Skipjack 1/72

[HvyCGN9]

Any luck with your repairs?

[greenman407]

In a few episodes previous to this I carved out some areas where the Evercoat and plastic were growing. After a month I revisited the hull and found more areas that have grown, almost like cancer. So, I carved out all of it. Starting fresh, I threw away all my old Evercoat and will order some fresh stuff tomorrow. Maybe that will skin this cat.

[greenman407]

Here we go with the drilling out by hand, the light atop the rudder. I dont have access to a drill press at the moment, so out comes the drill index and a hand drill. It came out almost perfect. That "aint nothin but good clean livin"right there. This white LED is 3mm and unfortunately has a flange on the bottom of it. So I had to drill a hole large enough for the flange to allow for recessing the bulb because its too tall. As you can see, Ill have to put some filler in there to cover that up.

[greenman407]

As you can see, they are very bright on 12 volts, but they are rated for 13 volts. At any rate they wont be so bright out in bright sunlight and also underwater. But they will give me points of reference when maneuvering underwater. If the sail rolls to starboard I will then see the red light on top and the white light(that was on top) on the side. Im also going to put one atop the rudder. Its in the works.

[Von Hilde]

They are looking good. Initially I wired my lights on the 1/24 type II using regular small Christmas tree LEDs that were 6vDC. I had intended on having their own indipendant powersupply and switch, external of the WTC in its own seperat box. I havent worked on that model for a year or so, but when I get back to it I believe I will opt to swap them out with the small ones. My rescue buoy is lit, but I have yet to build a reel and release mechanism. Those running lights on the full size Skippy are retractable, but I know that might have been a task, in that scale, to manipulate. You know the kind of people that hang out around here like the details, right down to the pelican poop on the Captain's hat.

[greenman407]

I got the LEDs installed in the sail. That will help with visibility underwater. If the sub gets lost then the LEDs will help locate it. I used a jewelers file of the square cross section variety. With care I was able to make an opening that is an interference fit with the rectangular shaped LEDs. That way they dont need to be glued. With the installed resistor they are good for 13 volts. Just right for the main power of 3s.

[greenman407]

What is the evercoat. Enamal (oil base) or acrylac enamal (keytone base) The bondo glazing putty may not be compatable. If not you have to put a coat of compatable primer between the bondo and finish coats. I have run into that problem doing auto body stuff, and thats usually the fix.

Im not sure what the Evercoat is but its the only thing I used in the joint.

[Von Hilde]

White, constant. If it's 360-degree light then it's an anchor light, only used in port or hanging off the hook.

M

International meritime law for all vessels. Might even apply to large models. I know that even when filming a movie, where they used a mock up sub and a structure that represented a mast of a ship sticking out of the water had to have the 360 white on them after dark, if they were left in the water after filming for the day.

[Von Hilde]

Well it happened again. The cracking and raising of the body filler happened again after it was finished and painted.....................AGAIN!!! Dad gummit and dag nabit. So I ground out the offending areas and will now wait a month for the vapors and solvents to evaporate and the plastic to good and cure before proceeding once again to fix it. I wonder if my Evercoat could be bad?
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What is the evercoat. Enamal (oil base) or acrylac enamal (keytone base) The bondo glazing putty may not be compatable. If not you have to put a coat of compatable primer between the bondo and finish coats. I have run into that problem doing auto body stuff, and thats usually the fix.

[greenman407]

Well it happened again. The cracking and raising of the body filler happened again after it was finished and painted.....................AGAIN!!! Dad gummit and dag nabit. So I ground out the offending areas and will now wait a month for the vapors and solvents to evaporate and the plastic to good and cure before proceeding once again to fix it. I wonder if my Evercoat could be bad?

[greenman407]

Thats it then. Ill order a light and drill out the rudder and hook it up along with the others. My plan is to operate the 4 lights off of the 3s LIPO

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The white light on top of the rudder on the Skipjack, does it flash or is it constant? Thanks Yall I ask because Im thinking about lighting it.

White, constant. If it's 360-degree light then it's an anchor light, only used in port or hanging off the hook.

M

[greenman407]

The white light on top of the rudder on the Skipjack, does it flash or is it constant? Thanks Yall I ask because Im thinking about lighting it.

[greenman407]

Here are a couple of closeups:

[greenman407]

Notice this picture. The marker light is inside this huge hulking fairing that will cause all kindsa drag. I think that there is one in the photo etch kit available from Caswell. I dont know if I want to do that. Also, with the snorkle valve taking up most of the room inside the sail in that area, I dont know if I could get LED lights in there. We will have to see.