Revell Gato 1/72 - Newbie no more Part duex

[Scott T]

Good job Trout. Will make a cool desktop image.

[trout]

Yes sir! I am on it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Stop dicking around with the magic thinking machine and get back on the models, huh!?

[trout]

I played with a photo to see if I could give the illusion of my sub under the sea. Here is what I came up with.

Before you beat me up and point out the dive planes are not down, I know. This was just playing around.
Here is what it came from

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ooop's. Sorry, Boss (running for cover)

[Kazzer]

Find some fluffy art-supply house and purchase a color-wheel...

... and GET TO IT!

David

Available at CASWELL Inc And there's NOTHING fluffy about us ! DAMNED CHEEK!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Fair enough, Tom. We (Mike, Jim, and I) never presented a 'mission statement' as to the type postings we want to foster here. I thought it was self evident. R/c submarine stuff .... Duh!

But, you are right to seek better definition after Myron's blow-up. No one enjoyed that. And I wish he would have e-mailed you first before dropping his pants here. OK, mission statement, let's see ....

... keep talking like you're talking; mostly r/c submarine stuff, and when you stray a bit to make it personal, that's fine with me too. You are the most polite (another reason to hate you) person here, Tom. You don't go on and on about stupid ****. When you do stray from r/c submarines it is to encourage others or to point to other avenues of exploration to those who present an unresolved problem.

Short version: your posts, Tom, are a model of how I would like to see written intercourse practiced here. You (as you suggested) are one of the few who actually shows his work and covers what whent right as well as what went wrong -- powerful tools of teaching. Good, solid stuff. And, you're an accomplished model-builder, not some kit-assembling hack. Keep doing what you're doing, ALUMINUAUT-boy.

David

[Subculture]

I find a pair of digital vernier calipers more useful than a micrometer. Micrometers technically give a more accurate reading (less flex), but you won't need that level of precision in model work, unless you're working to tolerances of a thou or so. They available very cheaply these days, and are so much nicer to use than the old mechanical versions.

This book is pretty good- http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Lathe-Wor.../dp/1854862545

Practice is the main ingredient to good lathe work, but it pays to have a bit of background information in a booklet. A lathe is an excellent investment, even a small machine will allow to make your own endcaps and shaft seals, so it soon pays for itself.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

None. work out tool selection, set-up, RPM's, feed-rates, and material properties on your own. Use them safety glasses and inventory the digits at the end of the day. Get a micrometer and dial-indicator and Machinists surface-gauge. Is this guy with the Taig lathe kicking in a collet set?

David

[trout]

What books on using a lathe would you recommend - like for a Taig?

[Subculture]

You can use high speed steel or tungsten carbide (overkill, but if you have use them) cutting tools for turning brass. No lubricant needed. A normal side and face cutter will suffice for external tapers, size of tool depends on size of lathe really. For small model work you don't need anything over 1/4" (6mm)

To cut a taper there are a couple of ways. First way is to set-up an angle on the compound slide. That's quick and simple, but it can be difficult if you have a really long shallow taper like a gun barrel, as the slide only has a limited range of travel. So that will sometmes mean turning the the taper in two or more stages.

The second method involves setting up the machine to run between centres. You offset the tailstock (assuming you have a machine that allows this) to the required angle (you need to use a bit of trigonometry for that), then you just turn your piece same as you would a parallel bar. Rememebr to zero the tailstock afterwards. I only do that if I need something accurate. Wouldn't bother for a 'cosmetic' taper.

Always worth purchasing a small book on basic lathe practice, preferably one aimed at the model engineer, as some of the practices are rather different to industrial methods.

[Kazzer]

Get the Taig! Best machine for the money. Till then, strap your drill-motor to the bench and have at.

David

Assuming one has a similar lathe, how would you set it up to do something like a gun barrel in - say - brass? Speed, type of tool etc?

I am puzzled as to how to cut a taper on the barrel.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Soon sir, I will have a lathe in hand and running by the middle of December.

Get the Taig! Best machine for the money. Till then, strap your drill-motor to the bench and have at.

David

[trout]

Soon sir, I will have a lathe in hand and running by the middle of December.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Just turn the damned things from brass and be done with it!