British T-class

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It was the Big Honkin' 6.lb Battery that was causing the Roll problem. I replaced it with about 1 lb. of lead and she floated 'proud and tall'.
Now I need to find a Smaller 12.v that don't mind the wet, that will lay flat over the keel. I have some .8Ah SLAs, that weigh less than a pound, but that sure looks small in that large hull. I like my batteries to last all day on a charge. Maybe I can find some a little larger that won't cause the 'dead whale' act.:D
I don't like to parallel batteries, but 2 of the .8Ah size may be enough. That's about 1.6 lbs.

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I may have found the perfect battery to replace the big one. A 2.3Ah that is shaped very flat so it will be low in hull and only weighs 1.7 pounds.
It has strange contact terminals but that should be okay?

http://www.power-sonic.com/site/doc/prod/80.pdf

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I found another 12.V SLA battery that looks even better. (NP2-12)
It's shorter in length, has normal terminals, thin and 1.5 lbs, with 2.Ah. :)
Click Pics:

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I'm trying a different top-coat Paint on this model, since it's fiberglass. I found a Satin Hunter-green in Krylon's 'Fusion' line, in spray cans. I sprayed the tower and so far is looks like the correct choice. It completely covered in one coat, goes on smooth and dries quickly.
The T-class will look great in that color. :)

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Here's some pics of the pull/push brass wires that loop thru hull exterior. The other ends are looped around on/off and camera power switches. They are loose enough to be removed when WTC needs removing and the outer U shaped loop holds then firmly on switch levers.
I used this method on the Gato and it's working Great.:)
I wanted to take pictures of them Now since they will 'Completely Disappear' after painting hull. :D LOL
I'm hopeing those gaps at hull cover will disappear Also. ;) I still need more work there.

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I desided to use the NP2-12 SLA battery in the T-class. It's a great size, weight and terminal configuration for it and only cost about $10. each.
It should last several hours before discharge, unless I take it to the 'Submarine-Races'. :D LOL

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I now have the fore and aft dive-planes and the rudder linkages installed. Had to use the larger 5.mm diameter magnets again to prevent disconnects of the DPs, but there's plenty of space so that wasn't a problem. Everything fit well.
Since the SLA battery I'm now using has it's terminals on the end which is against a hull bulkhead, I had to cut a large rectangle hole in the bulkhead for the RTVed terminals, but that's good since it helps hold the battery in place and not let it shift.
The only major assembly challenge left to do now is triggers and linkages for the torpedo-launchers. I'll work on that some tomorrow.

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Here's some pics of my torpedo-launcher-trigger assembly:
The dive-plane linkage can be seen also. The DPs will be glued to the steel rod, out both sides.
The spring-loaded release pins can be seen, inside the assembly, in the last picture.
A magnet linkage connection could be used for the DPs but had to use ball/snap type connections to activate the triggers. Just too much spring-force for magnets.
I think I have a working design but won't know for sure until I get the torpedos completed.

(This assembly is pictured up-side down and fits on top of the bow)

[Kazzer]

Looks like you've been really busy Rick!

That must have taken quite some time to make that. Very innovative!

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Here's pics of the launcher assembly mounted on model and of the ball/snap linkage:
(the torpedo deactivation magnets (10.mm size) will be mounted under the small cover on top)
(The ball ends were mounted into loops bent into brass rods going into WTC and to servos)

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Well Drat! I can't find an Anchor the correct size and type. Suppose I'll have to make that also?
I'm thinking about sculpting it from epoxy-putty attached to a short piece of square brass tube, drilled with several holes, so putty will be attached well to the tube. Then tube will go thru hole in hull, glued on inside.
Anyone have a better solution for a 1/48th-scale WW2 British Anchor?

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I have another question about the T-class design.
There's a large groove on top center of the bow, that I can't figure out. I first thought it was for a tow-chain but then thought it may be for another anchor. But looking at this picture I'm thinking it had some other purpose, also? The chain appears to be attached to both sides of bow like a tow-chain but what's all the other stuff in the groove? Is there a wench line there?
Anyone have any ideas?
See pic:

[Kazzer]

I have another question about the T-class design.
There's a large groove on top center of the bow, that I can't figure out. I first thought it was for a tow-chain but then thought it may be for another anchor. But looking at this picture I'm thinking it had some other purpose, also? The chain appears to be attached to both sides of bow like a tow-chain but what's all the other stuff in the groove? Is there a wench line there?
Anyone have any ideas?
See pic:

I'm pretty sure its the anchor chain channel. If you look closely, you can see the chains laid in there.

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I'm pretty sure its the anchor chain channel. If you look closely, you can see the chains laid in there.

Guess it could be, but Sure looks strange for an anchor chain, tho?
Notice how the chain Ts at the forward end and is attached to both sides of hull ?
I'm starting to think it's a multi-purpose chain, mainly used for Towing of the sub,
in harbor, at dry-docks, or in case of engine failure or damage at sea.
And the groove is just for storage of chain and other dock-lines.

I'll just put in a T shaped chain and attach at sides of bow to simulate it.

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Well Drat! I can't find an Anchor the correct size and type. Suppose I'll have to make that also?
I'm thinking about sculpting it from epoxy-putty attached to a short piece of square brass tube, drilled with several holes, so putty will be attached well to the tube. Then tube will go thru hole in hull, glued on inside.
Anyone have a better solution for a 1/48th-scale WW2 British Anchor?

Any ideas for the Anchor?

Actually the chain across bow is the 'Monsters Eyebrows'! :D