I was doing a little trimming on it in the kiddie pool this afternoon and my Mom walked out and asked to see the props work. So I showed her. At that point I realized that it had a torque roll to it now that I got the new motors in it. There was no problem with it when I had the Speed 400s in it. Well I cant have any Torque roll thats for sure. I guess its happening because of the propeller size difference. One is bigger than the other with more blades.
So, I started adding more weight , right under the ballast tank. As a consequence, Ill need to add countering foam. So, Tomorrow Ill be concentrating on that.
Albacore continued
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Into the kiddie pool it went without the top on it so I could see if water was getting into the wrong places. I didnt like the number of Air bubbles appearing at the back of the Sub-driver and escaping to the surface. So I pulled it out to find too much water in the engine space. It came from the extra pushrod seal and the two brass tubes for the SAS not being sealed off. Also, my brilliant idea of not countersinking the ballast tank header screws was fine.....................except that I forgot to put some CA around them. After that was taken care of I put her back in da water. The trim is way off, so Ill have to deal with that next weekend. The good news is that at full throttle youd better hang on to it. Its got quite a pull on it in the pool. Also the stern planes are ROCK steady at all rpms, which is what I was trying to achieve. So next weekend the trim and the LED hookups.Leave a comment:
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The sail rudder is finished and tested. Works good. Daves use of a ADF-2 to control the sail rudders operation is probably the best way to go. The reason Im not doing it that way is because of the picked up vibrations that would cause it to flutter. As you know, I have gone to great lengths to reduce that to nil. I didnt want to have to do it again, in the same boat with another APC. As you have seen in the previous pictures, I use double Klikons on the sail rudder connection. I orient the one to north and the other one to south, causing it to be self-aligning. Also, I put the pushrod Z-bend on the top of the attachment arm at the rudder itself so that the weight of the pushrod is supported by the arm itself , so its not falling all over the place. It stays put. To hook it up , I just put the top hull in place and the magnets automatically snap it into place. But they are not so strong that its hard to dis-engage. Just lift off the top and it pops apart. So Ive started out with a large amount of rudder movement. We will see how it goes. I am filling the kiddie pool as Im writing this. Shortly we will do a check on trim.Leave a comment:
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Today I putted and poked around the shop....er....carport and made adjustments to the linkages and strengthened them. I reinstalled the stern plane that got the LED treatment. If youll note in the previously posted pictures I cut a groove in the bottom of the plane to run the wires in up to the plane mounting shaft(see below). From there I drilled a hole right in front of the bushing in the hull for that shaft and chamfered the edges so that the wires could be free to move but not be seen. then I ran the LED wires all the way up front. The next step will be the linkage for the sail rudder and adjusting submerged and surface trim.Last edited by greenman407; 06-07-2015, 05:45 PM.Leave a comment:
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If you need smaller LEDs there is a fellow in Germany selling micro SMD LEDs with long leads attached on Ebay, very good prices and shipping. Should not be too hard to water proof em' for sub use.... his ebay store is called "ledbaron" all sorts of sizes, colours,etc...
here are some I am using as nav lights on a 1/72 MH60S Knighthawk.....from memory these are the supersmall ones .8mm x 1mm I think.
Cheers BruceLast edited by HvyCGN9; 06-01-2015, 05:16 AM.Leave a comment:
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Mark,
When you get the LED installed and working, if you do not like the way it looks, you may want to frost the outside to diffract the light a bit out the sides. Another option is a watered down white coating. LED are designed to direct light out the dome end and not as much from the sides. It may not be necessary.Leave a comment:
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Today I got the linkages finalized and tested. Then I remembered the install of the LED into the stern plane. I knew it would be a challenge because it was nerve racking enough doing the Skipjack(scamper). The Albacores planes are thinner. But I was successful owing to two things:
(1) Ya gotta larn to hold ya mouth right when drilling and Dremeling. Thats very important!
(2) Good clean livin.
That was all I had time for today.Leave a comment:
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Today I finalized the Subdriver internals. After testing it for operations, results seem promising. No stern plane flutter at all. Thats critically important for a submarine thats going to run at speed. So far, so good. I ordered a new Dubro product. These aluminum ball link connectors. Ill install them tomorrow on the stern plane linkages. Then Ill need to remove the right hand upper stern plane and get it drilled and bored for install of LED.
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Here we are adapting the old linkages to the new and trimming areas in the upper hull that was not letting it come down all the way and mate up with the lower.Leave a comment:
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