First off, it's not a bearing it's a 1/16" pushrod seal. Second, the bubbles (good methodology finding the leak, by the way): are they originating around the seal body, or around the 1/16" pushrod itself?
Re-test with an eye to finding where the leak is. Is the leak around the union where the seal body mates with the motor bulkhead, or is the leak originating at the encapsulated O-ring that seats around the brass pushrod?
If the leak is around the seal body then the fix is easy: Put some RTV around the seal-motor bulkhead union and push it in with a finger as you take a suction on that hose. The partial vacuum you create within the SD will pull the RTV into the openings between seal and motor bulkhead that previously leaked air during your test.
If the leak is at the seals O-ring. You're screwed. Throw everything in the trash and take up knitting. Hell .... I got your money. It's over. Let that be a lesson to you! ...
... Naw, just kidding. Here's how to replace the pushrod seal:
The RTV securing the seal within the hole it fits within (the motor bulkhead) is relatively weak. You don't even have to take the pushrod out (in fact, I wish you wouldn't). Pull the motor bulkhead out of the cylinder enough to push an 1/8" metal rod onto the forward face of the offending seal, and push it aft. The bad seal will pop out of the motor bulkhead with little drama. You previously removed the magnetic coupler so you can slide the bum seal off the after end of the pushrod.
Take your replacement pushrod sea; slide it onto the after end of the pushrod; and, before you push it into its hole, run a bead of RTV around its base -- taking care not to get any of the goo onto the forward face -- we don't want RTV to come into contact with the pushrod!
Push the replacement seal into position and let things cure out a few hours. Re-test for watertight integrity.
You need parts, give me a jingle and I'll get them out Monday.
Onward!
David
Re-test with an eye to finding where the leak is. Is the leak around the union where the seal body mates with the motor bulkhead, or is the leak originating at the encapsulated O-ring that seats around the brass pushrod?
If the leak is around the seal body then the fix is easy: Put some RTV around the seal-motor bulkhead union and push it in with a finger as you take a suction on that hose. The partial vacuum you create within the SD will pull the RTV into the openings between seal and motor bulkhead that previously leaked air during your test.
If the leak is at the seals O-ring. You're screwed. Throw everything in the trash and take up knitting. Hell .... I got your money. It's over. Let that be a lesson to you! ...
... Naw, just kidding. Here's how to replace the pushrod seal:
The RTV securing the seal within the hole it fits within (the motor bulkhead) is relatively weak. You don't even have to take the pushrod out (in fact, I wish you wouldn't). Pull the motor bulkhead out of the cylinder enough to push an 1/8" metal rod onto the forward face of the offending seal, and push it aft. The bad seal will pop out of the motor bulkhead with little drama. You previously removed the magnetic coupler so you can slide the bum seal off the after end of the pushrod.
Take your replacement pushrod sea; slide it onto the after end of the pushrod; and, before you push it into its hole, run a bead of RTV around its base -- taking care not to get any of the goo onto the forward face -- we don't want RTV to come into contact with the pushrod!
Push the replacement seal into position and let things cure out a few hours. Re-test for watertight integrity.
You need parts, give me a jingle and I'll get them out Monday.
Onward!
David
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