My first RC sub... The Moebius Seaview

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I assume your using the same K&S 1/16" diameter brass rod I am. That stuff is made from Cartridge Brass. Indeed it can be annealed with heat (get to a red glow and let it cool naturally back to room temperature), but there is no need, the stuff will take a tight radius right-angle bend without fracture of significant weakening. However, if you have to bend it again at that bend point, anneal it, and you're good to go.

The CA is preferred to make up the Kli-Con brass connector to the push-rod. It gives you the option to later break the CA bond with a bit of heat on the connector. Sure, use the CA there.

David

[alad61]

Yes it is the K&S brass rod so I'll now bend away... I was sure the ca would be the go but my "common sense" has been out before, thanks for that.

[trout]

Reading through brought back memories of my jumping with the old T10 parachute

[alad61]

Ok it looks like my esc is fragged so I need a new one. So I was wondering is the viper 15 over kill for the Seaview sd kit?

Yeah maybe one day I'll leap out to thin air and float under a canopy again.

[Subculture]

If the Viper 15 fits, then no problem.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It won't. Foot-print is way to big.

David

[Subculture]

You'll have to revert to plan b then!

[alad61]

Plan "B"... "Read the specs on the equipment before hitting the panic button & assuming the worst" he says sheepishly. I found out through mtroniks web site tech downloads that the esc have a thermal overload set up. Combine that with a lipoguard that was wired on the wrong side of the power lead = DOH!!! I'm an idiot. Letting the esc cool down & puting the lipoguard in the chain correctly appears to have resolved the problem, however I'll monitor it to be sure.

With that resolved I decided to continue with completing the power plant last night. I hane now a working snort pump, esc & adf2 all dry dock tested & tuned. I had I deviated from my build process by sorting the power plant out but tonight it's back on track with finishing the forward plane pushrods and fitting the completed lower bow, fs bay and observation loung sub-assembly to the main hull.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Don't feel too bad about it, Alec.

I could fill volumes with the dumb-**** moves I've made in the shop over the years.

Seriously, thanks for detailing your goof-up in a public forum; good stuff for the rest of us to read:

1. We get an immediate sense of superiority as we bask in the knowledge that we're smarter than you, and

2. We are reminded to read the instructions when hooking up devices that are new to us.

(and the MTronik's guy wipes the bead of sweat accumulating over his brow as he followed this thread with mounting dread).

I got your replacement bow planes off last Thursday -- latter than I promised, but a pinched nerve has put me on my back-side, slowing things down around here to almost a stand-still. Sorry about that.

David

[alad61]

Thanks David.

I'm sorry to hear about the nerve. Now more than previously I can sympathize with any lower back issues I hope it goes away soon mate.

It's been an up n down couple of weeks but I reckon I have nailed it to a good start for the finish line. All the electronics are done n dusted and I've indexed the sub-driver. As I said I have installed the LPB system which I tried to mount the inlet through the bottom drain holes but I had issues getting the sd to sit level so I ended up running the inlet tube along the top and mounting it through the top of the ballast tank and then plugged it with copious amounts of rtv to stop any air leaks. I then ran more dry dock tests and testing getting the Tx tuned as best I can so I knew it all worked. I have also set and zeroed the ADF and I reckon I have now gone through more checks and rechecks than the crew of the shuttle before liftoff...

Last night I pulled a late one (actually early am) and glued in the lower bow assembly after I made and mounted all the push rods earlier in the evening.

I'm not sure it was entirely needed but I also drilled some small holes in the roof of the fs bay in the corners to help with freeing trapped air bubbles, I'm probably being overly anal about stuff like that.... Another thing I did was make a separate battery source for the leds. I took a 9v battery with a snap clip and inline switch wrapped the battery in electrical tape sealed the little push button switch in some heat shrink. But only heated the ends so the switch was sealed but free to operate. and then sealed it with liquid electrical tape and rtv silicon attached some Velcro to it and the back of the FS bay and bingo one removable power source. As it is only running 9 micro leds I reckon I'll get several god long missions before I need to slice of the tape and knock up a new one. I know it sounds crude but hey it works.


I also mounted the kit stands to a piece of Merbau decking which I will use as a stand on mission days as well as it will be a good display base when its painted & stained. For the observation lounge I used the decals that came with the pe set from Paragrafix. Normally would paint the detail but having used Paul's stuff before I had to use them now. I also used some of the pe furniture that came in the kit and they really do add the extra as well. After it was over coated with a clear I waited about a week and then gave it a good coat of dull-coat so now it should be nice and waterproof. I gotta say it looks good behind the windows.



I never get tired looking at bow shots of the Seaview...

This morning after the wife went to her rehearsals I tested the sub-driver in the tank (aka-bath tub) for leaks and basic operation. I have still to get the propellant for the emergency blow system but every thing else went off like a dream. I ran the motors at 3/4 forward throttle for five minutes and mixing that with reverse running too, whilst going through all the servo motions and running the vent and blow system several times too. I was actually surprised that the battery end was heavier then the motor end? Out of the water they don't seem that different... Nervously I waited to see any air bubbles escaping from where they shouldn't but after the five minutes not a one was to be seen. Just to make sure after it came out of the water I dried down the entire outside and the only water to be seen inside was in the ballast tank...Whoohoo!!! Somethings I will still add the the SD is some of those silca pillows that you get in medicine and vitamin bottles just as a precautionary measure. Today is a bit of a rest day before I start on the seam work around the underside of the forward hull. The replacement bow planes should be here in a couple of days so I may even wait till then.

Now David I do have a couple of questions for you though... I remember reading an article form you after the Moebius Seaview came out and you your subsequent RC version. In it you made a comment about setting the rear dive planes in neutral to compensate the forward lift of the manta fins.
Is that still now necessary with the adf installed and calibrated?
Can you give me an idea on how much lead weight I'll need?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You got it backwards, Alec:

The nose of the SEAVIEW drives the bow down as it travels forward. You need to 'center' the bow-stern plane control linkage so that there is about a 15-degree 'rise' angle on the stern planes. This bias is enough to counter the downward thrust at the bow -- a consequence of the bows 'shovel' shape.

Also (unless you got an old fittings kit), there are two fixed vanes in the fittings kit. These are installed in the nozzle ends of the propulsion tubes, each under a stern plane -- they give a downward push at the stern when going ahead, also counteracting the downward push at the bow.

Love the detailing in the bow. Paul does fine work. And so do you, pal.

David

[alad61]

Thanks for the compliment...

Ahh down not up... well it was a while ago I stumbled over and read it I just remembered the manta fins having some effect to forward movment. There were some extra bits in my fittings kit including some thin slightly curved pieces that resemble the rear dive planes which I have marked in the picture...So I'll have a look at fixing those, thanks again

But on the instructions I got there is no mention, image of them or even instruction on how they should be placed. So I just but them down to to some ring in parts or bits much like the rest.

[alad61]

David just to letting you know that the dive planes arrived in the mail today. So now I have, fitted, filled and sanded the bottom of the forward hull. If all goes well I should be setting the trim later this week before starting the final paint and weathering. My goal now is to have her official sea trials this easter!!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Excellent news, Alec. Keep us informed.

David

[alad61]

Last night I dry fitted& tested the bow planes and also did the final filling on the seams etc before the final prime coat the final prime coat. I may have to rethink my lighting batterypack position. Though it's not interfering with the b/planes push rods it is just a bit close for my liking. So I will most likley mount it in the FS bay plus that will leave room for a lttle camera I have my eye on down here.

David I have yet another question for you... I am getting about ten degrees throw on the bow planes is that ok or do they need more? I'm also keeping in mind that I don't want to toss the aft around like a manic dolphin.