Skipjack 1/72

[greenman407]

The suggested glue for this model is not an adhesive but a cohesive that melts the plastic together and gives a better bond than super glue(CA). Unfortunately the brush that comes with the bottle is a very slow means of applying it in my opinion. So what I did was use a piece of 3/32" brass tube as a straw. Stick it down in the bottle and put your finger over the top of the tube and then insert the tube down to where you want to apply it and then release your finger and Wallah. A good quantity will be released, depending on how deep you stuck it down into the bottle. You could probably use a coffee stirrer but youd have to try it first to see if this stuff melts the straw.

[greenman407]

When you are done it should look like this on one side, and this on the other side. Later on you can fill in the countersunk screw heads with a filler and sand it smooth.

[greenman407]

As you can probably tell, most of what I am recording here is to those who are new to this sort of thing. To all you Grizzled Salts out there who have been around the block a few times, please disregard my ramblings.He's on his favorite

[greenman407]

Now ,using your centerline again, hold the shock absorber up against the bulkhead and using a mechanical pencil with the lead extending out more than the usual, mark through the holes. Remove it and CAREFULLY
,drill out the 6 holes, perhaps starting with a 1/16" pilot bit and then move up to a 3/32" bit. Put it back on and make sure that the holes line up.
Now for the part that you should pay more than the usual attention to. Youll need to countersink the heads of the screws into the outside of the hull. Since most people dont have a countersink, you can use a common drill bit even though the angle of the cutting surfaces of the drill bit doesnt match the angle of the countersink heads of the screws. Itll still work, but great care must be taken or you will find yourself epoxying the holes up and trying again.Using a 3/16" drill bit and a small drill, just barely touch the drill bit to the surface of the hole. Then remove it and watch your progress and put the screw back in the hole to see when you have achieved a hole deep enough to bring the head even.
A word of warning. Over confidence will cause you to drill clean through before you know it. SLOW AND EASY. Keep in mind, this is soft plastic, not steel.

[greenman407]

Continuing on following Davids instructions(thank God) the cool spring loaded shock absorber goes in next. Keep in mind youll need to cut out an opening in the forward foundation in the middle, about a 1/2" wide all the way down to the top of the factory strip bulkhead. This for the reason of being able to take the shock absorber apart in the future without having to "dig" out the screw heads on the other side and mess up your paint job. You see here my trusty Dremel with right angle drive and cutter. First mark it out so that you have some lines to guide you. If you are really smart you could do this before you CAed the foundations down(DUH!)