Bronco 1:35 Type XXIII RC Build/ Conversion

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  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    The diesel exhaust gases passed through the diesel head valve into a muffler and from there into the exhasut tubes on port, that were hidden under the fairing, like David pointed out quite correctly... Click image for larger version

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by biggsgolf

    ok, I am ignorant....... is this the diesel exhaust? Click image for larger version

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    That's the diesel exhaust fairing. The exhaust proper is the 'finger' looking discharge, just below the waterline.

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  • biggsgolf
    replied
    Originally posted by goshawk823

    Anytime!
    (I’d do a little green scum around the diesel exhaust.)
    ok, I am ignorant....... is this the diesel exhaust? Click image for larger version

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  • goshawk823
    replied
    Originally posted by biggsgolf

    Thanks so much! The cold water makes so much sense, I had wondered about that. I am learning and appreciate the help!
    Anytime!
    (I’d do a little green scum around the diesel exhaust.)

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    (still working on that 'rust' tutorial -- tomorrow, hopefully).

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by goshawk823
    Something David taught me long ago when I built my OTW Type XXIII. The waterline scum line looks better when you use a fan blender brush with the scum color loaded onto it, and you draw downwards from the scum line and you do it in different lengths as you work your way across the hull.
    One other thing he taught me for this specific boat…most XXIIIs were operating in cold water areas. The scum line was probably more beige/brown with little green.

    Just adding something to consider as you finish your weathering.

    Hope that was OK to add onto what David is teaching…
    Hell yah, Sam! I don't have exclusive rights to any of this stuff. I am and always will be a student of the Craft; I learn as well as teach. Let's all (those of us with demonstrated skills) keep the ball in play!

    David

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  • biggsgolf
    replied
    Originally posted by goshawk823
    Something David taught me long ago when I built my OTW Type XXIII. The waterline scum line looks better when you use a fan blender brush with the scum color loaded onto it, and you draw downwards from the scum line and you do it in different lengths as you work your way across the hull.
    One other thing he taught me for this specific boat…most XXIIIs were operating in cold water areas. The scum line was probably more beige/brown with little green.

    Just adding something to consider as you finish your weathering.

    Hope that was OK to add onto what David is teaching…
    Thanks so much! The cold water makes so much sense, I had wondered about that. I am learning and appreciate the help!

    Leave a comment:


  • goshawk823
    replied
    Something David taught me long ago when I built my OTW Type XXIII. The waterline scum line looks better when you use a fan blender brush with the scum color loaded onto it, and you draw downwards from the scum line and you do it in different lengths as you work your way across the hull.
    One other thing he taught me for this specific boat…most XXIIIs were operating in cold water areas. The scum line was probably more beige/brown with little green.

    Just adding something to consider as you finish your weathering.

    Hope that was OK to add onto what David is teaching…

    Leave a comment:


  • biggsgolf
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    Fair enough, now that we've gotten the sword-play out of our systems.

    Let me prepare a brief tutorial on rusting effects. Should have it up here by the end of the day or tomorrow. But, in the interim, here's a few teaser photos:


















    David
    I eagerly await Sir

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by biggsgolf
    So, I need specifics on making authentic looking rust. I am not in the least an artist, I tried Bob's Abteilung 502 Industrial Earth and Brown Wash, could not get it to cure. Maybe use Abteilung Fast dry thinner? Current application is Tamiya Weathering Master Rust. Specifics would be appreciated!
    Fair enough, now that we've gotten the sword-play out of our systems.

    Let me prepare a brief tutorial on rusting effects. Should have it up here by the end of the day or tomorrow. But, in the interim, here's a few teaser photos:


















    David

    Leave a comment:


  • biggsgolf
    replied
    So, I need specifics on making authentic looking rust. I am not in the least an artist, I tried Bob's Abteilung 502 Industrial Earth and Brown Wash, could not get it to cure. Maybe use Abteilung Fast dry thinner? Current application is Tamiya Weathering Master Rust. Specifics would be appreciated!

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Touche, sir

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  • biggsgolf
    replied

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  • Das Boot
    replied
    David, down boy.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by biggsgolf
    Weathering Progress, lower hull below the algae next
    Rust is over done here.

    What the hell were you thinking?????

    And rust does not bend like 'a reed in the wind'!

    Rust runs as a consequence of gravity, not the whims of the fluid it travels through.

    Your running rust extends to far from the limber holes and other sources. Rust colors are not simple variations of orange either -- study actual rusted items. Do more study of prototypes before you sling paint and other mediums at your poor model.

    You have committed War Crimes here.

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    And... FOR THE LOVE OF GOD ALLMIGHTY! ... don't commit to the display till you've practiced medium types and application techniques on a test-article (discarded or unused model).

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    Do it over. And this time get it right!



    David
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