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Oto's site shows the side profile of the model with a stubby 90mm (3.5") cylinder in there. OAL at that diameter is only 15", so no room for a ballast system.
I'd go with a 300 Series SubDriver, single shaft. Those boats didn't have a tremendous amount of freeboard. I'm guessing at something like a 7 or 8 inch tank for adequate buoyancy.
I've never built one, so the hull profile could limit the cylinder length. It may not be a bad idea to hold off on a cylinder order until you have the boat in hand (printed and assembled) in order to know exactly what you have to work with.
Need to see how this thing prints up. The hull form on UB1’s cuts up from the midsection. Longer cylinders are possible higher in the hul, but the prop shaft offset will be an issue.
The ballast tank should not need to be too big. I have a 7” x 4.25” dia on my R-Class, which is much larger.
You can get some idea of ballast volume from a 1/32 kit supplied by Norbert Bruggen, which is about 420ml via trimmed down Engel piston tank, with the caveat that the boat is a dryhull design, so probably a bit more freeboard than a wet-hulled boat with a separate module, although that might be mopped up by the usually higher material thickness of a 3d print versus a composite hull, plus the slightly larger scale of the printed UB1.
I think Bob's answer suggests a commercial option for a cylinder with ballast system from ND is unlikely, so unless Oto has a suggestion you'll have to build or adapt a cylinder of your own. But a ballast system isn't out of the question if you package the equipment carefully.
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