Revell Gato 1/72 - Newbie no more Part duex

[beeryboats]

Success! I did not have enough travel either Tom. So I dug into the airplane hardware box and came up with an old servo horn. I bored out the center the same size as my rod and installed a ball end a little closer to the main rod. Then I had to adjust the end point travel on the radio and I seem to have it somewhat reliable and folding almost all the way up. I may redrill the control horn that came with the kit to move the ball inboard. My brain is way too tired to even attempt the auto level and lipo saver. I'll leave that for another night.

Jay

[trout]

Jay,
As far as pulling apart, I may do something like this....

The though is a clip that upside-down U shape would slid over the opposing magnet and prevent pulling apart yet still allow a quick disconnect system.
What do you think?
I thought I responded earlier, but I do not see it. Jay, I was going to test out moving the push rod closer to the pivot point on the bearing. Thank you for sharing! It helps. I still will need to re-do the retract location to get the maximum travel. A template would be helpful for placement.

[beeryboats]

That would work, but I would just glue another pair of magnets right on top of the others. My problem was at the bell crank that rotates on the rod that goes accross the hull above the drive shafts. I got it to work pretty well, but it has to be in the perfect spot and the planes perfectly level to be reliable. And I had to make a new shorter arm for the retract rod. I almost get full travel now. The only other option I could think of was to make the servo arm just as long as you can make it. I may still play around with that as you get better leverage the farther you can get from the center of rotation. Back in the dark ages of RC you had to mess around with servo arm length and control horn length to get you travel limits. Great fun, now we have computor radios with end point adjustments.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I see a lot of problem solving going on out there in SD land. Good work, guys.

David

[trout]

This weekend was a time for tackling issues.
The forward dive planes would not move to the full extent, the push rod would bow. The issue I found was that the ball and nylon socket caused issues and the throw was not enough. The ball and socket seemed to add to the friction and also not allow a straight transfer of power. The first thing I did was remove the ball and socket connector and replace it with a Z bend pushrod. I also drilled a 1/16” hole closer to the dive plane shafts. (if you look carefully you might see the Z bend installed above the original hole. This one change removed most of the loss of power to the dive planes. I still have some magnet shifting and will create a holder to help prevent that (crayon drawing in prior post).

I got the dive plane to open and retract. Moving the retract rocker arm up and slightly back helped get it close. I also used a longer arm on the servo and that seemed to make the difference. No photos of that yet...it is ugly. I used the slotted disk to hold the bar in place.
The rudder issue is solved. I made the flat area on the shaft even more flat and deeper so the set screw on the bell crank can get a firm hold. Reinstalled and tightened it up. Solved.

I removed the pins from the Tamiya and added wires to branch out. These wires will supply the power for the SNORT pumps and LiPo Guard. It was not difficult to back them out, with a pair of tweezers I squeezed the tabs that spring out to keep it from pulling out. Soldered the wires to attach the other devices and reinstalled. Metered the connection to verify that I was getting power to the new connections and I was. Issue solved.



One new issue. David, on the servo that comes with the WTC, I noticed it is not connected to the push rod. I had not noticed it before and I cannot seem to get it reconnected. What do I need to do?


Question. On one of your Cabal reports, and using the larger pump (PSC) (it may have been with a SUB ES2) you recommend cutting the red wire so power can not be fed back to the receiver. Does that need to be done with the mini pump with controller (MPC)? (As I think about this I would think not...., but I just have to make sure)

[trout]

Here is a photo of the additional connections that were added to the Tamiya connection. The wires that I added went to bullet connectors, then to the devices. The thinking is, if in the future I want to change or add equipment, it would be easier to work from the bullet connection.

Here is a shame picture. This is the slotted disk being used to pin the tube to the outside of the disk and the end of the slot. Before I had the tube free moving, but with the modification it does not. I made the opening on the rocker so it moves relatively easy. Every once in a while when I am opening or closing the bow planes, the magnet will separate and not completely close the planes. It needs just a smidgen of pull.... maybe a small rubber band? I do not know, just will have to ponder it more.

I went ahead and tackled the pushrod that slipped off of the control arm on the servo. I was envisioning taking the tube apart and I really was not feeling like getting that intimate with my WTC.
I had a long tweezer that was used for pickling metal and it was mostly long enough. Then there was the screw driver.....a little blue tape and two drivers later I had something that would work.

It came out easier than I thought.

Getting the servo back on the pushrod was a test in patience. Maybe a dozen or two tries, I got it on the rod. Now it was time to get the holder on. I placed a little CA on each screw while it was placed in the holder (learned from the video when placing the bell crank on the rudder - get the video [blink quickly and this will be a subliminal message]).
For the life of me I could not get it to line up or it would flip over. All I needed to do is get one screw started. Then it came to me......I blue taped the screw driver to the brass holder and carefully guided it to one hole. Task completed. Moved to second hole and before it was snug I adjusted the servo to be level to the rectangle recess that the arm can move into.

Tested the fix and it worked.
Now to work on the magnet holder........
David, I can not find the information about cutting the power line to the receiver for the pump, so unless you remember, I will just have to call it a bad dream.

[chulla]

Trout, I love that sub lol almost wrote ship. I can't wait till I get to that stage and build my own Gato. The question I have is from what im learning and I saw did u glue the two hulls together when u assembled it then started cutting it apart from there?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I don't get that last part, Trout. Re-word it, please. And good problem-solving on that servo work within the tight confines of the cylinder. What necessitated all that anyway?

David

[trout]

@chulla - Take a look here http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...vell-1-72-Gato This shows the beginning of my build. If you are intending to build the 1/72 Gato from Revell buy the Gato D&E DVD - 5 DVD Set from http://www.caswellplating.com/models/gato.html
It will save you many headaches, not all headaches......... The simple answer is yes, glue then cut.

@David If you mean about cutting the power wire to the receiver, I was referring to a prior post "Question. On one of your Cabal reports, and using the larger pump (PSC) (it may have been with a SUB ES2) you recommend cutting the red wire so power can not be fed back to the receiver. Does that need to be done with the mini pump with controller (MPC)? (As I think about this I would think not...., but I just have to make sure)" or do you mean reword the servo issue and why I needed it taken out? Earlier post I mentioned that I found the pushrod not connected to the arm of the servo. I had not noticed it earlier, but I did not play with it to notice it - so I am not sure what or why it was off the arm. Please let me know what I was clear as mud about and I will be glad to rework it!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

@chulla - Take a look here http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...vell-1-72-Gato This shows the beginning of my build. If you are intending to build the 1/72 Gato from Revell buy the Gato D&E DVD - 5 DVD Set from http://www.caswellplating.com/models/gato.html
It will save you many headaches, not all headaches......... The simple answer is yes, glue then cut.

@David If you mean about cutting the power wire to the receiver, I was referring to a prior post "Question. On one of your Cabal reports, and using the larger pump (PSC) (it may have been with a SUB ES2) you recommend cutting the red wire so power can not be fed back to the receiver. Does that need to be done with the mini pump with controller (MPC)? (As I think about this I would think not...., but I just have to make sure)" or do you mean reword the servo issue and why I needed it taken out? Earlier post I mentioned that I found the pushrod not connected to the arm of the servo. I had not noticed it earlier, but I did not play with it to notice it - so I am not sure what or why it was off the arm. Please let me know what I was clear as mud about and I will be glad to rework it!

That's right, you don't need to take the red 'hot' wire out of the loop with Kevin's little MPC because it is not feeding voltage back to the receiver bus -- no BEC provide. Lin's SUB ES2, on the other hand has a BEC and that's why the hot wire was removed in that set-up. Good question. Now know the reason why.

Wow, the pushrod off the ballast servo bell-crank, that's a first, How did I miss that!? Anyway, your getting in there with modified hand-tools was the way to achieve the fix, pretty much how I do it. You'll find a long handled set of hemostats a good investment. I got mine from Harbor Freight.

[trout]

David, I pray you never quit this business or get so fed up or burned out that you say "That's it, I am done with this". I really enjoy learning from you. Last night I was going through the Cabal reports you have written and gleaned even more information. I was re-reading the Kilo reports (long version) - liked the weathering info! The BEC on the SUB ES2 connects the dots for me, thank you. Thank you for your passion and wisdom.

[trout]

Wiring and stuffing a sausage.... they both apply to the Gato.

Last night I added the ADF2 and the LiPo to the madness and began attaching components to the engine room with zip ties and velcro.
The ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) was installed first. I slapped some velcro on it and set it up, but then I thought......I bet there is some heat generated by the ESC, maybe I won’t velcro it, but use a zip tie instead.

Added the LiPo Guard to the port side of the engine room using sticky velcro (has adhesive backing). Began running servo cables from the port side servos to the Sombra Labs receiver. In an effort to reduce the length I twisted the servo cables and thought that this might help reduce interference (nothing scientific to back that up it probably is as good as the aluminum hat I wear to prevent cosmic signals from controlling my brain - joking of course). It is interesting the weaving and testing to make sure there is no binding with the servos or the pushrods.

Moving to the starboard side the ADF2 is mounted with a piece of velcro to the servos. Again, tried to weave the wires in such a way as to not cause binding.

Then the transmitter is on the top between the servos. I did this because David recommended to someone not to put it below just in case water leaked in. You do not want it fried. Well I do not want to fry any of my electronics and so looking at other installs moved things higher up. The only thing that will be low are the mini pumps.

As a side note, before I went to bed, I checked to make sure it fit in the tube with this configuration (it did!) and tested servos. I am open to suggestions or if you have pictures that will help me make this nice and clean, I would love to see them.

[trout]

Did a water displacement test. Without overdoing the exactness (measuring the compressed air tank, tube running from engine room to battery compartment, float, and misc items) I estimate about 45 cubic inches of volume or .75 of a liter (.198 of a gallon) in the ballast tank.
My first test was one pump to see how long it would take to empty if I inverted it in a pot. It took about 220 seconds to empty over 3/4 of a gallon. The jug lifted itself up and caused the tube to come out. So my output was close to a liter a minute.
Second test was two pumps connected to a single intake. I did not have a T or Y air fittings. so I made one.

Connected both pumps to the fitting on the intake and ran tubing from the output to the opening of the inverted milk carton and terminated it with a piece of 1/8” brass tubing matching the SNORT tubing.

Then started up the pumps. It cut the time in half and maybe even slightly better than half. It was hard to say for sure because like the first experiment the jug moved (even while holding it) and caused one output to come out.
So, the conclusion is I think the additional pump will help without requiring a duplicate air intake and output. I suspect that if I minimize the silicon tubing and maximize the use of brass, I may get a performance boost (because the brass tubing has smaller walls and will allow a higher volume through and the brass is less likely to get pinched or collapse by pressure), but this is conjecture.
Also I went ahead and cut out the area in the sail to allow the brass tube to pass through. There are also some holes drilled on the inside of the bridge baffle allow air out.

I am thinking lights would be cool. Hmmmm.....I will put some thought to that.

[trout]

Been a little slow posting. My son was in a pinewood derby and I had to assist in the construction. (we think he placed in the top 3 - will not know until next month at the ceremony)
I am continuing to build the conning tower. Sometimes when building a model I get this silly little voice.....oooh try this. And of course I have to obey. The rear periscope shaft had to be modified. Learning about drilling exact holes like I did on the rudder,
[Here is an example:]

I somehow thought I could drill a 1/8” hole through rear periscope shaft to add a brass riser to it (I went with brass although an excellent suggestion for using an antenna was offered - I do not have any spare or old ones around).
So carefully and in tiny bits I was able to complete the drilling.


The joys in small accomplishments. The brass tube did not slide in nice and easy. I had to take a 1/8" brass tube and file/cut teeth into the end and I roughed up the outside with 120 grit sandpaper. Then spinning the rod as it went through helped bore out the path and open it up enough to allow the inserting of the tube.
Now, the real reason I did the additional tube. I wanted to add it as an air vent for diving, but if my testing of the SNORT system did not accurately measure air demands, I was piped and ready. I wonder if I can drill out the plastic periscope top?


Any help would be appreciated on running lights.
What running lights go on a WWII submarine? I get the Port (Red) and Starboard (Green). The instructions have one up on the front radar mast, is that a white light? There is one on the bow, white? and aft end, white also? any other lights?

[trout]

Went to do the air tightness test prior to see if there were any leaks. Removed the valve center. Bought a 3’ length of vinyl tubing. Heated the end over an open flame (stove) just enough to get it soft. Then pushed it up onto the end of the needle nose pliers to stretch it. I did this a couple of times until it fit on the valve threading.

Partially filled the bath tub and placed the WTC in. Blew gently into the vinyl tube and........

got bubbles. That is not good. It is coming out of the rudder push rod bearing. It needs to be replaced and I might as well do the difficult bearing that seems to get tighter after it sits awhile.
What is the best practices to remove the old bearing? Drill it out?
Then placing it back in, the original looks like a clearer silicon then the RTV, thoughts?
Thank you!