Albacore continued

[greenman407]

Both deck hatches sat flush with the deck during phase-1. The forward hatch was recessed into the superstructure during phase-2 yard period. The after hatch always remained flush with the deck.

The anchor and stern lights are on the two above water stern control surfaces. I think you're looking at the aft capstain in this shot, Mark.

M

OH.................Yeah.....................I got one of those from you but I didnt know what it was. Problem solved.

[greenman407]

[greenman407]

OK......Todays progress. I needed, of course, to remove the old sail. I kept flexing it until it poped off. Thankfully, I didnt put a whole lot of CA on it last time so it came off fairly easy. At this point I realized how much smaller the new sail is compared to the kit supplied one. The new sail will literally fit up inside the old one. At anyrate, the "bump" or raised portion on the deck that helps you locate and secure the old sail would have to go. So with Dremel in hand I cut it out and sanded down the remnants.
Now to fill it in. I have some thick plastic sheet so I laid it over the hole and marked it from underneath. I cut it out and lightly tacked it in place flush with the top of the deck. Some good green masking tape over that, I then poured in some two part epoxy from beneath.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Both deck hatches sat flush with the deck during phase-1. The forward hatch was recessed into the superstructure during phase-2 yard period. The after hatch always remained flush with the deck.

The anchor and stern lights are on the two above water stern control surfaces. I think you're looking at the aft capstain in this shot, Mark.

M

[greenman407]

Dave, If youll notice in the pics, the phase IV Albacore appears to have the old style deck hatch in the rear but the recessed model in the front. Do you agree? If so, where can I get a recessed type. I guess I could scribe something in.
Also note the zoomed in picture. Is that the stern light there on the back of the superstructure or turtleback or whatever you call it instead of being on one of the rudder fins?

[greenman407]

thatll come in handy

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Note how I ran the two pushrods for the bow planes and dorsal heeling 'rudder'.

M

[greenman407]

Today was an Albacore day. I finally finished the prep work on the new sail and got some time in Airbrushing it and the rudder. By the way, I did use set screws to hold the rudder shaft in place and then covered them up with Evercoat. I am now working on the linkage setup for that rudder. Also I need to tape off the deadlight and paint it as well.
Also looking over how and where to cut the old cylinder for insertion of 3&1/2" dia. tube and related drive components.

[KevinMc]

Kevin, you have made that suggestion to me before, on the occasion of you sending me parts for my Oscar. I tried it and it worked well. Thanks for keeping tabs on me. CHEERS

Ha! In this case your memory is better than mine - I'd forgotten I made the suggestion before! Either way, I couldn't have you think I'm not paying attention. ;)

[greenman407]

Yeah! ... what Kevin just said:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30092[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]30093[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]30094[/ATTACH] You see the set-screw Kevin described placed on the bottom faces of the two stern planes here. The set-screws just as easily could have been put at the leading edge of the control surfaces where they would be better hidden. The stern plane operating shaft has a flat to engage the point of the set-screw preventing rotation of the operating shaft within its control surface once set. But, as Kevin pointed, out, this arrangement permits easy revoval and/or adjustment in the future. The CA trick is a one-trick-pony i.e, you want to change it ... break out the hammer and torch!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30095[/ATTACH] As you can turn the dorsel rudder well past its normal deflection, there's no problem working and hiding a set-screw at the leading edge.

But, in your case, that horse is out of the barn. Sorry, pal.

M

Not really. I havent glued it yet

[greenman407]

As an alternative to using CA to secure the control surface shafts have you considered tapping the holes and dropping in some SS set screws? I did this on my OSCAR and have never had any issues. The big advantage in my mind though is if I ever had to remove the shaft it should be an easy thing to do. YMMV

Kevin, you have made that suggestion to me before, on the occasion of you sending me parts for my Oscar. I tried it and it worked well. Thanks for keeping tabs on me. CHEERS

[Von Hilde]

In my case, some of the stuff I have was put together before screws were invented. I like the set screw idea in my type IX fittings kit. That's the new poney in the barn, that the old horse left. I'm wearing the old horses hide as a jacket.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yeah! ... what Kevin just said:

You see the set-screw Kevin described placed on the bottom faces of the two stern planes here. The set-screws just as easily could have been put at the leading edge of the control surfaces where they would be better hidden. The stern plane operating shaft has a flat to engage the point of the set-screw preventing rotation of the operating shaft within its control surface once set. But, as Kevin pointed, out, this arrangement permits easy revoval and/or adjustment in the future. The CA trick is a one-trick-pony i.e, you want to change it ... break out the hammer and torch!

As you can turn the dorsel rudder well past its normal deflection, there's no problem working and hiding a set-screw at the leading edge.

But, in your case, that horse is out of the barn. Sorry, pal.

M

[KevinMc]

As an alternative to using CA to secure the control surface shafts have you considered tapping the holes and dropping in some SS set screws? I did this on my OSCAR and have never had any issues. The big advantage in my mind though is if I ever had to remove the shaft it should be an easy thing to do. YMMV

[Von Hilde]

Mark, that trick of drilling the access holes for the CA, just made my day. I always had problems trying to get glue down the hole where you put the shaft without making a mess of things. That idea will work in several different applications, as well as repairs to hard to get at places. Much easier to cut a hole, fix the problem, and simply patch the hole. More than once, I have had to take thr model completely apart to fix some piddley thingamabob, that's criticle to the operation.