the windows, using what product. Questions.....Questions

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I glue them in before assembling the two sail halves (sometimes). Place a lens in place and smear on (from the outside) water-thin solvent cement letting run on and around the lens, insuring saturation of the bonding edges of lens and lens hole. Leave to dry then sand and polish clear inside and out. Assemble hull halves and move on.

M

[greenman407]

When installing the clear windows in the sail, what adhesive should be used? Airplane glue, plastic weld, and Ca can all mar the clear surface of the windows or cloud them. What is suggested?
Perhaps this clear glue in very small quantitys on a couple of corners. What are your suggestions? What have you done that has worked?

[greenman407]

A Rainy day, all day. So I couldnt paint. So I spent some of the day sanding and blending the joints on the Scamper. You know, the joints where I put on too much. Well, actually, I put on too much in some areas because of misalignment of the joints slightly when glueing things together. In order to fix it ,you have to blend it in ,over a wider area. SO THERE! Fortunately its Evercoat Easy Sand, not armour plate. It comes off pretty easy. Still waiting on Seaview parts. If they had come in, I wouldnt be doing this now.