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The flood holes are done. And I've given up on the one side of the hull joint. I'm just making it worse try to make it better. And I do not use dynamite, too unstable, I use only C-4 plastic explosives.:wink:
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Jay,
plastic explosives, corny, but funny. Great job on that hull! Seam what seam?
Peace,
TomIf you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Well.... you should see the other side. Thanks for the drawing. It worked out well. All the holes are "semi-scale" in shape and pretty darn close to being in the correct spot. The little oblong holes were tough to get right, and it shows. And the larger holes that should be slightly oval are just round.Comment
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A stick and tissue sort of guy. I like you already!
My first love was free flight. I made four Nat's as a kid (1/2A gas, A-1 glider, Unlimited Rubber, and hand-launch glider were my competitive events). Ann Arbor Airfoiler's. **** Black was Prez when I was active.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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OK, ok!, damn computer!!!!
RICHARD black!
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Hi Jay:
Your doing great. Flood holes look good. Much better than mine. I need to get mine finished.
JackComment
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@%@#$%@^@%^^%&&*&^&&@$%^!!!!!!.....Who is John Galt?Comment
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I let my AMA lapse back in 67. I'm not a 'club' sort of guy ... I don't play at all well with others.
But I have seen the Internet version of the museum -- Wow! There are some good 'classic' r/c system displays out on the Web as well. My first r/c unit was a Lafayette single-tube transmitter, and a tone-only, single-tube receiver with rubber-band driven rudder escapement type actuator. The CB'ers made airborne use of that gear impossible so I stuck it in a boat.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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My favorite is the German glider controlled by a shotgun. It has a large speaker looking thing on both sides and you control it by shooting to the side of the aircraft. I don't have much use for a flying club either as I inherited a full size private field. All grass! I hate mowing the grass. Takes hours even on a large tractor.
JayComment
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Great strides in modeling today. The sub driver is installed and the deck holes have been filled. I had lots of misgivings about where to locate the s/d. Help came to my email inbox and it was decided that 10-1/2" aft the tip of the bow is where the s/d should start. That makes sense as to why you need to bevel the cap on the driver. I did have to remove the hull alignment pin under the driver to keep it somewhat level in the boat. And I put in the shims or blocks to keep the hull from flexing when you rubber band the driver inside. I ordered a few goodies from Caswell so I can build my drive shafts.Attached FilesComment
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David, if you're lurking out there, can you answer a question? Before I commit to drive shaft and push rod lengths, should I build the sub driver and see where the boat balances? Or is it that critical if you're going to add a bunch of lead and foam later? I guess I'm still a little unsure as far as balast tank location. Jack told me 10-1/2" from the bow, but that looks a lot farther forward than the one in the video.
Thanks,
JayComment
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Jay,
Don't over-think the CG issue. Here's what you do:
Stick the SD in there, get all the running gear and linkages worked out. Outfit the boat with the deck, sail, gun ... all the goodies that go on the operational boat (don't forget to stick the battery into the SD). Then find the boats CG. Now, start adding the fixed weight down low in the hull, arranged to get the boats CG at, or close to, the SD's ballast tank center. Then throw in the foam -- high, but not above the designed waterline initially.
It's during foam installation where you stick the boat in the water (leave the SD's ballast tank vent open) and establish submerged trim. You add/remove foam, and place it longitudinally and vertically (some of it will have to go above the surfaced waterline) until the boat floats, with a full ballast tank, with about one-inch of the sail sticking up into the air. You then empty the ballast tank and move selected amounts of foam above or below the surfaced waterline to get the boat to float AT the designed waterline.
Done.
We will never speak of this again!
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Ok David. I just centered the driver between the supports. I've attached a couple photos of my spring loaded drive shafts. I almost had a disaster on my hands using baking soda and ca as a filler, but I saved it. If I were to do it again, I would buy an extra pair of dog bones and just cut the one ball off and toss it and use two bones per shaft. So far all I've used is a ball point pen spring but I may need something stronger. I would also use aircraft aluminum rivets instead of trying to hammer over the brass rod. What a pain! I pretty much filled the smaller square tube with soda and ca and left the large tube empty. I over lapped about a quarter inch at the distance it would be in when installed. Then I made sure it would compress the extra amount to clear the Dumas couplers.
JayAttached FilesComment
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