Scratch build Skipjack-conversion : Project 1710 Beluga in 1/63 scale

[JHapprich]

As mentioned, next step was to grind back all the excess paint prior to adding the final hull color:

[JHapprich]

It never had a twin prop. It had most likely the same prop all the time(your drydock-shot compared to mine; it had the round-tip prop when it was scrapped).

[redboat219]

Bob Martin recently showed a 1/96th model of the Beluga with contrarotating props https://youtu.be/8s1VTzMaj6c?si=l247pEzblGV2VSdz
but photos from the russian site show only a single prop

[JHapprich]

Some sort of sensors for the polymer flow around the hull.

Anyone able to translate?

https://forums.airbase.ru/2011/04/t81925--podvodnaya-lodka-proekta-1710.html

[redboat219]

What are those structures ahead of the stern planes?

[JHapprich]

Sure, Mr. Merrymerryman!

Just dug out some more:





Last picture showing her in active status in 1990! Very happy about that drydock picture!







JÖRG S. HAPPRICH / JHapprich

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sanding is next on the list ;-) this is not the final paint scheme.

Cutting back the rust and and streaking will follow prior to adding last coats of grey and red.

What a handsome boat! Do her proud, JHappirich.

[JHapprich]

Sanding is next on the list ;-) this is not the final paint scheme.

Cutting back the rust and and streaking will follow prior to adding last coats of grey and red.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You've broken the Cardenal Rule of 'weathering': Less is More.

So fare you're applying too ****ing much!

Back off!

Sand and repaint to the base colors. Let's try this again:

First, make some cardboard stick figures of a guy to the scale of your model. Sit his pulp ass down, and over some coffee have a heart-to-heart: Ask him just how long streaking and bird **** will run down vertical and rounded surfaces. While you're at it, ask that little guy what above waterline portions of his boat he can't get at to chip, grind, prim and paint -- he's crew, so that's his job (and if he wants to get laid in town he has to do a fair job of it, so he's motivated to keep the out-of-water portions of his ride looking good for the Deck Boss, Captain and Commodore).

And for God's sake don't practice on that model new painting and weathering application techniques and mediums!! Break out an unused hull (I know you have one or two hiding in a corner somewhere there) and practice painting and weathering on that -- use it as a 'test mule'. **** up on the test mule till you refine your methods and materials -- only then move to your poor BALUGA and dirty it up a bit.

Don't make me come over there!!!

LESS IS MORE!!!!!!.......

[JHapprich]

More detail work: rubbing rust into the edges, scum line( not happy with that yet!) Bird-poo and so on. Most important tools:fingers and toothbrush. Almost there and enough for today!

[JHapprich]

Tried wiping in aluminum oil paint to the sonar window and the conning railing

[JHapprich]

More paint work done:

All the gaps from the spray paint were closed with said paint and the airbrush. Added a clean white waterline afterwards, which can be found at least in early shots of S-533. After curing, mixed up a basic scum shade and sprayed over, covering the waterline. After removing of the tape, i cleaned up the waterline with 1200' grit paper to make it visible, though wheatered, again. Some cleanup on the surface black, too. Black portion will receive final paint after some sanding of foulty spots and highlighting the scribework with oil paint. Final scum line and some rust will follow, too. So far, i like it!

[JHapprich]

In order to lower someones ,unnamed, blood-pressure, some more "decent" model building:

Took the beluga from the shelf and will finally paint it.

The hull has been prepared with brushing, soap-washing and rinsing, rinsing with alcohol and applying grey primer. Afterwards, spraying the first coats of lower hull red and upper hull black to check for proper look and to detect the (numerous) spots on the hull that need cleanup, filling and detailing.Figured some scribelines needing to be cut deeper. All done with rattlecans, the "real" paintjob will be performed with thinned colors and the Airbrush.

[JHapprich]

Update: The antenna has been coated with epoxy resin.



The driveshaft has been installed. A sterntube with bearings on both ends was glued into the stern cone, ending just after the plane's axis. As the propeller will be permanently fixed to the primary shaft, slots were cut into the underside of the stern to acces the locking collar and the set screw of the universal joint. An intermediate shaft then connects the prop to the engine shaft.



By employing the ZB-1, installation of the dive cylinder was performed similarly to the setup at the MIKE model. However this time, i used a brass standoff spacer to screw down the cradle from PP tube. A socket from resin and glass was formed around it. The stern endcap is secured by two bolts through L-profiles, which were glued in place with an epoxy-carbon powder composite.


The application of adfitional carbon powder prevented the composite from flowing off the brass bars.

For the pushrods on this and future models, i made an universal master to cast magnetic couplers, based on an old pen's tip. The mold was made from silicone putty. The casting body is large enough to implement a 2mm bore locking collar with set screw into the resin (if needed) as well as using spacers of different diameter for both thicker and thinner neodym magnets. The first urethane part looks promising!



Jörg

[JHapprich]

Thank you both! no, this is not my workbench (using two and both are messy) in those last pictures but our kitchentable! That antenna installation is my approch to avoid signal blocking from the carbon hull. We'll see how much of the details are still visible after final priming. I expect more re-scribing. Personally, the propeller is the part i am most happy about. Unbelievable, that not so long ago that hull lay dorment in shards in a box!

Jörg