The Project has Begun: Revell 1/72 Gato build

[Qwenther]

Captains log, June 19th, 2023.
The project begins. I've acquired a kit for the Revell Gato class submarine and now it's time to build her. I've always wanted an rc submarine, now it's time to add one to my ever growing RC collection. I've decided to go all out with the details despite it being my first sub build. Now, I'm no newbie when it comes to building models, but I admit this will likely be a fun challenge. I have started the hull basic assembly, partially following the video set. I'm assembling my own customized WTC, as I will be implementing a lot of feature namely torpedo tubes and running lights. I have managed to make my own launchers thanks to the reference material found on here. I look forward to building and sailing this magnificent and historic vessel. I hope to be able to gain from the wisdom and experience of the fellow builders and sailors here.

[redboat219]

I will be implementing a lot of feature namely torpedo tubes and running lights.

Prioritize building the hull and WTC first and making the boat functional then customize.

[Qwenther]

Prioritize building the hull and WTC first and making the boat functional then customize.

I admit I tend to work on extraneous stuff when I only have a few minutes or I'm waiting on parts to arrive. I do have 2 questions I need answers to though. 1, what is the common I.D. for the 2.5" diameter subdriver? Is it 2 1/4" or 2 3/8" ID. And 2, how much begging will I have to do to get my hands on this.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I admit I tend to work on extraneous stuff when I only have a few minutes or I'm waiting on parts to arrive. I do have 2 questions I need answers to though. 1, what is the common I.D. for the 2.5" diameter subdriver? Is it 2 1/4" or 2 3/8" ID. And 2, how much begging will I have to do to get my hands on this.

1. 2 3/8"

2. Beg Bob Martin. He has all the tooling needed to produce that fittings kit.

David

[redboat219]

Several modelers have successful RCed the Gato with DIY/scratchbuilt parts.

https://youtu.be/mQgM8ewF9jg

[redboat219]

http://www.cliffhangershideout.com/Gato/Gato-log-1.html

[redboat219]

[Qwenther]

Several modelers have successful RCed the Gato with DIY/scratchbuilt parts.

https://youtu.be/mQgM8ewF9jg

I've looked at a lot of these references and have found some useful info from them, especially the part of replacing the bow plane axle and control rods with brass. I thought about doing that anyway. I also intend to use as much of the original model as possible. That said there are still a few parts of the conversion kit that would still be useful, about half the resin cast parts(Parts "A-I,K"). So, I'm still gonna beg, in which case, how? Where do I go to do the grovelling? Also. I need gears. I've found through a lot of reading of HWSNBN's posts that the gearbox on the motor bulkhead has a 3:1 gear ratio using a 36t spur gear that looks to be about 3/4" OD ish and a 12t pinion on the motor shaft. He's said he got em from stock drive, and it looks like he uses those spur gears for almost everything. I know it's been asked but is there a part# for the spurs? I've read all the posts and pdf refs from stock drive and cannot find em. I'm using cad to mock up all the bulkheads to 3d print and having the gear sizes would help. That and I'll need the gears in the long run anyway, and for more than just the gearbox. Or, would it be wiser to go to direct drive? I'm going to use brushless motors about the same size as the original brushed ones anyway.

[JohnDora]

I'm building a Gato, started in May this year. Please what capacity is your ballast tank? I'm using an R&R one that fits my Arkmodel VIIc U-boat, it has about 530g capacity, extended with auxiliary tanks as it was too small for the VIIc..

[RCSubGuy]

The cylinders I spec for both the Ark VII and the Gato is 2.5" (64mm) diameter and 10" (25cm) in length. Approximately 1000ml capacity.

[JohnDora]

Thanks Bob, I had to add two 2.5 cm dia additional cylinders within the model ballast tanks for my Arkmodel VIIc to give additional ballast. For the Gato, using the same WTC, I'll add a 6 cm or so dia additional tank in front of the WTC. With the VIIc it's been a success - the water pipe flows 'in series' thru' the two tubes. Both are connected by a 'u tube' that goes beneath the WTC - this avoids air locks.

[Qwenther]

The cylinders I spec for both the Ark VII and the Gato is 2.5" (64mm) diameter and 10" (25cm) in length. Approximately 1000ml capacity.

That's a useful piece of info, thanks. I've been pondering that same question. I was gonna thinking of going for a full 12" tank, but 10" makes my life easier and leaves more room for the battery and other electronics.

[JohnDora]

10” x 2.5” external is about 25cm x 6cm dia internal or about 700 g?

[Qwenther]

Finally, I have something that looks like progress. I've accumulated a lot of the components going into the wtc. And after many nights of head scratch, impatiently wait on machines, and throwing things, I have at least a few near finished wtc bulkheads, and some of the valves and tanks that go in it. The SAS float valve and the emergency blow tank are still a wip. I've found in my stash of stuff an old 72mhz Eclipse 7 Transmitter that I could use for this build. With 7 channels to play with I should have enough for all the "bells and whistles".

[RCSubGuy]

10” x 2.5” external is about 25cm x 6cm dia internal or about 700 g?

1/16" wall yields 2.375" ID.
44.3 cubic inches or 725g

Yes, my bad.